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"Hardcore" 89 (Black and Blue). IT RUNS, DRIVES, AND STOPS. BUILD ON HOLD

Overview Gallery Discussion
rdn2blazer said:
Man, I have not poked my head in here in some time. GREAT progress on your rig. Awesome build for damn sure. I'm sure it's been asked and I'm sure you have it in the plans, but with the hard core wheelin you have gotten into, WHEN are you getting a cage in that thing to protect yourself and passengers? Incredable job on the build. Makes me want to get going even harder on mine big time.
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Thanks! Yeah I know I need a cage! I was plannin on buying the S&W cage, but am leaning towards getting a bender now. I was looking at buying Rene's cage, but adapting the old floor style to the new was too much work.

dhcomp said:
Looking good as usual.

I was looking through some old posts, those are 33's on the crew cab?

How wide? Look wider than 33/12.50's to me......but want to know actual size.
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Yeah they are 33x14.50 SSR's. I think the wheels are 16.5x12
 
MTBLAZER89 said:
Thanks! Yeah I know I need a cage! I was plannin on buying the S&W cage, but am leaning towards getting a bender now. I was looking at buying Rene's cage, but adapting the old floor style to the new was too much work.






Yeah, get a bender. You won't regret it. Bending is not hard, you don't need a hydro unit to do a cage. Its OBVIOUS you are ambitious and make good effort on your rig. You will be able to get a cage done easy. Then you will enjoy building your own bumpers and tire carrier too. When you get to that point, since your rig is not full vert, plan out your cage well BEFORE you bend a thing. You won't be able to weld the tops of the tube unless you leave room and have the tube low enough to weld the top seams, which will be too low for sure. There are ways around that type of situation to a certain degree. Any Q's I can help you with I happy to do so. Just hit me up.
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rdn2blazer said:
MTBLAZER89 said:
Thanks! Yeah I know I need a cage! I was plannin on buying the S&W cage, but am leaning towards getting a bender now. I was looking at buying Rene's cage, but adapting the old floor style to the new was too much work.






Yeah, get a bender. You won't regret it. Bending is not hard, you don't need a hydro unit to do a cage. Its OBVIOUS you are ambitious and make good effort on your rig. You will be able to get a cage done easy. Then you will enjoy building your own bumpers and tire carrier too. When you get to that point, since your rig is not full vert, plan out your cage well BEFORE you bend a thing. You won't be able to weld the tops of the tube unless you leave room and have the tube low enough to weld the top seams, which will be too low for sure. There are ways around that type of situation to a certain degree. Any Q's I can help you with I happy to do so. Just hit me up.
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For the interior I was planning on using these.
http://www.summitmachine.com/index.php?p=customParts&cp=tc
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Got all my stuff ordered from Ballistic for the traction bar. Gonna call Kurt tomorrow and order my JKW cap for Hydro and some shackles for the traction bar.

Got some stickers and bling installed before the last trip. Hardly even had to use 4WD after that :wink1::D

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The bling alone means you'll never have to gain respect on the trail again, you already brought it.:haha:
 
Got some plates cut for my trailer deck. My tires hang off a little on each side, and it bugs me trying to center it so I figured I'll add 6" where my tire sits to keep my OCD at bay :haha:

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I will be using the stake pockets as additional support along with the gussets pictured. I know they aren't real big, but there is not much weight riding on these.

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Went and picked up some steel for several different projects.

20' of 2x2 .120 wall, 10' of 2x2 .250 wall, 20' of 2x2 .180 wall, 40' of 3/16 flat bar, 10' of 3/16x1.5 and a couple chunks of 18ga, 1/4 plate, and 1/8 diamond plate.

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4' of 3.5x1" :eek1:

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Same design as yours. Ordered the 2.63 Ballistic joint with Billet races and I already have the axle brackets and bushing sleeves. Just gotta build the x-member and the bar.
 
Got my Ballistic joint and tube adapter today. This thing is massive! :wink1:

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Going wheeling this weekend, but hopefully get started on the traction bar Sunday.
 
when you did shackle flips what size are they?

and when you do 52 inch front springs is it just the rear stock springs off of a blazer?

and what are 56 inch springs? im trying to set mine up so it will be a good trail rig just like yours and i have not much info. so i hope you dont care if i ask a couple of questions
 
kylerj133 said:
when you did shackle flips what size are they?

and when you do 52 inch front springs is it just the rear stock springs off of a blazer?

and what are 56 inch springs? im trying to set mine up so it will be a good trail rig just like yours and i have not much info. so i hope you dont care if i ask a couple of questions
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My shackle flip is an Echobit kit. It is not offered anymore, but the kit from DIY, SKY, ORD are all pretty standard in their design. Give about 4" of lift plus any additional length from longer shackles. The Echobit offered around 5" of lift, but as I mentioned no longer made. You could pick up a used one if you keep your eye out around here.

Yeah my 52's came from the rear of a K5, but were also found on most half ton rigs of this era.

56's come mainly in the 3/4 and 1 ton pickups, but also can be found in the rear of some if not all 3/4 ton Suburbans. Easiest way is to measure eye to eye on the springs.
 
so you have a 4inch shackle flip and additional length from longer shackles?

and how long are your shackles?

and about how much totall lift do you have?

so with the 52 leafs what did you do to them? zero rates, and you added another leaf?
 
No the Echobit kit was supposed offer around 5" of lift.

I run DIY's 7" USDR shackles in the rear.

Because my 56's are nearly flat at ride height I figure I have right around 5 or 6 inches by comparing measurements with my 6" lift on my other truck.

I don't remember exactly, but I explained it earlier in the thread on my 52's. I think I have 4 leaves plus the overload and a zero rate to level it out.

It's a guessing game with running these different leaf packs. It all depends on how many leaves you use, how the pack was treated before you got it, and the arch on the springs.

Average is around 4-5 inches from the 52 swap. For 56's in the rear it all depends on the flip you use and how long the shackles are. Average 4" flip kit with 6 or 7 inch shackles will give you 4-5 inches as well. Use a zero rate to compensate either end if it isnt level.
 
Started on my slider upgrades tonight. Still gotta cut a couple straight pieces to brace and I am going to cut a recessed step for some diamond plate. Thinking about unbolting my sliders and doing a mini boatside when I put them back on as well ;)

2x2 .180 wall for materials.

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have you considered rounding off that corner some more? I tend to prefer the look of bent-tube sliders, but I think it has a practical application to make it a little more easy to slide around the corner. You could give that corner a nice radius and then tack some plate on there and bend it around. :)
 
Yup. I'm gonna hit it with a grinder and smooth that corner out some so it's not a sharp corner then cap the end.
 
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