Ryoken, there's a layer and half total, all poly cloth. I cant shake a comment you made when I first started this adventure, being my first fiberglassing experience. You said, "You're not asking for much (in terms of detail with glassing)." I understand that comment now.
Every detail I wanted to glass was a BIG PIA to the point that the shroud decidedly became all poly cloth. I will say this - I learned a lot from this crash course. I will also go further to state that I think it turned out dam fine. Thanks for the available tech support.
As for the duraglass - No, there's none. If you're looking at the "puddle" that runs across the entire top, thats something else. Epoxy pour. I layed my cloth layers, and in the end was left holding a cup of epoxy. So, I poured and spread, thinking that it would reduce some of the "rough" surfaces in the end. I think it helped, but it didnt exactly "self level" and smooth out like I was imagining.
After the run-in with non-yielding glass, I reverted to what I
do know. I had a base form - Time to build it up. I chased the cloth with cat hair resin and built from there. Thats where the discoloration came in - Some batches were hotter than others, some cooler.
POORBOYK5,
the switch is located on the thermostat water neck, after removing something to do with emissions (I dont remember the name of it - But it wasnt being used regardless). You will need a bushing/adapter. I dont remember the outer dimension, but believe it is somewhere in this thread. I'll see if I can find it.
Post #108 - The dual circuit switch is located on the water neck, replacing the EFE vacuum switch (wasnt functional, so for the moment seemed like a good idea.). The vaccum switch is 1/2" thread, the BMW switch is M14-1.5. I went to Lowes and bought a "bushing" (I call them pipe fitting reducers). It was a 1/2" external reduced to 1/8" internal. Drilled the center, tapped it M14-1.5.
This item is now added to the project materials list (at the end of this post, below).
My fitting leaks a drop or two - I wasnt thinking at the time. Do not tap the bushing completely through. It wont tighten and seal properly (like a pipe fitting). I havent concerned myself with this issue because Im still considering (not a huge priority) moving the switch to the right rear head for a more accurate reading.
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Here's the shroud, staged in position - IIRC, this is at the 100 grit stage..
And here is a quick shot of how it will mount. I still need to drill 3 holes in the fan shroud for 10/32 screws which will screw into solid blind nuts (set in the fan housing).
The front 4 holes are already spoken for, they just need to be re-drilled through the fresh resin in the shroud. I will be plating these bolts instead of using flat washers (A single plate connecting the two bolts), to help distribute the force applied when tightening the front of the shroud down.
Questions / comments welcome.
Troy B,
Ft Hood, TX
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Windstar Fan Swap List
While some of this stuff has obvious locations - Some of it does not. It took me more than 2 months to find the maintained DPDT rocker switch. The fan and dual temp switch - I'd grab those from a wrecking yard - Links are only for reference.
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