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First Gen, all hardware no software

So I bought this '70 K5 and fell in the rabbit hole ever since. It was tired, a victim of someone's "perfume on a pig" restoration. Original 350/350.Paint is nice.
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If the thermostat isn't open, there shouldn't be water flow in the upper hose to build pressure in that hose over what the system pressure is.
Would you explain your theory a bit more?

If the cap held too much pressure, then the weakest point becomes a failure potential. And an old radiator can have a weakened solder joint from years of use and thermal cycles.
Just my thoughts.
 
Truckman4life said:
Just solder that sucker back in and keep going! Or send it to a rad shop and have them clean it at the same time.
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I already had it recored and soldered. Anyhow it doesn't matter right now, I'm pulling the engine and raring it down most likely after a compression /leakdown test. I hope it's not to damaged but the rings were measure for thickness and diameter and file fit to spec. Something is wrong or went wrong. All of the vent issues I've dealt with and I still blow the dip stick out at 4k rpm it's not lookin good. Too bad it runs like a rape date too....
 
That sucks. I was just watching Deboss Garage on YouTube the other day and he had an engine with blow-by issues and they tore it down and found no problems. Hopefully you get yours all figured out.
 
6872xtc said:
Looking forward to you getting this engine fixed. Seems like you have had too many issues.
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Yea with both trucks, I need time. Have a new ecm/fuse block for the dually I just have to rewire everything before I even attempt to plug it in.
 
If this chinamen radiator holds up it will be quite the score! Welds all look good fitment is good. With fans and relay kit included, and a Purdy billet cap. I'm excited that it came standard with a heater return nipple. Got a kick up on the return though which the factory radiator I had was strait out so I'll have to match up a different hose. $230

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SpeedlabDan said:
If this chinamen radiator holds up it will be quite the score! Welds all look good fitment is good. With fans and relay kit included, and a Purdy billet cap. I'm excited that it came standard with a heater return nipple. Got a kick up on the return though which the factory radiator I had was strait out so I'll have to match up a different hose. $230

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I’m running the same one on my 74 w/BBC. I’ve only ran the engine at mild ambient temperatures however it’s been kept below 185 so far.

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SpeedlabDan said:
That looks quite a bit wider is it more rows? Fits nice still this seemed to be a direct replacement
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this is the 73-87 radiator but it’s the same company. For the price I figured it was worth the gamble. It was a little short so I had to fab a couple spacers to go between the rad support and the lower poly bushing.
 
skunked said:
this is the 73-87 radiator but it’s the same company. For the price I figured it was worth the gamble. It was a little short so I had to fab a couple spacers to go between the rad support and the lower poly bushing.
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Seems like the only mod I'll need is some sort of locator bc the rad is narrow at the tank so it kinds flops front to back a bit
 
Princess hurt herself... These are not the numbers I was lookin for so I be pulling it back out for another tare down. Last run I was seeing 13.5:1 afr so with this compression on pump gas that's askin for it alone. Maybe a little spicy without a knock sensor. Or it could be a broken ring causing all the blow by. Well see

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Yeah static compression w/o variable cam timing, or a big over lap. Should be 160 psi. I ended up with 190 psi on a 6" rod 350, cast iron gen 1 heads milled 1 to many times. I added .020 shim on the head gasket, got it down to 175 psi. I run octane boost in that engine.

You are going to need some large combustion chambers Aluminum heads are more forgiving than cast iron.

1 2 3 5 look steam cleaned.
 
Plugs are all normal maybe a little hot, no aluminum on them. Running aluminum heads so that's a plus, I'll be pulling the timing cover asap to degree the cam. At this point I'm leaning towards the cam being too far advanced and being so mild it's closing the valves too early causing these numbers.
However, #4 I will be performing a leakdown to find out if there's a burnt valve etc.
 
So anyhoo... Found the reason or reasons things aren't Workin out in the ol mill. They say "you buy cheap twice", well I thought I upgraded to forged Icon pistons. In their defence 246psi is waaaaaaay too high in a Na engine!!! Gonna degree the cam and figure out what's goin on. Thinkin SRP professional flat top pistons by JE and stepping up to 6" rods for less side load in the cylinder. Smh when strikers stroke ya

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