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Jimmy B. ( parts from Bruiser)

Using a proven wheeling truck with another driving truck, plus more parts.
Overview Gallery Discussion
beags86 said:
Don't worry about slathering the whole door panel and 100 Mill thick stuff.

Just do a good section of the inside of the door. Just to firm up the sound of the doors. They will closer nicer, keep some sound out and heat and cool better.
Everyone get wrapped up in seeing other guys do the 100% coverage.
10sqft is 25 bucks of Amazon. And that would be enough to do both doors.
Hell, it would be super tough to do it 100% snaking your arms through all the stupid holes on the inner skin anyways.

If nothing else just put a little under the door panel. And not worry about the outer door skin.

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I hadn't thought about checking Amazon, I looked at the cheap stuff on Summit, then decided against it since I already had spent money on the new parts, (window glass, too!) I may rethink this a little after I get a number for the tint work.

You bring up a great question though, as I saw @HINZ28 put some on the inner panel, right under the door panel. He noted a difference, but I am curious about what difference there could be installing it on the inner or outer door metal. Do you have any idea?
I firmly believe that you are correct about some is better none, and total coverage isn't necessary.
 
You can get precut window tint kits off Amazon or eBay. Super easy if you have the glass out already. I did one once on my wife's mustang. Just make sure you get the good limo tint that's actually black and not purple.
 
Just remember that adding the damping material adds mass to the panel, making it more difficult for sound and vibration to move the panel and transfer sound into the interior of the vehicle. Manufacturers have to balance between adding weight to a vehicle to reduce noise versus losing fuel economy. For that reason, most manufacturers don’t go overboard with sound deadening.

That said, a little can go along ways.
I would, at a minimum get a roll or two and slap some panels up.
The sound/speaker guys have all kinds of methods and different products for different results. Us, as general hot rodders are, we just use the butyl based foil backed stuff and are happy with it for our purposes. But there are butyl products with a foam added that are supposedly better for door skins. They help reduce the rattles even more.
There are also acoustical absorber blocks you can over top of the foil faced deadening. But I suspect that's probably getting further then you need for a trail truck.
Fwiw. I put that fatmat in my Stepside.
 
Truckman4life said:
You can get precut window tint kits off Amazon or eBay. Super easy if you have the glass out already. I did one once on my wife's mustang. Just make sure you get the good limo tint that's actually black and not purple.
Click to expand...
If the windows are out I would think damn near any idiot could do it themselves.
It's just a sticker at that point.
Hell, I frosted my sliding glass doors myself with a kit. We had a peeping tom around our neighborhood for a while and wanted to have light and not worry about a pervert looking in.
 
I have no problem trimming the tint myself, but I have a problem with dust getting in while applying it. I live in the desert with an actual gravel pit across the street, and I don't like dust under the tint. I also feel that the shop that I have used has more durable tint than I have found in the store. While I know that I could save a little money, I have been happier in the long run getting them done professionally. My wife's 2011 Acadia has only had the film replaced on one window due to a scratch in the 9 years that she has had it. They offered a warranty which covered scratches!
I am hoping that good film will last longer on a truck that will see lots of dust and window up and down cycles.

I appreciate the input guys!

:waytogo:
 
So since @beags86 suggested the fat mat off of Amazon, I got to digging around and found lots of reviews of it and a brand called Noico. It is 80 mils thick, cheap, and seemed to have just a couple fewer reviews complaining about the adhesive or melting. But it had lots of good reviews too. Having a partially black truck, I decided to try it and see if it works. Time will tell if Beags get to give me crap about it!
:haha:

It was supposed to take over a week from the Ebay listing, it showed up in 2 days, in an Amazon box. :dunno: $24 shipped and taxed.
Thanks for the help Beags!

And appointment for the tint is Thursday , he told me about $100..
:waytogo:

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6872xtc said:
So since @beags86 suggested the fat mat off of Amazon, I got to digging around and found lots of reviews of it and a brand called Noico. It is 80 mils thick, cheap, and seemed to have just a couple fewer reviews complaining about the adhesive or melting. But it had lots of good reviews too. Having a partially black truck, I decided to try it and see if it works. Time will tell if Beags get to give me crap about it!
:haha:

It was supposed to take over a week from the Ebay listing, it showed up in 2 days, in an Amazon box. :dunno: $24 shipped and taxed.
Thanks for the help Beags!

And appointment for the tint is Thursday , he told me about $100..
:waytogo:

View attachment 330378
Click to expand...
Noico has been suggested a few times here as a cheap decent option.
 
The windows got tinted, insulation installed on the inside of the door skin with the extra pieces cut up and used on the inner panel.
Started on the installation of relays for the window motors. Crimp and soldered all the connections.

Spent over an hour in the last 2 days talking with Troy at Tom Woods, (awesome to talk with!!) and ordered a new front shaft today. The one that was with this doubler was 1350 CV and pinion yoke, but only 3.5" of slip travel. The yoke at the pinion was binding and I had pulled the slip apart once.
Informed the finance department that there was a bill and delivery pending since she will be home due to the virus scare.
She took the news very well!!
:cool:

20200319_163016.jpg

20200319_171612.jpg
 
6872xtc said:
The windows got tinted, insulation installed on the inside of the door skin with the extra pieces cut up and used on the inner panel.
Started on the installation of relays for the window motors. Crimp and soldered all the connections.

Spent over an hour in the last 2 days talking with Troy at Tom Woods, (awesome to talk with!!) and ordered a new front shaft today. The one that was with this doubler was 1350 CV and pinion yoke, but only 3.5" of slip travel. The yoke at the pinion was binding and I had pulled the slip apart once.
Informed the finance department that there was a bill and delivery pending since she will be home due to the virus scare.
She took the news very well!!
:cool:

View attachment 333293

View attachment 333294
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:sign6:
 
Bent77 said:
@6872xtc
When we were talking about limit straps, this is where mine is installed full droop. Still have 1.5” travel on the shock. This is with a jack under the drivers side, but the axle didn’t drop much lower with the drivers side loaded

View attachment 333365
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I am considering putting a tab farther rearward somehow to counteract axle wrap under power. Not quite sure how, but I want to check out how things look when the new shaft shows up.
 
6872xtc said:
I am considering putting a tab farther rearward somehow to counteract axle wrap under power. Not quite sure how, but I want to check out how things look when the new shaft shows up.
Click to expand...
You will get some axle wrap. But considering your driving style, it’s less likely than some. Truth be told the only thing you have that’s a concern is the driveshaft joint at the pinion. As we talked yesterday, you are going to gain 2-3*

Strap it, and be done. Mine at droop is 18.5” from the bottom of the factory bump bracket to the top of the axle, for reference
 
Well the superflex u-joint and the extended yokes appear to be the cure so far. No marks at all from binding after running a couple of trails outside of Montrose. I like the new tires, too!
Went out with a '90 Willys, and a Chevota!

:saweet:

I had to work some compared to them as they both are linked front and rear, plus the size difference.. there were a couple of times when I was told, don't try my line! :doah: :haha:

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Part621.jpg

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Oh, and while lots of guys on here do much more daring obstacles, this looked a little intimidating when I got to it. It took some wiggling to get the rear end over to the right far enough to get up it this.
Front bumper works well!!! Even carried a little rock chip home. Haha!
:saweet:

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campfire said:
<sarcasm>

Such an impressive amount of carnage... :rolleyes:

</sarcasm>
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See additional carnage in the picture in post #1117.
:D
I didn't even post a picture of the horrendous dents!
There is one in the sliver, just below where the clear coat is falling off, and one in the lower edge of the wheel opening.

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