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Is this a D44 or D60?

The Butcher said:
So do either of you think this is worth $5,200? Been talking to him a couple days. Nice guy in a bad spot due to medical issues. He's had lots of tire kickers and low ballers, and he's getting pretty frustrated.

https://houston.craigslist.org/cto/d/1985-chevy-k5-silverado/6759478458.html
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Oh yeah, I was looking at this on Craigslist the other day. It's a memorable one and seems way worth that price to me. If he's telling the truth about the rebuild thats an enticing aspect. I had 3/4 ton axles under my first blazer and romped that thing. Never broke. I say go for it
 
I brought it home this afternoon. It was about what I was expecting. Decent shape, but needs some TLC. Transfer case is leaking pretty good, and it will go in 4 wheel drive, but doesn't seem to go into 4 low. Motor sounds good and seems to run well. I was skeptical about the motor rebuild, but I think it's legit. Gears are probably on 3.73 or maybe 4.10 if I had to guess. Definitely not 4.56. Needs a new steering box, and I'll throw a brace on it while I'm at it. Need to raise the bumpers to match the body lift. Has some sliders, but they are bolted to the pinch welds, not the frame anywhere. I need to make a step of some sort to get in it. I'm tall, but I don't want to hike my leg to the moon each time to get into it. Might have to turn this thread into a build thread.

IMG_3820.JPG
 
Hell thats a cool place to start, i would get rid of the body lift,

Also interesting way to tie the blazer to the trailer, wouldn't it have been a lot safer to just go around the axles?
 
H20 Toie said:
Hell thats a cool place to start, i would get rid of the body lift,

Also interesting way to tie the blazer to the trailer, wouldn't it have been a lot safer to just go around the axles?
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I've thought of ditching the body lift, but I'd have to hack the fenders even more than they are, and I'm not sure I want to go that route. Kind of undecided on that. It's not much work to move the bumpers up, and I could always bring them back down. I want to install some receiver tubes in the front to make a tow bar anyway, and want to take them off to blast and paint. Kind of just leaning towards that right now.

Those straps are made specifically for hauling vehicles in that fashion. I've done it dozens and dozens of times, and it really is the best way to strap down a vehicle in my opinion. All 4 points are secure, and the straps aren't lashed across any potential sharp points that could cut them. The buckle end has 2 foot long chains to drop through the trailer pockets and hook into the next pocket over. I love that set up.
 
if np205 they dont like to hit 4wd low easy with body lift without moding the floor hole for the shifter .

and yes those tire straps and just for use like that . roll back tow trucks use them a lot now since there is less and less places to hook under a vehicle now .
 
Those tire straps do work better than chaining the frame down --no matter how tight you put chains or straps to the frame ,the springs can still flex when the carrier goes over a good bump,and possibly come off or loosen..
Chain or straps around the axle does work well also,not much different than using the tire straps..harder to put them on the axles ,you wont have to crawl under the vehicle using the tire straps..
 
its been found that tires strapped down is better now so the vehicles suspension does its job flexing and the tires stay put on the bed of the rollback / trailer / car hauler .
 
This is a 208, is it not? 1985 is the year of the truck, but not sure if this is the original TC. It's slinging oil everywhere, and the mount is shot, so it's coming out and getting gone through ASAP. The floor has a pretty decent sized hole cut in, and a homemade/aftermarket boot installed. Which reminds me, the boot is torn so I need to order one of those.

Rockauto and O'Reilly tab so far for today is just under $500. Steering gear box, brake booster, TC mount, tailgate cables, hood latch, steering coupler. Should get $100 back in cores. I need to get a spreadsheet going on this so I don't get out of hand. Oh yeah, and the cheapy LED I ordered on Amazon for side and rear lighting. Guess I should add those to the list, but don't recall what I spent. Less than $100 for sure.

IMG_3830.JPG
 
Where's the hole in the floor? Did it used to have a clocked TC?
 
Score on that one for sure. The tailshaft looked shorter than the 205 going in my Wife's dually, so that's why I was thinking it wasn't a 205. Pleased about that! I'll get a pic of the floor today when I get back to my shop. It looks wide enough for a twin-stick, and plenty of space forward to hit 4 lo.
 
I was able to get this pic of the floor cut out from the CL listing. I assume the smaller front hole that's patched was for a floor shift for a manual trans that must have been in it at some point. I'm guessing that torn boot replacement would be LMC part number 30-1944. Anyone think otherwise?

Floor Cut Out.jpg
 
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not a stock shifter boot .

and someone has been in that 205 with the rtv all over it . 205 need gaskets to set end play on the bearings NOT just rtv . and if you use rtv it can plug the oil drain holes and make them puke fluid out past the seals .

fyi that a 6 bolt round 205 worth good cash . since its got the short adapter thats what it should be .
 
sweetk30 said:
not a stock shifter boot .

and someone has been in that 205 with the rtv all over it . 205 need gaskets to set end play on the bearings NOT just rtv . and if you use rtv it can plug the oil drain holes and make them puke fluid out past the seals .

fyi that a 6 bolt round 205 worth good cash . since its got the short adapter thats what it should be .
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How much cash?
 
just bare round 6 pattern cases bring the bucks . not near as many made out there over fig 8 . and guys who like to go nv4500 or others like them for bolt on and go options .
 
The Butcher said:
I was able to get this pic of the floor cut out from the CL listing. I assume the smaller front hole that's patched was for a floor shift for a manual trans that must have been in it at some point. I'm guessing that torn boot replacement would be LMC part number 30-1944. Anyone think otherwise?

View attachment 287461
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Yeah this was a 465/208 now 700r4/205 or possibly 400/205 since the tcase is most likely a 32 spline.
The square plate is to cover the original 208 shifter hole area.
 
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