Shit...
CK5
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First Gen, all hardware no software
- Thread starter SpeedlabDan
- Start date
So I bought this '70 K5 and fell in the rabbit hole ever since. It was tired, a victim of someone's "perfume on a pig" restoration. Original 350/350.Paint is nice.
Degreed the cam today just to verify intake wasn't too advanced causing 246psi static compression. Everything is within 3-4 degrees taking all factors into account like chain stretch etc it's pretty much not the cause. This is a mild truck cam I'll post the card when I go back out in the shop. My engine builder is shopping for a larger cam to bleed off more psi during compression. Also ordering a new forged piston to replace the oddest piston failure ever. There is absolutely no sign of piston failure due to detonation. The top is perfect. 
What’s your ring end gap? Possible you butted the ring?
Gaps are all perfect too, we really checked everything and it doesn't make any sense. The piston could have been an defect I guess but static comp is strange. A larger cam will make the comp bleed off during the stoke making the compression numbers a bit safer for pump gas especially with the gas crisis on the rise 
Got back into the cage this afternoon since I'm waiting on engine parts. Kinda stoked. Layed out the forward and mid doweled plates for tying the cab to bed. This will be tied into the frame via poli brushed dowel plates as well
So I put an order in, and also ordered two Icon forged ic9931- (.030) pistons. The one was obviously junk but one of the others had a little tight ring fitment. I'll avoid any chance that one is on its way out.
We'll be stepping up to the thumper cam with a bit more overlap/duration to "bleed off" some of the static compression. I'm also grabbing some 0.040" cometic MLS head gaskets to replace the 0.030" cometics that were used previously. This will up the quench area of the chamber and also slightly lower static compression and I'm impressed with how they held up to the unusually high compression. This is all in an effort to make it safer to run pump gas. Theoretically, the loss of compression will be made up with the better performing cam so hopefully it may even run better.
So back to cage work today.
We'll be stepping up to the thumper cam with a bit more overlap/duration to "bleed off" some of the static compression. I'm also grabbing some 0.040" cometic MLS head gaskets to replace the 0.030" cometics that were used previously. This will up the quench area of the chamber and also slightly lower static compression and I'm impressed with how they held up to the unusually high compression. This is all in an effort to make it safer to run pump gas. Theoretically, the loss of compression will be made up with the better performing cam so hopefully it may even run better.
So back to cage work today.
Also gonna try to figure out this little jammy. Since the engine is out nows the time to remove the firewall mounted fuel "bellcrank" if necessary.
I've always hated the stock rubber fuel pedal bc it gets bent from holding it to the wood. If you're familiar, you already know the arm is expected to glide on the backside of the pedal. I've had numerous instances of it hanging my throttle wide open at red lights etc. I usually drive with just the rod. So we'll see
I've always hated the stock rubber fuel pedal bc it gets bent from holding it to the wood. If you're familiar, you already know the arm is expected to glide on the backside of the pedal. I've had numerous instances of it hanging my throttle wide open at red lights etc. I usually drive with just the rod. So we'll see
I will be interested to see how that part works. I can't see it in my head right now.
I have never seen on of the original pedals get bent, but I always stepped on the upper part so as to push onto the rod. Silicone lube on it helped too.
But I get ya, I swapped my '70 over to a pedal from a '72 because I didn't like having to notch the floor mat and then having crap accumulate under the pedal. And being able to use a cable was easier to adjust for other changes.
I have never seen on of the original pedals get bent, but I always stepped on the upper part so as to push onto the rod. Silicone lube on it helped too.
But I get ya, I swapped my '70 over to a pedal from a '72 because I didn't like having to notch the floor mat and then having crap accumulate under the pedal. And being able to use a cable was easier to adjust for other changes.
I did lube it and it helps but the pedal I have is rubber with a metal frame so it may not be factory.
I do want to go full cable I ordered the pedal as I'm not sure how to set it up so I'll start with the pedal and go from there possibly making my own brackets etc. The engine is in my shop and not going back to the machinist as we're just going to reassemble with new pistons and the parts listed. Static comp was seeing 243psi to 246psi
Not the cylinder pressure, the mechanical compression ratioI do want to go full cable I ordered the pedal as I'm not sure how to set it up so I'll start with the pedal and go from there possibly making my own brackets etc. The engine is in my shop and not going back to the machinist as we're just going to reassemble with new pistons and the parts listed. Static comp was seeing 243psi to 246psi
Supposed 11:1 but I haven't double checked the math it's a long equation
Now we're gettin somewhere. Usin the Rogue fab bender the way it makes sence to me fack youtube
Found this today as well, kinda interesting for linking my fitech. 6 years ago Holley/edelbrock didn't have the products they have now so I'm kinda committed to fitech... Dunno if I want just one lcd screen in place. It is kinda racey looking. Oneguage.com they do work with other setups as well as having a host of impressive options
This particular combo minus the cam I was running has been a proven streetable combo at 11:1 but there surely isn't any margin for error. Anyway it wasn't the ratio that was the issue. There is zero sign of detonation on the pistons
Nothing in my dash currently operates other than water temp so I gotta figure something out.
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