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Dash Gauge Buildup

Thank you for the compliment:D. It took alot of cutting, but fits like a glove.
Yes, those are the 3 3/4" w/ 2 1/16" rounding out the team. I have to cut a new right side panel for the ARB, compressor & access switches. I let the tip of my air saw jump out and do a dance on it:doah:.
Duplicolor bedliner in a can should give you the perfect texture and sprays on nice. $7-$8 at wally world.
Dustin

Thanks for the tip... I figured bedliner or a rolled finish would do the trick.
 
here is mine from 5 years ago, Honestly im gonna redo it. Ive since then got rid of the heater so the controls are going bye bye, ditching the cd/radio deck, I use an ipod anyway and hate the radio (nothing in english) so it will be directly wired to an amp behind the seat. Im going to incorporate the summit heater switch and 3 switches that are currently on the bottom of the dash to the spot where the heater controls are at. I also want indicator lights such as brake and hi-beam. I did a painless wiring harness and guages to the truck because i figuered it would be a pita to reuse my burnt out stock harness, plus it made it easier to wire up the new guages with a new harness.

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gauge cluster

Great reading,
My question is before I try to Identifie the leads to the gauges using the the circuit board, has someone all ready did this? There is numbers on the Instrument dash wiring plug. Can someone help?
 
Great reading,
My question is before I try to Identifie the leads to the gauges using the the circuit board, has someone all ready did this? There is numbers on the Instrument dash wiring plug. Can someone help?

Well the best way is to start with a factory wiring manual, but I think I saw a listing of the color codes on here at some point. Trying searching this forum, as well as the Garage.

Oh... and I noticed that was your first post. Welcome to the site! :thumb:
 
Gauge Buildup

Jonrpick, Thanks for the high five.
I will try the search. I'M STARTING WITH SOMEONES NIGHTMARE AND IT'S ALL NEW TO ME.
thanks
Dan
 
ok i went to test fit my gauge in since both things are upstairs and i kind of feel like starting on the work, its pretty warm here, 31 degrees currently, usually its like 16 degrees!

anywheres any tips for cutting the narrow back piece? anyone have a measurement on how much i should cut away depth wise? should i use a dremel?

pics for the people who want to do this one day. cell pics since i can't find my camera.

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with a dremel, some dainty cutting and 2 1/16 gauges you can get them to fit down in there nice... been down quite a few times around here...

I couldn't do mine that way as I run the Pro Comps which are 2 5/8... Well, that and I wanted something different than anyone else...
 
Take a Look

Well I just got done doing this to my dash, take a look at the thread in my signature... :D
 
after studying for my midterms (which i should be doing currently) since i haven't studied in years, since im still in h.s... idk if that sentence makes sense im on a sugar high from all the mtn. dew i drink

anyways i may get a little out of hand with the dremel and see what happens!
 
okay so here is a little update..i used a dremel and got a little trigger happy and had some fun..

for anyone reading this as a guide to do this in the future there is lip on the back where it begins to get skinnier, go about 1/8th of an inch above that and you shuold be good. there are little supports you can just trim those.

:eek1:
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im changing all the bulbs, i yanked the gauges out of the 3 gauge cluster. and now i got a couple questions...
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the circuit board behind this, what can i do about it and will there be any issues with leaving it there? what should i do to run the gauges since there aren't holes, just use a hole saw or dremel it, i mean it could be just enough so the gauge sits right...:p:

i have a temp gauge that has the coil and runs into the block of the motor...the nut on the back of the gauge does nothing if u take it off, so how can i take it off so i can put it into the cluster? will anything leak if i disconnect it from the block; i'd prefer not to mess with it. :rolleyes:

also, for you that want a laugh, i took the oil pressure gauge out and never put it back on and i went to park it from where i had it (see pic above) and i look down and i'm like EXPLETIVE EXPLETIVE EXPLETIVE i leaked a nice amount of oil all over my cab on the floor, at least there isn't carpet! i was pissed i was that dumb, i dropped about 1/16 if not a 1/32 of a quart so no concern there but wow i'm stupid..is it possible to piss the oil out of the motor completely that way? i cleaned it up before that pic but i took one anyways :haha::mad:

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where do you want me to start?
hahaha

no really though, that circuit thing behind the gauges..can it be removed or cut or will that be a really bad idea?

how can i disconnect my temp gauge since it doesn't unbolt at the gauge and i don't want go through the whole firewall to run the damn thing..

and when looking at the wiring the P.O. had one wire running for the lights and spliced it to run the three, can i add a fourth or should i look at the leading wire and figure out what gauge wire it is and post up here for your opinions?

and for the gauges to sit correctly in the truck (not the panel, bc they fit fine after dremeling it) do i need to use the dremel again or will there be enough space?
 
where do you want me to start?
hahaha

no really though, that circuit thing behind the gauges..can it be removed or cut or will that be a really bad idea?

i think you can usually fit the gauges inside the plastic housing in front of the circuit board... I went straight custom so I haven't played with that... do NOT cut the printed circuit board..

how can i disconnect my temp gauge since it doesn't unbolt at the gauge and i don't want go through the whole firewall to run the damn thing..

i'm assuming this is a mechanical gauge.. yes, you cannot take the gauge apart. you need to pull the sender out, pull it thru the firewall, and reinstall gauge.. you will lose antifreeze.. drain off your rad at the petcock...

and when looking at the wiring the P.O. had one wire running for the lights and spliced it to run the three, can i add a fourth or should i look at the leading wire and figure out what gauge wire it is and post up here for your opinions?

well, everything is a circuit.. if you just keep adding stuff, you'll start popping fuses... all that being said, a few gauge lights draw minimal... but yes, it would be best to trace the circuits out and see whats fused where, and correct, run new feeds where necessary...

and for the gauges to sit correctly in the truck (not the panel, bc they fit fine after dremeling it) do i need to use the dremel again or will there be enough space?

see first reply...

hope that helps..
 
thanks man i appreciate it...i'll look and see what i come up with the wire thickness..i bought 16 g. wire bc i have to re-wire the temp gauge since it was burnt in the fire i had 2 summers ago...

my fuse box is pretty empty underneath, i bet i could run all the gauges on their own fuse if i wanted to


EDIT: i bought some 10-12 gauge o ring wire connecter things...thats okay to use to wire the gauge directly to the batt. right? if not well i can use them for whenever i need them...the wire is 16g like previously noted..
 
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EDIT: i bought some 10-12 gauge o ring wire connecter things...thats okay to use to wire the gauge directly to the batt. right? if not well i can use them for whenever i need them...the wire is 16g like previously noted..

I wouldn't run direct to the battery: A) you should have it switched with the key B) a terminal block is much better than a mass of terminals on your battery post C) - actually should have listed this one first - it needs to be fused.

16 awg should be fine for gages. Are you talking about weather pack style connectors? If so, make sure you crimp the pins correctly (or crimp and solder if you are a belt and suspenders guy like me :D ). You may have trouble getting a good crimp with 16awg wires and 10-12 awg pins.
 

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