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Chevy305

Chevy305

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I am really excited to be building a 350 for my truck. I have a 91 350 out of a GMC 1500. I bought it from a mechanic (buddy of mine) who checked it out and said all it needs is new rod and main bearings and its good to go. It had a cooland leak from the intake into the lifter valley and the caused the bearings to wipe. He said it has good compression at 125psi on all 8 cylinders.

So the plan is to get it on an engine stand this weekend and inspect the crank and rods myself to make sure they still good. Once I verify that, I plan on replacing the needed bearings, new cam, lifters, timing chain, and a nice set of heads.

I am shooting for around 350hp or more

I really like what I hear about Lunati Voodoo cams and this one seems to match my rpm opperating range: Duration 262/268, Lift .468/.489
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-60102LK/

As far as the heads I am split between the TrickFlow 23 degree and the World Products Sportsman II
Trickflow: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-30400002/
Sportsman II: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WRL-011250-1/

What are some or your recomendations and/or advice?
 
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I would replace rings and maybe even pistons as long as its that far apart.

If the bearing did get wiped out I would have a machinist check out and cut the crank if necessary.

And what are your plans with this engine/truck? those heads have pretty small chambers, why so much compression?
 
Freshen the bottom end completely . Its a rite of passage to clean the ringlands and assemble your first shortblock .

As for your head and cam selection , you can probably buy a top end kit and save some money as opposed to piecing it together .

350 horse is easy , and attainable with iron heads and stamped rockers . You really should be shooting for over 400hp with a decent set of heads and a matched valvetrain .
 
79rustyk10 said:
I would replace rings and maybe even pistons as long as its that far apart.

If the bearing did get wiped out I would have a machinist check out and cut the crank if necessary.

And what are your plans with this engine/truck? those heads have pretty small chambers, why so much compression?
Click to expand...

I have always thought that more compression equals more power. I have to run premium as it is with the 305HO so its no big deal if I still have to run 93. Shouldn't the factory pistons be dished?

pauly383 said:
Freshen the bottom end completely . Its a rite of passage to clean the ringlands and assemble your first shortblock .

As for your head and cam selection , you can probably buy a top end kit and save some money as opposed to piecing it together .

350 horse is easy , and attainable with iron heads and stamped rockers . You really should be shooting for over 400hp with a decent set of heads and a matched valvetrain .
Click to expand...

I was planning on a nice set of roller tipped stamped rockers. As far as a top end kit goes, I already have a weiand intake and holley carb I'm going to run. So I'd be spending a little bit more for extra parts I dont think I need.

But You guys are right about the pistons and rings. I should replace them and hone the bores. The block has been sitting for a few months without an oil pan, so I just hope there isn't any surface rust on the cylinder walls... :(
 
This is just my opinion, so take it for what it is worth;
If you want something to just rin for a while, bearing the deal and run it. But if you are looking to build something-
Don't waste money on some name you find in a summit catalog. Things like Voodoo cams etc. Don't throw money at a sales pitch. There are two basic cam core companies in america. All of your cam cores will come from one or the other. And all cams are is bumps on a piece of steel. If you go to a place like Doug Herbert, you can get and SBC flat tappet cam and lifters for 109$. Or the upgraded lifters for about 25$ or so more. Competition Products out of Oshkosh has about the same deals. They also have lots of take out cams as they do lots of crate engines for marine and other applications. (Very inexpensive.) Find out what the cam specs are that you are looking for and get one close from someone with the same cores at 1/2 the price, or call someone at either place and they can find a cam right for you. Great service and knowledge at either one. One of the things the voodoo deals do is machine advance in the camshaft. Basically tricking the engine into making more power down low and dying up top. Guess what. So does everyone else building cams for low rpm power.
Also look at the budget builds in Doug Herberts. You can get a new cam, lifters, timing chain, bearings, rings, pistons, gaskets, and a mellings oil pump for $299. At that price, why run used pisons? They also have options for a little more money to get into a set of forged pistons with the same kit and not too much more money.
If the bearings are hurt, look at the crank. It would be a waste to kill a brand new engine. If it is O.K. get a quick polish on it just to make sure.
Sportsman II's only come in a 200cc intake runner. Avoid that like the plague! You either have to make more cubic inches to use that runner, or spin rpm's. With what you are talking about, and the cam specs, you won't spin the rpm's to make them work. And you will have a big dollar engine that will not make you happy. Find a nice Pro Topline or EQ lightning with a 180cc. They are cheaper and better in EVERY WAY!!! Plus the smaller runner will be able to make the power much lower in the rpm's. The new EQ's come out of the box so much cleaner than anything I have ever seen from Bill Mitchell. Call Scot Slotten from DynoFlo and get either of the heads I just spoke about in the package you want for 75% of what you would have spent on the Sportsman stuff. Tell him Buzzz sent you and you may even get a better deal. Trick Flow is just Summit's name on someone elses head, and more money than they are worth.
 
I would just rebuild the 305 heads you have they will run great on that 350. And I agree about cam I have always ran mellings cams now they have their "tourque select" (I think, last time I bought a cam they was just called off road cam) cheaper than some of the big name brands and excellent quality
 
original balzer said:
I would just rebuild the 305 heads you have they will run great on that 350. And I agree about cam I have always ran mellings cams now they have their "tourque select" (I think, last time I bought a cam they was just called off road cam) cheaper than some of the big name brands and excellent quality
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those heads would choke a 350, with a decent cam.
 
I would just run Vortec heads, and ditch your current intake.

Martin
 
For sure dump the 305 heads... I've looked into em quite a bit and learned a few things on here. Valve size and shrouding are a big problem and they won't flow anywhere near a set of trick flows or AFR's even with major port work.

Trick flow's should make more power then the sportsmans and like wannaberacing said they (sportsman II) are 200cc which sucks for a truck.

If your gonna spend all that money on trick flows why not spend another 200 for 180cc AFR eliminator's? Best head on the market IMO.

Vortec's are a good option but you'll need aftermarket springs if your cam is over .450.

Heads are the heart of the motor. I say splurge for the AFR's. You'll be over 400hp without much effort.
 
76zimmer said:
those heads would choke a 350, with a decent cam.
Click to expand...

Fabrimacator21 said:
For sure dump the 305 heads... I've looked into em quite a bit and learned a few things on here. Valve size and shrouding are a big problem and they won't flow anywhere near a set of trick flows or AFR's even with major port work.

Trick flow's should make more power then the sportsmans and like wannaberacing said they (sportsman II) are 200cc which sucks for a truck.

If your gonna spend all that money on trick flows why not spend another 200 for 180cc AFR eliminator's? Best head on the market IMO.

Vortec's are a good option but you'll need aftermarket springs if your cam is over .450.

Heads are the heart of the motor. I say splurge for the AFR's. You'll be over 400hp without much effort.
Click to expand...


You guys are sort of correct but he said 350hp so why buy new heads when he can rebuild the ones he has for a fraction of the cost. The 305HO heads are not so bad for low power application such as 350hp ad they are better than huge 78cc truck heads that drop your compression.
 
Fabrimacator21 said:
For sure dump the 305 heads... I've looked into em quite a bit and learned a few things on here. Valve size and shrouding are a big problem and they won't flow anywhere near a set of trick flows or AFR's even with major port work.

Trick flow's should make more power then the sportsmans and like wannaberacing said they (sportsman II) are 200cc which sucks for a truck.

If your gonna spend all that money on trick flows why not spend another 200 for 180cc AFR eliminator's? Best head on the market IMO.

Vortec's are a good option but you'll need aftermarket springs if your cam is over .450.

Heads are the heart of the motor. I say splurge for the AFR's. You'll be over 400hp without much effort.
Click to expand...

ya these heads look pretty impressive...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AFR-0916/

Here's a chevelle with the AFR Eliminators and a Voodoo cam

 
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Fabrimacator21 said:
little pricier then I thought.

What's your budget like?
Click to expand...

I figure any more than $2500 I'm buying a crate engine at 400hp for $3000

YearOne Truck Catalog: Restoration and Performance Parts

Building American Muscle. Backed by our unequalled "No-Sweat Return Policy."
Truck » Performance » YearOne Crate Engine » YearOne Crate Engines » CT350PC1
ct350pc1.jpg
Engine Specifications:
* Horsepower: 400+
* Torque: 400+ ft/lbs
* Compression ratio: 9.5:1
* Dyno-tested: Yes, includes balancer and 14" flexplate
* Dyno sheet: Included with engine's output
* Vacuum produced: 12hg @ 800RPM
* Recommended fuel: 92 octane
* Max recommended RPM- 6000
* Block: Seasoned 4-bolt iron
* Crankshaft: Nodular iron
* Pistons: Hypereutectic
* Connecting rods: Powdered metal
* Camshaft- Hydraulic roller
* Valve lift:.520"
* Duration @ .050" (int/exh): 218deg/228deg
* Rocker arms: Stamped steel 1.6:1 ratio
* Cylinder heads: Ported Vortec
* Valves: Stainless steel 2.02 int/1.60 exh
* Valve springs: Heavy duty
* Bore x Stroke: 4.030" x 3.48"
* Intake manifold: Dual-plane aluminum
* Oil pan, timing cover, valve covers included
* Engine fasteners: High tensile strength
* Warranty: 12 mth/12,000 mi

Part #DescriptionPriceAdd to CartCT350PC1 Year One Power Crate 400hp 350 crate engine assembly. $2989.00
add.gif

*This product is discount exempt.*This product is shipped truck freight.
Features a 4-bolt main 350 block bored 0.030 over. It produces 12hg inches of vacuum at 800RPM--perfect for power brakes. Each engine is balanced and blueprinted and comes with a 12mth/12,000 mi warranty. It is dyno-tested and supplied with printout of your engine's results.
 
I don't have the energy to put all that into Desktop dyno but judging by the cam lift I'm guessing it's geared more towards top end. I can't look at duration's like some can around here and tell where the powerband is gonna be so desktop dyno is my religion lol.
 
79rustyk10 said:
Do they have a dyno printout for it?
Click to expand...

This is for that yearone crate engine

dynochart.jpg


Fabrimacator21 said:
I don't have the energy to put all that into Desktop dyno but judging by the cam lift I'm guessing it's geared more towards top end. I can't look at duration's like some can around here and tell where the powerband is gonna be so desktop dyno is my religion lol.
Click to expand...

Ya normal cruising speed for me is 1500-2200rpm on the roads and 3000rpm on the highway. Also the offroading I do involves full throttle hill climbs and mud runs. I'm no cam expert but I've done a lot of comparisons and this 262/268 Voodoo cam keeps coming out on top.
 
ok update

Ok so now I have the engine up on an engine stand and I started tearing it down. I took off the heads and intake to see the cylinder walls in not that bad of shape. They will need to be honed with new pistons/rings. Unfortunately for the crank its not so good... I pulled just one bearing cap off and the crank is scored bad. The bearing actually had little splinters I could pull off it.

I am kind of discouraged now...

But maybe now I can make it a 383 stroker :bow:

If I were to have the crank machined, how much would that cost aprox?
Also how much does a new crank cost?
And how much would a 383 rotating assembly be? Brand recomendations?
Putting in a 400 crank, do I need to have the block machined/clearanced?

Anything else thats involved and/or considerations?
 
Most blocks will need a little clearancing with a 400 crank, or almost any aftermarket crank. It is pretty simple and common. Just set in the crank with the rods and pistons on. rotate around and mark, then grind anywhere that the rods or crank hit. It needs about 50-60 thousanths clearance and that is all. Then take apart and clean really well before final assembly.
Cutting a wounded crank is cheap and once again, very common. Ask your machinist and it may clean up with just a polish. (Ususally about 25-30$.) Or if you want to go with a new crank, do yourself a favor and price everything out from start to finish. It can get more expesive real quick. I had a $1800 crank I had laying in the shop. It was a little odd, but I decided to put it in my new build for my 75 blazer and the cost is getting out of control to make this thing work. Yes, I will have the coolest engine on the planet, but it will be worth four times what the truck will ever be valued at. (So if someone wants to give you a Callies Pro Magnum XL crank in 3.800 stroke with 400 mains and 2" rods, just know it will cost a bunch more than standard stuff. :wink1:)
And for brands of cranks and rods for a 383. I will give you a little hint. Almost every one of the budget deals is made in the same few places. They then bring them to america and some finish them differently. But for the most part, it is just a different box.
Doug Herbert has a deal right now that get you a new scat cast steel crank, 5140 I beam rods, Speed pro cast pistons, clevite bearings and perfect circle rings for $579.99. That is a 3.75 stroke crank and can come in 30over, 60over, 90over, etc. I think DynoFlo has one too for about the same, but I don't see it right off. You could call.
The added stroke will help you make more power down low.

*edit* That eBay deal above is a pretty decent deal. Mark makes a good piston. And getting the balance and a good flexplate and balancer is a nice addition.
 
Scat makes some good replacement cranks that won't break the bank.
I'm running 268 heads on my 355. They've been bowl bashed and the runners hogged out. they're feeding a 12.48:1 355 w/a comp XE268 cam.
 
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