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FullSize S10 Bogger/Mud Racer

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I had the same issue with the pads hanging up on the caliper bracket. I told the seller about it, sent him detailed pics, and he said he never had that issue from anyone before. You should notify him so he knows it's not a fluke. My guess is either he got a bad batch of caliper brackets or the pads he originally used for engineering arent the same as what he is getting now. I went ahead and got the complete kit since it was cheaper than I could get everything individually for. Believe me, I looked.
 
truck-oholic said:
I had the same issue with the pads hanging up on the caliper bracket. I told the seller about it, sent him detailed pics, and he said he never had that issue from anyone before. You should notify him so he knows it's not a fluke. My guess is either he got a bad batch of caliper brackets or the pads he originally used for engineering arent the same as what he is getting now. I went ahead and got the complete kit since it was cheaper than I could get everything individually for. Believe me, I looked.
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That's good to know I wasn't the only one who ran into that problem. I'll be sure to let him know.

Only reason I sourced my own parts is because I get a pretty steep discount at the local NAPA, was cheaper for me to get my own rotors/pads. I already had a set of calipers I knew were good.
 
Put the rear brakes together and tried bleeding everything last nitgh.

Brake install went smooth, nothing unexpected there. Got the fronts bled out but having a little problem with the rears. Getting lots of fluid with air, will have good pedal for a few cycles then loose it. Currently have the calipers up in the box to try getting the air up there. I might still have some air in the master cylinder, going to try bleeding that again if I can't get them to work next time.




 
Took advantage of the nice weather (in the 60's) and got out there for a few hours tonight.

Tracked my source of air in the line down to the fitting at the master cylinder. I tried reflaring it twice but wasn't able to get it to seal. Ended up using a piece of store bought line with a double flare to fix it. Come to find out, it's not the first time they've (my guy at NAPA) has heard of this problem. He said the nut wasn't able to push evenly on my single flare without it distorting the line. The machine made double flare is stiffer, allowing it to clamp more evenly. So with the exception of making my correct length pushrod for between the master and pedal....the brakes are done. I'll finish up the pushrod after I get my seats mounted and know where I want my pedal to fall.

Couple shots of the rear brakes with the wheels on. Caliper is close to the springs because of the dually width axle. There is more room than it looks like, plenty for the caliper to move as the pads wear. I'll probably find some wheel spacers to get the rears inline with the fronts.





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Up next is to get the coolant pipes painted and mounted. Then I can pull the box and throw some paint at the frame before hooking them up to the engine and radiator.
 
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Welded the tabs on my pipes and painted them tonight. Got them installed too. Need to make up the short piece of hard tube for the upper where it comes out of the intake, but i need to wait untill I get the accesories on and the core support back up there. I used some bushings from swaybar end links to mount them in the front. At the rear I used some exhaust hangers. They are still loose in the last picture, will straighten them once I hook up the radiator.






 
You going to put any bleeders in the cooling system? I could see the top of the water neck needing one at least.
 
JoshHefnerX said:
You going to put any bleeders in the cooling system? I could see the top of the water neck needing one at least.
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My thermostat housing has a port for a temp sender, will use that to bleed it. The top of the radiator is the highest point in the system, so I don't think it'll be too bad to get the air out.
 
Got the lower hose finished up and mounted the water pump for good. Turns out a lower hose from a GMT400 works great to get up and over the frame when you turn it sideways. Used a piece of pipe and straight length of hose to connect it to the pipe under the cab. I've got plenty of room between the hose and tire, but I still may go back and change that out to a hard pipe, or sleeve it with something. Either way, I'll put something to guard it around the frame/shock,






Before I do the upper I'll mount the rest of the accessories on the motor and put the core support back up so I know how much room I have.
 
JoshHefnerX said:
Is that a flare on the end of those pipes? If so, how'd you do that?
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I bought a tailpipe expander. You put it in the pipe and crank down on the center bolt, it expands and flares the pipe. Being I was cheap and bought one from HarborFreight...it only lasted a few times before it gave up. The idea was to flare the pipes so it would be an easier joint to weld. The one you can see there was done with a tail pipe cone. Which is exactly what it sounds like. A cone you either beat into the pipe or drop the pipe onto a few times. I just wanted something on the ends to help hold the hose. If I need to, I can put a bead of weld around to give it even more holding area.
 
toomany said:
Yes, a beadroller would do it just as well. Probably look better, be faster and more secure too.
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I've built a lot of intercooler pipes to hold boost and I always just weld a bead around right at the end of the pipe and clean it up with a flap disc on a grinder so it's nice and smooth. Never had one blow off yet.
 
Made some solid progress tonight. Started by getting the front of the engine dressed with the accessories. Put the header gaskets in. Then I finished the upper radiator hose and started filling the cooling system.

These are the alternator/power steering pump/water pump/crank pulley from the rolled K20 I picked up last summer. Everything seemed to work good on that truck once I got it running. Bonus is I got a newer Powermaster alternator out of it.




For the upper hose, I had every intention to use a short rubber coupling connected to a length of hard tube to get around the front of the motor and down the side. Before I started on that, I found an upper hose (probably from the same GMT400 I got the lower from), stuck it on there and it looked like I could make it work fairly well. Cut the first bend off and used that to connect to the thermostat housing. Welded a small leg onto a leftover bend piece and used part of the cutoff hose to change direction again. I plan on adding a tab to the middle metal section to hold it to the core support mount. I didn't really think of it until after I painted it and connected everything for the last time.






Started filling the cooling system. All was going great until I started hearing water pouring onto the floor. Thinking WTF, I pressure tested all the tubes....then I dawned on me that I didn't have the sending unit in the cylinder head for the temperature gauge. I caught most of it with a funnel/jug, let it level itself out and put a plug in it for now. At least it will be a good wet test for the lower hose.





Think I can move onto the interior and start getting the seats mounted, doors on, shifter and gauges in.
 
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Those hoses in the wheelwell, are they going to be a problem getting snagged, or you going to tie them up and out of the way a bit?
 
JoshHefnerX said:
Those hoses in the wheelwell, are they going to be a problem getting snagged, or you going to tie them up and out of the way a bit?
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They are further away than it looks in the pictures. Tire doesn't come close to them when turning. They'll get covered in mud and slop though. I'm looking for something to sleeve them with to keep the chance of a puncture down. Next time I get out there I'll try to get a straight on shot of how much clearance there is.
 
Here are a couple quick shots showing the clearance between the tire and hoses.







The floor was bone dry under the truck too, so the lower hose/pipe is good to go.
 
Welded the tab on to the upper hose elbow and got one of the seats installed. Plan was to get both seats in, but I ran out of metal and bolts so I called it a night a few hours early.


Not exactly how I wanted to do it....but it'll work just fine. I would have rather drilled into the bottom half of the tube and welded a nut in, but I couldn't get a straight shot at it with the drill. So I went all the way through from the top and used a nut/bolt.





Made up some quick risers for the seat. I got it as close to the window as possible while still being able to get the cover on/off. Went about 4" off the floor which seems just about right for these seats. One of my biggest complaints with stock S10's is how low you sit in them. Made sure to leave myself enough head room for when I have a helmet on. Passenger side will be similar. Didn't want to put too much effort into the mounts as they will probably get changed when roll cage goes in down the road. For now this will work as they are securely fixed.







Also picked up a like new TCI extra deep transmission pan. Guy had it on there when building it but decided to run something else. Retails for $150 from Summit/Jegs, paid $70 for it. Hold an extra 2 quarts. I planed on picking up a cast pan to get rid of the stock stamped one anyway, so this was kind of a planned purchase.



 
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