Is that enough to get all the gas out? Should I add anything to help slick it?
CK5
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Distributor or carburetor???
- Thread starter Chief Brody
- Start date
wasted wages
1 ton status
should be...maybe throw in some cheap oil and a filter....take it for a short ride...
then change it a second time... with a good filter and oil, and some Lucas...
then change it a second time... with a good filter and oil, and some Lucas...
Jury is still out on the fuel pump as far as hearing a leak.
I'm dumping the oil right now. If there is gas, shouldnt it float to the top?
I'm dumping the oil right now. If there is gas, shouldnt it float to the top?
wasted wages
1 ton status
once mixed, I don't think it will separate.
It just thins out the oil so bad and breaks it down that it loses the ability to lubricate..
It just thins out the oil so bad and breaks it down that it loses the ability to lubricate..
The oil was not discolored and almost exactly filled the 5 quart oil jug, so if there was gas, there wasn't much.
I put the new fuel pump on and change the oil and filter and let it run for a little while.
I am not driving it tonight I have to go somewhere with my girlfriend so my work has to stop for today.
I am seriously wondering if it was just me freaking out on the oil....
I put the new fuel pump on and change the oil and filter and let it run for a little while.
I am not driving it tonight I have to go somewhere with my girlfriend so my work has to stop for today.
I am seriously wondering if it was just me freaking out on the oil....
Either way, the fuel pump will have been eliminated from the discussion. I think 
Leaving me with distributor or carburetor again.
Leaving me with distributor or carburetor again.
wasted wages
1 ton status
Most fuel pumps have a vent or port
made into the casting that allows gas to
come out in the event of the diaphragm
leaking. If you saw gas come out where the flange bolts up to the block then the pump is bad.
Could possibly be that the pump would leak as the rpm's increased under load and spilled gas out of the vent, although you should have smelled or seen gas dripping on the ground.
It's also possible that the pump had a leak on the suction side of the pump allowing air to be sucked in under load or more rpm and the result would be in line with how your engine starts to sputter...it may have been pumping enough fuel to idle ok, but not under a load...
you can see the vent here...it also allows the
diaphragm to breathe as it flexes up and down...
made into the casting that allows gas to
come out in the event of the diaphragm
leaking. If you saw gas come out where the flange bolts up to the block then the pump is bad.
Could possibly be that the pump would leak as the rpm's increased under load and spilled gas out of the vent, although you should have smelled or seen gas dripping on the ground.
It's also possible that the pump had a leak on the suction side of the pump allowing air to be sucked in under load or more rpm and the result would be in line with how your engine starts to sputter...it may have been pumping enough fuel to idle ok, but not under a load...
you can see the vent here...it also allows the
diaphragm to breathe as it flexes up and down...
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I just drove it, we can mark off the fuel pump, that did not solve the problem.
wasted wages
1 ton status
carb rebuild next ?
Have you tried any Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil in the gas tank & crankcase.?..that'll help clean out any crud in the carb and free up any sticky valves that might be causing the sputtering..
It may do nothing too,but it wont harm it either..
I've had some very poor running small engines that sat a long time that came back to running well again after adding the above to the fuel and crankcase,it took some running time for it to take effect,but it saved me from having to pull the carb apart and clean it..I think the valves were sticky too..
It may do nothing too,but it wont harm it either..
I've had some very poor running small engines that sat a long time that came back to running well again after adding the above to the fuel and crankcase,it took some running time for it to take effect,but it saved me from having to pull the carb apart and clean it..I think the valves were sticky too..
OK the new dizzy is in...good grief what a nightmare getting oil pump drive lined up.
Exactly as I tightened it down as it sets, it is at 29 degrees timing at 700 RPM. It idles good, but isn't that a little high?
Exactly as I tightened it down as it sets, it is at 29 degrees timing at 700 RPM. It idles good, but isn't that a little high?
Woo Hoo! New dizzy fixed it. No sputtering. So if you look at all the things I changed, new cap and coil that didn't work, it was like the ignition module or pickup...maybe bad weights corroded...but it would have cost almost as much as just replacing the distributor. I wish I had done that before I bought the cap, rotor and coil...but I have a spare now.
I still get to change the plugs and wires tomorrow. Maybe that will help even more. Thankful for no need for carb kit just yet.
I was stupid and was checking the timing with the spark advance hooked up. I unplugged it and set it to 12* and with the spark advance hooked up it goes to 35*
I still get to change the plugs and wires tomorrow. Maybe that will help even more. Thankful for no need for carb kit just yet.
I was stupid and was checking the timing with the spark advance hooked up. I unplugged it and set it to 12* and with the spark advance hooked up it goes to 35*
wasted wages
1 ton status
check for vacuum leaks ??
look over all your hoses real good...don't forget the pcv valve and hose and the brake booster hose....
look over all your hoses real good...don't forget the pcv valve and hose and the brake booster hose....
wasted wages
1 ton status
..Glad you finally had some success..My guess was the pick up coil got half fried when that old coil overheated..(not sure I'd call that old coil "good" ,but for a spare to limp home on it might work)..
Coil & pick up coils and modules all can be tough to diagnose seeing they sometimes "come and go" intermittently and any tests or equipment may not pick up any faults unless they happen when the test is being done,they fail more under high heat or temperature swings only intermittently --sometimes replacing parts until the issue seems fixed IS the only fix..
I have been fairly lucky installing distributors,I haven't had to turn the engine over either by hand or with a remote start switch or helper,if it doesn't want to slide down in all the way I pull it back up and move the rotor one tooth either was until it drops in all the way..
Then I usually drop the retainer "fork" and bolt on to the bell housing..
Like you I'm in no shape to be lying on a board trying to reach the distributor any more..was tough enough to do it at 30..be very painful to do it now..
One good thing about a 6.2 is no distributor or carb,but when they start sputtering its going to be beeeg bucks to feex..
Changed the plugs and wires today, what a PIA the drivers side is. Spark plugs looked the way 9 year old spark plugs should...black soot...no detonation or anything abnormal. One wire has been badly burned into by the exhaust manifold...that was the #3 cylinder.
Just got back from driving it, it runs really good, only thing is it is running a little hotter than what I normally see on the gauge.
Just got back from driving it, it runs really good, only thing is it is running a little hotter than what I normally see on the gauge.
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Laugh of the day...my oil dipstick tube has been loose for years...I just discovered today that I had it upside down....
What an idiot..
What an idiot..
That's OK,humans do make mistakes..
Once I had a small block I was attempting to rebuild and I installed the 8 pistons & rings,and it was my first Chevy V8 to fool with internally..
I was just about to install the cylinder heads when my co-worker at the parts store showed up at my garage and I stopped for a break and we sat and had a cool drink for a few minutes..
He looks at the engine and says "hey--nice job cleaning it up"..
Then he said "what's next" and I said "I was just ready to drop the heads on when you showed up"..
"No you aren't",he says...he points at the "smiles" on the pistons (valve reliefs ) and says "See these ?--those should be over here--not there !"..I had all 8 pistons in facing the wrong way!..had I turned it over or tried cranking it up the valves would have smashed into the pistons..the connecting rods were pressed on "backwards" too..
Once I had a small block I was attempting to rebuild and I installed the 8 pistons & rings,and it was my first Chevy V8 to fool with internally..
I was just about to install the cylinder heads when my co-worker at the parts store showed up at my garage and I stopped for a break and we sat and had a cool drink for a few minutes..
He looks at the engine and says "hey--nice job cleaning it up"..
Then he said "what's next" and I said "I was just ready to drop the heads on when you showed up"..
"No you aren't",he says...he points at the "smiles" on the pistons (valve reliefs ) and says "See these ?--those should be over here--not there !"..I had all 8 pistons in facing the wrong way!..had I turned it over or tried cranking it up the valves would have smashed into the pistons..the connecting rods were pressed on "backwards" too..
Glad to see you figured it out before messing with the carb and spending more money
