Grandpa’s Blazer gettin fixed up…

[Blue85]

Yeah, for sheet metal, with a regular old MIG, you're doing a bunch of tacks, not laying beads. The heat spreads out better and you get less warping if you keep moving around (you know, like tightening lug nuts in an iterative star pattern). You may need to clean with a wire brush between passes.

Really, the biggest conundrum is how to treat the back side of the weld.

 

[Conner]

Yeah, for sheet metal, with a regular old MIG, you're doing a bunch of tacks, not laying beads. The heat spreads out better and you get less warping if you keep moving around (you know, like tightening lug nuts in an iterative star pattern). You may need to clean with a wire brush between passes.

Really, the biggest conundrum is how to treat the back side of the weld.

Luckily with the cowl area it's not too hard to get paint in there through the openings that the plastic cowl cover thing sits on. And the firewall can be painted from under the dash.

If you have to get into your A-pillars at all, there is this spray paint nozzle with a hose and a 360-degree sprayer on the end, and you can actually feed it up into the A-pillar all the way to the front of the roof. It's kind of a pain to get to, but if you feel around in the corners of the cowl (upper corners closest to the cab) you can feel the opening to the A-pillar.

In fact even if you don't have to cut into your A-pillars, it's probably worth spraying some rust converter and/or paint in there just to prevent/stop/slow any potential future problems.

 

[Jon52]

Yeah, for sheet metal, with a regular old MIG, you're doing a bunch of tacks, not laying beads. The heat spreads out better and you get less warping if you keep moving around (you know, like tightening lug nuts in an iterative star pattern). You may need to clean with a wire brush between passes.

Really, the biggest conundrum is how to treat the back side of the weld.

TY for the response. This panel will be hid so that’s why it’s my first. I get to hide it with the outer panel cowl end.

 

[Blue85]

Good plan. Plus, "a grinder and paint makes me the welder I aint."

 

[Jon52]

Good plan. Plus, "a grinder and paint makes me the welder I aint."

Agreed. Different wire adjustments to settings. Wahoo. First patch in.

Since this is hidden, do you just use weld through primer or what is plan to treat metal before outer panel gets welded in?????

 

[Jon52]

Lift kits?

I have all new energy suspension body mounts to put in and motor mounts.

Thinking after metal work add a 4” lift so can run on 35s. Will a 2” lift work with 35s?

I just feel like stock wheels look like pizza cutters and need more beefy wheel setup for balanced look to completed stance.

Skyjacker
Rough Country
Chinese stuff from Amazon

What are we finding the best all around direct bolt on with all replacements for brackets and such so as not to create a problem to fix???

Input appreciated.

 

[Cucv_M1008]

Lift kits?

I have all new energy suspension body mounts to put in and motor mounts.

Thinking after metal work add a 4” lift so can run on 35s. Will a 2” lift work with 35s?

I just feel like stock wheels look like pizza cutters and need more beefy wheel setup for balanced look to completed stance.

Skyjacker
Rough Country
Chinese stuff from Amazon

What are we finding the best all around direct bolt on with all replacements for brackets and such so as not to create a problem to fix???

Input appreciated.

This is just my opinion on these trucks ride, @HankScorpio hit the nail on the head about how these trucks ride. Goodish springs that ride decent cost money, tuff country is dookie. Rough country is ok. People seem to like Sky Jacker. ORD makes good springs but they are still a leaf spring. I would avoid off brand name springs. I'm running Zone off road front springs aka BDS springs and rear stock springs with a rear shackle flip with a zero rate spring. good shocks help but it still rides like a Conestoga Wagon going across the prairie in 1857. I'm not sure about 2 inch with 35's , they can fit with enough trimming lol, some one who knows will hopefully comment.

 

[Conner]

Agreed. Different wire adjustments to settings. Wahoo. First patch in.

Since this is hidden, do you just use weld through primer or what is plan to treat metal before outer panel gets welded in?????

View attachment 520872

That area is basically a rain gutter for water that comes off the windshield and into the cowl. When I did mine I marked where the spot welds would be by holding the panel up with the holes pre drilled. Then I taped off the spot weld areas and scuffed/painted (with good spray paint) everything else with several coats. Then removed the tape sprayed weld through primer on the spot weld areas. Then finally welded the panel on.

I had the upper cowl panel off completely at the time so I also added seam sealer in the groove between the side cowl panel and the firewall from the inside of the cowl. You probably won’t be able to reach all the way down the side cowl with the upper cowl still on, but I’d also seam seal that seam as best as you can at the end.

 

[Jon52]

Cross support for tranny while motors out.. good idea or not necessary?

 

[fourwheelerjeff]

This is just my opinion on these trucks ride, @HankScorpio hit the nail on the head about how these trucks ride. Goodish springs that ride decent cost money, tuff country is dookie. Rough country is ok. People seem to like Sky Jacker. ORD makes good springs but they are still a leaf spring. I would avoid off brand name springs. I'm running Zone off road front springs aka BDS springs and rear stock springs with a rear shackle flip with a zero rate spring. good shocks help but it still rides like a Conestoga Wagon going across the prairie in 1857. I'm not sure about 2 inch with 35's , they can fit with enough trimming lol, some one who knows will hopefully comment.

I always heard that backwards; Rough Country lives up to their name; while Tuff Country is softer. For a while ORD sold Tuff Country. Skyjacker soft rides are pretty good for an off the shelf spring; in my opinion. you can look on ORD's site to get an approximation of just how much you want to do and spend. no matter the springs, I would not get the shocks with the springs; spend good money and get good shocks.

Offroad Design Standard Spring Lift Kit for 1973-1991 GM/Chevy Trucks

You must purchase steering correction separately. See the bottom of the page for crossover steering and push/pull options.

www.offroaddesign.com

 

[Cucv_M1008]

I always heard that backwards; Rough Country lives up to their name; while Tuff Country is softer. For a while ORD sold Tuff Country. Skyjacker soft rides are pretty good for an off the shelf spring; in my opinion. you can look on ORD's site to get an approximation of just how much you want to do and spend. no matter the springs, I would not get the shocks with the springs; spend good money and get good shocks.

Offroad Design Standard Spring Lift Kit for 1973-1991 GM/Chevy Trucks

You must purchase steering correction separately. See the bottom of the page for crossover steering and push/pull options.

www.offroaddesign.com

You might be right, I know one of them is not good in any way.

 

[76zimmer]

Agreed with Jeff on the springs. I have Tuff country 6” front springs, stock length (47”?) and they ride pretty smooth with my BBC/T400/doubler, winch, and full cage.

 

[K85 Octane]

Can I suggest a 1" body lift when replacing the body bushings? You may have a fight on your hands getting the bolts out if it's never been done before, FYI.

The body lift is minimal and helps get room around the drivetrain. It frees up 2/ 2.5/ 3" lift options as well. I would stick with all spring lift, no blocks or flips. New parts, factory mounting.

If you are going down the EFI rabbit hole, you have quite a lot of work to do just for that. The fuel system could use fresh parts (Im guessing) so don't buy twice. TBI 87-91 tank, sender, TPI pump and new soft lines to the EFI regulator. That gives you a quiet/ cooler running pump IN the tank.

Im happy with my version 1.0 FAST EFI.
Also happy with Spectra diesel radiator with "Ford Windstar" Spectra fans on my 406. Trans cooler is separate w/ fan. I do not have AC though.

 

[fourwheelerjeff]

Agreed with Jeff on the springs. I have Tuff country 6” front springs, stock length (47”?) and they ride pretty smooth with my BBC/T400/doubler, winch, and full cage.

I also have Tuff Country springs front and rear

 

[Jon52]

Can I suggest a 1" body lift when replacing the body bushings? You may have a fight on your hands getting the bolts out if it's never been done before, FYI.

The body lift is minimal and helps get room around the drivetrain. It frees up 2/ 2.5/ 3" lift options as well. I would stick with all spring lift, no blocks or flips. New parts, factory mounting.

If you are going down the EFI rabbit hole, you have quite a lot of work to do just for that. The fuel system could use fresh parts (Im guessing) so don't buy twice. TBI 87-91 tank, sender, TPI pump and new soft lines to the EFI regulator. That gives you a quiet/ cooler running pump IN the tank.

Im happy with my version 1.0 FAST EFI.
Also happy with Spectra diesel radiator with "Ford Windstar" Spectra fans on my 406. Trans cooler is separate w/ fan. I do not have AC though.

Is this what you’re referring to? Does the addition of these spacers create need to extend anything else like steering wheel shaft parking brake cable etc?

K5 Blazer and Jimmy 1 Inch Body Lift Kits

1" Body lift Includes body lift pucks and bolts/hardware

www.offroaddesign.com

 

[Conner]

Keep in mind everything that "straddles" the body and frame could potentially need tweaking to fit right after a body lift. Bumpers, steering intermediate shaft, column shift linkage, fuel filler, tailgate torsion springs, etc. Not the end of the world, just something to be aware of.

 

[fourwheelerjeff]

Instructions: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_1rlPgRC8V5ffTdBb-U43EQKPSgE73ks/view

threads: https://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/1-ord-body-lift.46844/

ORD 1" Body Lift

ORD 1\" Body Lift I was just reading over the ORD instruction's for the install of the body lift. I have some question's: Step #7 reads: If you are replacing the body bushings be aware that the bracket that holds the bushing inside the frame at position #5 also holds the capture nuts for the...

ck5.com

springs: https://ck5.com/forums/resources/tuff-country-4-hd-ez-ride-front-springs.74/

 

[imiceman44]

Is this what you’re referring to? Does the addition of these spacers create need to extend anything else like steering wheel shaft parking brake cable etc?

K5 Blazer and Jimmy 1 Inch Body Lift Kits

1" Body lift Includes body lift pucks and bolts/hardware

www.offroaddesign.com

View attachment 520923

At only one inch it's minimal adjustments. When I did a 3" it took more work to get everything working right.
I even had to weld an extension to the shifter rod.
No need with a 1"

 

[Jon52]

Help…

So I am so far down in this rabbit hole, I am not sure I can get back out.

Tonight while doing a mild repair I thought “hey man just pull the dash. Make it easier to get at the backside of the firewall”….

Now what the heck did I get myself into????
Do I have to drill a bunch of welds at the top where it meets the window?

 

[Conner]

Yeah the only way to get the metal dash out is drilling spot welds, at least along the pinch weld at the base of the windshield opening (maybe more, I don't remember).

I would avoid taking that out unless you absolutely have to for some reason. I think laying on the floor of the truck to weld/grind the firewall under the dash is easier than pulling/reinstalling the dash. Or at least that's what I did.

Don't panic, you can get this done! It sucks and it's extremely time consuming, but you will get better/faster at it as you go. What helped for me was to mentally organize repair areas into smaller chunks. Focus on the current chunk and not worry too much about the chunks you haven't gotten to yet.

You will probably want to pull your windshield eventually because the pinch weld around the windshield that's hidden by the rubber seal is a common rust area. But again, one chunk at a time...

Also there are cheap fiberglass welding blankets you can get from Amazon, etc that you can use to protect your interior and glass (welding spatter and grinding sparks will ruin glass, ask me how I know...) while doing the rust repair. I'd use them and/or pull stuff out of the truck and get it far away from you when you're working.