Not sure there is a spec, I just tightened them up until I felt everything was drawn together and then put in the set screw. You don't want any play but you don't have to put 200 ft. lbs. into them either.
CK5
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"Hardcore" 89 (Black and Blue). IT RUNS, DRIVES, AND STOPS. BUILD ON HOLD
- Thread starter MTBLAZER89
- Start date
Not sure there is a spec, I just tightened them up until I felt everything was drawn together and then put in the set screw. You don't want any play but you don't have to put 200 ft. lbs. into them either.
that makes sense.
Got my brackets cut for the cross member. Got the lower bar ready for welding. Still need to cut the tube for the X-member and go to te parts store for a Jam nut and a 9/16" bolt. Will have some pics tonight.
Crossmember brackets. These will go inside the body mounts just forward of the spring hangars. I couldn't go forward much more or I started to have more stuff in the way.
I wanted to put the tube up inside the frame rails, but my exhaust on the pass side is preventing that so it goes below for now.
I have enough room to mount the shackle up so everything should be tucked up nice.
Lower bar ready to weld. Notching square tube is a PITA
Mocked up
Crossmember mocked up. I added two flat strips to bolt to the bottom of the frame. Little extra beef never hurt.
I'm going to cut the tube flush with the brackets and cap them off.
All ready for final welding and then I have to drill the holes in the frame.
I wanted to put the tube up inside the frame rails, but my exhaust on the pass side is preventing that so it goes below for now.
I have enough room to mount the shackle up so everything should be tucked up nice.
Lower bar ready to weld. Notching square tube is a PITA
Mocked up
Crossmember mocked up. I added two flat strips to bolt to the bottom of the frame. Little extra beef never hurt.
I'm going to cut the tube flush with the brackets and cap them off.
All ready for final welding and then I have to drill the holes in the frame.
Fred_M1010
1/2 ton status
Looking good
Do you think this type of traction bar have any noticeable negative effect on the flex?
Do you think this type of traction bar have any noticeable negative effect on the flex?
Looks good, how are you making all of your cuts?
Looking good
Do you think this type of traction bar have any noticeable negative effect on the flex?
It shouldn't but we will see I guess. The Ballistic Joint should allow the axle to rotate and the shackle will allow the fore and aft movement as the suspension cycles.
Chop saw and Angle grinder with cut-off wheels for the most part.
Nice, I will have to borrow your design at some point... 
Well I finally got my Ballistic Joint and tube bung issue (thread in the garage) sorted out and got it threaded in all the way.
Made all my final welds on the crossmember and rounded all the edges. Still need to drill holes in the mounts for the bottom of the frame and drill the holes in the frame. Gotta get a new chuck key for my power drill. Not doing it with my cordless
Also gotta cut one small bracket for where the bushing sleeve will mount to the crossmember.
Also have to cut one small piece to brace in between the two tubes on the bar.
Also while I was letting things cool down I decided to work on another issue I was having. Last trip out I snagged what was left of my driver door handle on a tree and it ripped some of the linkage inside the door out
Anyway I finally got my door to close and latch and I locked it to wheel the rest of the day. Well it wouldn't open again, or unlock so I just crawled in and out the back
I have another set of doors, but I needed to get it open to take it off.
Waalaah used a crowbar on the linkage inside and the door opened Now I can remove them, and maybe someday I'll start on my half door project, or I'll just throw my other set of already beat up doors on 
Made all my final welds on the crossmember and rounded all the edges. Still need to drill holes in the mounts for the bottom of the frame and drill the holes in the frame. Gotta get a new chuck key for my power drill. Not doing it with my cordless
Also gotta cut one small bracket for where the bushing sleeve will mount to the crossmember.
Also have to cut one small piece to brace in between the two tubes on the bar.
Also while I was letting things cool down I decided to work on another issue I was having. Last trip out I snagged what was left of my driver door handle on a tree and it ripped some of the linkage inside the door out
Anyway I finally got my door to close and latch and I locked it to wheel the rest of the day. Well it wouldn't open again, or unlock so I just crawled in and out the back
I have another set of doors, but I needed to get it open to take it off.
Waalaah used a crowbar on the linkage inside and the door opened
Now I can remove them, and maybe someday I'll start on my half door project, or I'll just throw my other set of already beat up doors on 
That's a good start on a set of half doors. 
Finally got this thing done. I have been cramming in an hour or two each night all week.
Added some plate at the end of the main bar where the lower tube didn't reach to the end. I only had 10' of 2x2 .250 tube.
I wanted the shackle up from the crossmember to keep everything tucked up as much as possible, and it just barely fits.
Crossmember mocked up.
Marked where the shackle bushing will sit.
All welded and bolted up
I was going to cap the ends of the tube on the crossmember, but I ran out of wire
The pic doesn't really show it, but there is about 3/8" between the joint and the body. Should be fine
Before this if I spun my tires on pavement at all I would get serious wheel hop, and off road was the same. The pavement was a little damp this afternoon so I did a few burnouts in the street
NO wheel hop at all! I'm excited to see how much it helps off road.
Also got my doors off and washed it. My local club is driving in a parade tomorrow so I got er all shined up
Added some plate at the end of the main bar where the lower tube didn't reach to the end. I only had 10' of 2x2 .250 tube.
I wanted the shackle up from the crossmember to keep everything tucked up as much as possible, and it just barely fits.
Crossmember mocked up.
Marked where the shackle bushing will sit.
All welded and bolted up
I was going to cap the ends of the tube on the crossmember, but I ran out of wire
The pic doesn't really show it, but there is about 3/8" between the joint and the body. Should be fine
Before this if I spun my tires on pavement at all I would get serious wheel hop, and off road was the same. The pavement was a little damp this afternoon so I did a few burnouts in the street
NO wheel hop at all!
I'm excited to see how much it helps off road.Also got my doors off and washed it. My local club is driving in a parade tomorrow so I got er all shined up
came out pretty good, I definately will need one when I put my new engine in.
Turned out great. Looks similar to my bar except mine is shackle down and the crossmember is tucked between the frame rails.
Drove in a parade today so I had a chance to play with it a little bit on the pavement
I am assuming its normal for it to push the rear axle downward under hard throttle.
If I tried to powerbrake it would literally raise the rear of my truck 4-5 inches
It looked like I had hydros in the rear when I did it LOL
I am assuming its normal for it to push the rear axle downward under hard throttle.
If I tried to powerbrake it would literally raise the rear of my truck 4-5 inches
It looked like I had hydros in the rear when I did it LOL
burnout videos.
NOW.
NOW.
Drove in a parade today so I had a chance to play with it a little bit on the pavement
I am assuming its normal for it to push the rear axle downward under hard throttle.
If I tried to powerbrake it would literally raise the rear of my truck 4-5 inches
It looked like I had hydros in the rear when I did it LOL
Well, normal due to your design maybe.
What you've ended up with is a lot of what's called anti-squat in the four link world. It has to do with the height of both of your anti-wrap mounts and with the length of it in relation to the location of your leaf springs.
It's one of the reasons for (and one of the things that are generally designed out of) a 4 link suspension.
mudboggink5
1/2 ton status
Nice. Looks good, I think we need some burnout videos!!!
Nice. How much money do you think you've got wrapped up in that project?
Ballistic Joint-45
Tube adaptor-20
3 DIY bushing kits-45
DIY 4" shackles-15
DIY axle brackets-20
10' 2x2 .250 tube~40
3/16" flat bar, wire, hardware~50
Prolly around $250, but I had a bunch of the bushing sleves and all the steel already.
Tube adaptor-20
3 DIY bushing kits-45
DIY 4" shackles-15
DIY axle brackets-20
10' 2x2 .250 tube~40
3/16" flat bar, wire, hardware~50
Prolly around $250, but I had a bunch of the bushing sleves and all the steel already.
Why is this? It seems like it would help with traction.
