I ran a very similar system on my K5 when it had leaves and it worked great for a long time, then worked great and broke a lot of other parts on an employees K5 buggy. Even with 1310 joints they can break D60 parts.
CK5
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How much front driveshaft slip?
- Thread starter Mastiff
- Start date
So I took my truck to a local driveline shop this past week. Had the guy come out and take a look at it and he saw nothing that gave him alarm. Said the angles looked fine and nothing a 1350 would ever have an issue with. He spec'd a 4 inch slip which didn't seem enough so I am gonna try and flex it out fully to get an accurate measurement.
Best part is, the price is 50% of what I had been quoted for the 1410
Best part is, the price is 50% of what I had been quoted for the 1410
Actually cycling leafs is by far the best method to surely know how much slip you need, and how much in either direction. You can also set bump stops.
Here is the best info I found.
I use 6" of slip through 12" of travel on my front end. I trust cycling over an opinion from someone.
Ride height
Springs broken down to main leaf to cycle.
Bump
Droop
Here is the best info I found.
I use 6" of slip through 12" of travel on my front end. I trust cycling over an opinion from someone.
Ride height
Springs broken down to main leaf to cycle.
Bump
Droop
If only we all had a lift at our disposal. 
Even at that, you might get more extension while articulated since the diff is offset. I've never shown this with actual measurements, but it seems possible.
Even at that, you might get more extension while articulated since the diff is offset. I've never shown this with actual measurements, but it seems possible.
If only we all had a lift at our disposal.
Even at that, you might get more extension while articulated since the diff is offset. I've never shown this with actual measurements, but it seems possible.
It definitely helps, but you don't need it.
I did my rear axle cycling on the ground. Its a little more time consuming, but not all that bad.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
If only we all had a lift at our disposal.
Even at that, you might get more extension while articulated since the diff is offset. I've never shown this with actual measurements, but it seems possible.
Yes, you will see significant differences when articulated because of that off center pumpkin. I was going to do the cycling thing when i bought my last driveshaft the guy i got it from was an OG who told me he had it covered. Turns out he was right on the money lol Upon calling around to have a shaft made it was apparent that some guys just make shafts and others really understand the components/concept of whats going on under the truck.
4" won't be enough unless you limit travel.
Even after you cycle you need to add another inch or more into the equation. I thought I was fine with my setup until I was backing down an off camber hill on the Rubicon, passenger side drooped, probably had some axle wrap as I was on the brakes and she came apart.
On the trail you have axle wrap and frame twisting that won't be replicated with a floor jack your driveway.
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
This ^
If it needs 4 inch to "work" then it needs 6 inches...may as well go 8" lol
If it needs 4 inch to "work" then it needs 6 inches...may as well go 8" lol
I just showed that mine uses 6" And I got an 8" slip to be safe.
And that is just for static travel, as im not concerned about flex. But everyone should consider static in any situation.
Articulation will use less slip than straight up and down travel since the diff is inside the leaf spring. If it was outside the spring like a shock measuring when articulated would matter. Think of it this way: start at full droop and if either tire goes up, the diff will also go up. Therefore....Full droop is as far down as the pinion can go.
Haha I win fockers 
wetoolowdingbangow
1/2 ton status
I'm not sure I fully believe that. Not saying I'm right but in a situation where your driver side is fully stuffed and your passengers side is hanging it's potentially being forced lower then full droop. I'm talking leaf springs.
You don't argue with Lord Stephen...
Nope Stephen is absolutely right. I have done both on the same truck. The articulated measurement was just slightly less than static rebound.
Usually easier for me to just articulate stuff though.
I don't have enough up travel for anything high speed
Usually easier for me to just articulate stuff though.
I don't have enough up travel for anything high speed
That makes things quite a bit easier to measure then. Just jack up the truck until you have full droop.
I did that, didn't work.
Maybe it's axle wrap, maybe it's drive train moving around, I don't know but it separated on me when I was backing down some rocks.
I was wondering the same thing. Full droop has the weight of the axle pulling down, where articulation may motivate one side to go further down. Not sure... having said that, doing full droop with only the main leaves probably covers it, vs. just hanging the axle from the full spring packs.
The point that was best said,
The range of motion from the diff is less. Even if it is motivated to move further than articulation, you are still only going as far a full droop....maybe.
The range of motion from the diff is less. Even if it is motivated to move further than articulation, you are still only going as far a full droop....maybe.
