Alan2smiley
I'm in the shop
All shafts are good go, front is complete, costom rear shock studs. when replacing the rear axle seals found a wore out spider gear shim thingy. 
CK5
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Fixing my K5 impulse buy
- Thread starter Alan2smiley
- Start date
My impulse buy 84 K5, definitely need help.
Alan2smiley
I'm in the shop
Just a fluid change.
Alan2smiley
I'm in the shop
When the key is turned on the fuel pump runs for about 20 seconds, the switch doesn't control it. I'll try starting it next week after I get the transfercase back from the transmission shop.
Too many one wheel burnouts killed the spider gear thrust washer.
Alan2smiley
I'm in the shop
Yeah, I thought it was strange they didn't wear the same. Back to the woods for more parts.
Alan2smiley
I'm in the shop
Safety first! 
Alan2smiley
I'm in the shop
I'm going to use the spider gear pin and shims from the suburban, they have less wear. The suburban spider gears have one more tooth but the shims appear to be the same.
Alan2smiley
I'm in the shop
The hitch install is sketchy, needed to do some welding buy shock mount stud, bumper needs a little tweaking and the fuel gauge registered half when it was empty so I figured I'd drop the tank. I must be missing something here, two wires to control fuel pump and gauge or is the fuel pump hiding somewhere else?
Alan2smiley
I'm in the shop
I didn't take it out of the tank but the top looks like the image I found.
Just 2 wires in that connector and a separate ground wire. I don't see a ground wire attached to you sending unit. You could replace it or solder on a new ground lead to the top of the sending unit.
Alan2smiley
I'm in the shop
Yeah the ground broke when I tried to unhook it. Wow only two wires for pump and sending unit. I guess one for pump, one for sending unit and ground. Any idea how I could test sending unit with the tank out? Sorry but I haven't paid any attention to fuel injection systems or anything else thats electrical.My plow truck is carb, the crew cab is mechanical fuel injection diesel, the Dodge and sedan alway start.
My plow truck is carb, the crew cab is mechanical fuel injection diesel, the Dodge and sedan alway start.
Hahaha!
For testing the sending unit - if the tank is empty, you can rotate it around and the float will move through its range. Check the resistance with an ohmmeter. I know the older squarebody units would read 50 ohms when the tank was full and 0 ohms when empty. Check the wiring diagram for your particular year.
It's 0-90 ohms on this one. Run the wire to ground and the gauge should go to zero. With the wire unplugged it should read full.
I've been through mine on each fuel pump. My sender is right, but the gauge reads a quarter past the full mark. I need to pull the needle and "adjust" it.
I've been through mine on each fuel pump. My sender is right, but the gauge reads a quarter past the full mark. I need to pull the needle and "adjust" it.
Doah!
You are right. I'm just misremembering things. Always check the documentation!
The important part is that it can be easily checked with an ohmmeter.
I shattered a needle once doing that. After that I decided I'd just live with it. Is the "empty" mark also up 1/4th of a tank, or is it just going too high?
Mine would read properly from E-F, but also jump up 1/4 past full when disconnected. Infinite resistance read differently than 90 ohms.
Use a fork to lift up from the center instead of prying up from one side. They don't break most of the time that way.
Mine always reads a 1/4 tank worth over actual. I'm pretty used to it, full is 5/4, 3/4 tank is full on the gage and down to empty is 1/4 on the gauge.
Alan2smiley
I'm in the shop
Awesome! thanks so much for the information.
Yeah, that would get annoying. Especially if anyone ever borrowed the truck without knowing that.
Mine is the same. Drives me nuts. I've got an extra autometer gauge for a Chevy I'm going to throw in and see if that's more accurate. Maybe it'll improve my mileage some!!
