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Dirtroadoutlaw's '86 M1009

Have you tried Rock Auto.
A feind got a 454 fly wheel from them for 100.00
Maybe they could sell you one for a 6.2.
 
Have you tried Rock Auto.
A feind got a 454 fly wheel from them for 100.00
Maybe they could sell you one for a 6.2.

Yeah but shipping costs turned it off. They actually have the same make, same part # flywheel as this wrong one listed for this application. Freak'n nuts!

I pulled the NAPPY flywheel for return in the AM. The correct one should be at O'Really by 7:30AM. Situation should be handled.

After Google search, turns out I'm not the first victim of this screw-up with this CHINESE brand. It looks like they made a batch of these for 6.2's but pressed the wrong gears on them. That means that there's a colossal screw-up and folks mixing internal/external balance parts. Not good!

NAPPY didn't have another brand or whatever so I decided to go with the O'Really part. Fingers crossed!
 
Thanks for the input yesterday, fellas. I confirmed the 6.2/6.5 flywheels are 139t and use a 10t starter drive gear. Kind-of a kicker but I'm told by my starter/alternator guy that you can't get a different drive gear for the 6.2/6.5 starters as well. That is a good thing since it might prevent some yahoo from actually using the wrong balance flywheel. Now, as to the gas starter fitting on the diesel, I have no idea but no longer care.

I'll go return the wrong flywheel and get the right one sometime today and hopefully get this hiccup behind me.
 
lol, lets go back to post #3 for a moment :D

can you go over this process? I'd love to clean up my '68 floor and put some black POR15 on it. I just don't have the time or patience to use a whole days elbow grease on it.
 
lol, lets go back to post #3 for a moment :D

can you go over this process? I'd love to clean up my '68 floor and put some black POR15 on it. I just don't have the time or patience to use a whole days elbow grease on it.
There's not much to it. Sanding & brushing the original gunk off, blowing all the dust & debris out, put the acid (The Works, Vani-Sol) on spreading it around with a paint brush until the rust is gone, pour baking soda everywhere the acid was, sweep all that up for disposal, mix up iron phosphate solution & rinse. I did one side at a time & it took an entire summer's day.

Dry very, very well (I used a propane torch), scuff it up & blow it off again. Apply high-zinc primer, top-coat however you like.

Hope that helps.
 
Well, the correct flywheel is in the back seat of the tow pig. Hope to get it installed after @&#$. I did, however, manage to whack off at @&#$ today but not what it sounds like. I did the necessary trimming of the auto brake pedal for use with the manual setup. Also, I removed all the cruise control & other garb from the pedal assembly. I'll leave the broken clutch safety switch in place for now until I get everything installed because, otherwise, there's no way I would be able to keep up with the screw that holds it on.

One more thing; I knocked the upper two studs out of the bracket that go through the firewall and opened the holes to the same size as the ones in the original bracket. The hydroboost has studs that come in from the opposite side. The assembly is ready for installation.

I managed to get the correct flywheel and a new slave cylinder at O'Really for the cost of the flywheel alone at nappy, BTW, so one less thing on the list.

I should be getting the material for the crossmembers Thursday along with the master cylinder and hydraulic hose. Why not today? Because my @$$ is flat broke!

The obligatory pics:

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Got the correct flywheel installed. Transmission, behemoth, & tc back in. That's all I could get done today. The friend who's shop I'm using is an older guy and likes to lock his place down by 7pm.

I got that done and bolted the stock crossmember in so there would be more substantial support than the strap I had holding the drivetrain up.

Should get the pedals put in Thursday and might actually have the master, hose, & slave bench bled by then so it can go in too. I measured so I can throw a temporary driveshaft together. The idea is to cinch the drivetrain down to the crossmember and secure from left to right as well using three 2" ratchet straps. That way, I can creep the rig to the shop at work where I can work on it all night if I choose to.

My older friend is a great, generous guy but calling it a day by 7 ain't my speed... especially since I don't get off @#&$ until 5.
 

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