CK5
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I had to get home with it, eat, and then my parents stopped by. I was texting @Bent77 while they walked in..

Yes, I am pissy about it, but my attitude is improving!
I swapped the coil, ICM, and MAP sensor out one at a time, even unplugged the tach, no change. I have to do more diagnosing tomorrow since I have it home with my tools.
 
I had to get home with it, eat, and then my parents stopped by. I was texting @Bent77 while they walked in..

Yes, I am pissy about it, but my attitude is improving!
I swapped the coil, ICM, and MAP sensor out one at a time, even unplugged the tach, no change. I have to do more diagnosing tomorrow since I have it home with my tools.
Hope you get it fixed.
 
Grounds, battery cables?
I don't believe so, since I just went through swapping the body, and @500$k5 has trained me a fair amount. But those are so simple to check, too.
I have a plan for what to look at tomorrow. I have lots-o-parts here to try if I don't find something definite.
I don't have any way to read data, as far as I know, because I don't know what bin file this chip is using. I do have plenty of stock chips, so if it still is off after more diagnostic work, it will try that. I can swap a stock pump into it on short matter too, since there is an access panel in the back.
 
I even have a TBI unit with an adjustable regulator here...
Or I could use the vacuum referenced one...
 
Well I already put my vote in the secret envelope
 
Ok, so obviously I have been quiet in this thread. I wasn't able to get it running to a decent level, in order to make Moab. I even discovered why the hood wasn't closing well. I forgot about the hood safety latch when mounting the transmission cooler, and ruined it with the latch.
:doah:

I now have a new one, but I haven't installed it.
I have to get that done and then do some more digging into what's happening with the injection. Lots of guys are offering some help, which I appreciate, and will get hopefully use to figure it out!
 
I did the same thing with the trans cooler and the hood latch.
Sure wish that you could have stopped me, cuz I know that I wouldn't have remembered from your build thread, or unless you told me on the day that I mounted it.
But, I have a new, thinner and narrower one here, since the 1st one was so large.
 
I'm not jumping to that yet, planning on trying to tune the TBI first. It should be cheaper than a sniper system, since all that has changed are the heads and headers. And I have other places to spend money for now.
 
Ok, so obviously I have been quiet in this thread. I wasn't able to get it running to a decent level, in order to make Moab. I even discovered why the hood wasn't closing well. I forgot about the hood safety latch when mounting the transmission cooler, and ruined it with the latch.
:doah:

I did the same thing with the trans cooler and the hood latch.

Me too.
 
So I don't really have a reason to bump this, because I haven't made any progress with how it runs. I turned the fuel pressure down as far as it would go, which was 11.5 PSI. Still runs basically the same when driving as it did at 17lbs, only the idle went from rich to lean.
The new trans cooler got installed, but no celebration since I can't get it running better yet. I found another connection to help tune it, but haven't talked with the guy yet. It was not a great week at work, and other crap going on...

So today I checked out the temperature difference between the black and silver tops. I still have a spare K5 sitting here with a black top. So I checked what the difference was on the inside. It was 85* here today, with a decent breeze. The black top was 126* on the inside with the rear window down, the silver was 105*. The outside was 30* cooler on the silver, but I don't know how the temp gun would read accurately on the different colors. I have found differences before with just color.
So even though I saw 52* difference in the outside the other day, I feel confident that in saying that the color dropped 15-20 degrees off of the interior skin temperature.
I hope that I appreciate it in the long run.
 
Yes, that's what I have found. Putting a piece of black tape on aluminum makes the reading different.
This is why I checked the inside temps. I hope that it translates to a more comfortable interior.
But the outside is entertaining! When the top was sitting on the concrete at work, it read 160* with the concrete being 102*. The inside was 140*, and this was when it was about 85*. I am not sure what all comes into play because a black steel flatbed was reading 119* at that time.
So maybe the steel sheds heat faster.
 
So I haven't made any stellar progress with how it runs.
Talked to a guy locally who likes Harris Performance, but admits that his chips aren't 100%. So I stopped there.
I have swapped out basically all of the TBI parts with no changes. Did a data-log and sent it to Troy at Howell. He said that everything looked good, and then asked if I had driveability problems...
:doah:
He apparently forgot the conversation I had with him on the phone.
Anyway, after a couple more emails , he said that I should set base timing to 10-12*.
That made a noticeable difference compared to 0* where I had it. It had started to stumble and sometimes die when I touched the gas pedal to drive away from a rolling corner, or after going to drive from neutral. This started since outside temperatures came down into the upper 40's when I was driving it.
After adjusting the timing, it still stumbles badly in the lower rpm range at part throttle, but it will actually go to WOT now, and pull decently!!!!
Idle vacuum is fairly steady now at 15.5" warm engine.
But still isn't really driveable.

So I have talked with @Bent77 about this thing, and am having mental problems with what to do. I really want to be able to make changes easier than I can with the 7747 ECM. I am not versed in what to do with Tunerpro to change the tables and emulate, even though I have the capability with hardware. I don't have a larger throttle body, let alone one in good shape. The stock bore one is going to be a limiting factor in the upper rpm range. Upgrading this is going to cost $.
I saw where @Mastiff converted his ECM by sending it to Dynamic EFI to be able to reflash on the fly. That upgrade alone is $400 plus shipping both ways. This still leaves me with a somewhat slow ECM, but it's less expensive than a new EFI system.
But what all of this rambling is about, is I am having a difficult time NOT seeing a new 4V EFI system being a better long term solution. However, I am still unsure of which one. I am very curious about the Edelbrock Proflo 4. It has sequential injection, and intake air temp sensor. It comes with a distributor to let the ECM control timing. The ECM is remote mounted, which I like. A cheaper system without timing control is a step backwards from my factory configuration.
I don't remember ever getting a bad product from Edelbrock, even considering that their carbs aren't tuned for my elevation.
But there isn't much feedback out there on this system, and I assume mostly because it isn't widely purchased.
I am still curious how Holley treats @mrk5 with his being out of warranty.
And I am slightly worried about durability of Fitech as well.

So, knowing that I don't have cash in my paw to buy a new system, but I could pay back my savings account, I would like to overoverthink this in case I pull the trigger.

What's your thoughts???
 
buy hockey pucks


I'm curious about the edelbrock. Hopefully theres some feedback here
 
I would stay away from the the Eddy EFI stuff. The short of my experience is:
Have a buddy that put that on a gmt400, never could get it right even with the tech lines help, tech line wasn't super helpful.
Dumped it for a fast system.
Good ever since.
Good to know. Do you remember how long ago?
And I wondered about FAST. A buddy told me that he thinks that he knows someone with an unused one for sale.
 
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