What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Jolene - 1965 Chevy Impala Cruiser

Overview Gallery Discussion
I also found another reference that the 327/power glide would be just under 3800 lb curb weight.

So the 1.0' bore master, 2.5' bore caliper, and 10.5" front rotor all match the specs of a 1978 Monte Carlo that is approx 500 lb lighter.
 
kennyw said:
The 1965 Impala weights about 3500 lb
78 Monte Carlo about 3200 lb
79 Camaro about 3300 lb
1968 the Impala got larger with a curb weight over 4000 lb.

So i think the 1" master would match up well with the 2.5" caliper but 1.125 would be slightly more brake pressure with the same caliper.

Factory disc brakes were not introduced until 1969 for the Impala. That car used a 1.0 or 1.125 bore with a 2.9 or 3.0 bore.
Click to expand...

Wes Harden said:
also the Imp has the larger bolt circle than the Camero or Monte, and larger rotors. I would have thought the 67 would have been an option for disc brakes, like the Camero and Chevelle
Click to expand...

kennyw said:
My kit uses a 10.5' dia rotor from the 78 Monte vs 11.0" of the 78 Camaro or 11.7" of the 69 Impala. It uses a caliper from a 1990 celebrity that just happens to be similar to the 78 Camaro in bore size. I expect the celebrity application uses a dinky rotor and weights half as much so it isn't worth comparing.

I chose this kit as it doesn't change the track width unlike other kits that use larger rotors. I didn't want to worry about my wheels no longer fitting. This kit will also fit 14" steel wheels but I'm running 15" aluminum wheels so I don't expect any clearance issue there.

Although, I got the relationship between master bore and pressure backwards. Larger bore generates less breaking pressure at the caliperbut requires less travel to move the same fluid volume. So now I'm leaning towards the 1.0" bore. I think either could work.
Click to expand...

Disc brakes were first offered on the '67 Impala. Also, the Impalas used the same 4.75" bolt pattern as the other Chevrolets, through 1970. '69-'70 Impalas did use a different bearing size though. I've always been of the opinion that the typical swap kits using the G-body rotors was a bit undersized for an Impala. They tend not to stop as well as the factory disc brake cars. Better than the drum brake cars sure, but mostly because brake fade is a big issue with the drum brake cars.

Now, as far as the Celebrity calipers... you aren't limited to just 1990. Celebrities came with light duty and heavy duty brakes. 1990 was the last model year and they were all station wagons, which came standard with the HD brakes. But the HD brakes were available from '82-'90 and they are easy to tell apart. The HD brakes use a 115mm (4.5" basically) wheel bolt pattern, while the lighter brakes used a 100mm (4") wheel bolt pattern. Celebrity, Century, Ciera, 6000, and '90-'91 dustbuster vans all used the same HD calipers.

If they will be useful to you, I've had many Celebrities over the years and should have some extra calipers. Pretty sure I still have the ones from my '86 coupe, from when I put '92+ van brakes on it. I also have a '70 Caprice (disc) parts car, I can yank the master cylinder and measure the bore.
 
I ordered a kit that came with all of the parts, in brand new condition. I was just running (rambling) through the specs on what the kit pieced together trying to figure out a master cylinder that didn't come with the kit.

The kit supplier recommended a 1" bore master for manual brakes and 1.125" for power brakes.

This kit was put together with the goal of keeping the original spindles, using parts readily available at the parts store, maintaining the same track width, and protecting for the use of 14" steel wheels. I do not care about 14" wheels, but the other parameters are good for this application at this time. It will be an improvement over the drums but not drive changes to the wheels that I want to keep.

Now I need to figure out what master to order.
The Willwood looks good and would match the planned trim on the engine but has smaller ports that require adapters.
Screenshot_20240924_225026_Chrome.jpg

The standard dual reservoir GM master plus aftermarket prop valve looks like the easy route, but more plain looking.
Screenshot_20240924_225013_Chrome.jpg
 
kennyw said:
I ordered a kit that came with all of the parts, in brand new condition. I was just running (rambling) through the specs on what the kit pieced together trying to figure out a master cylinder that didn't come with the kit.

The kit supplier recommended a 1" bore master for manual brakes and 1.125" for power brakes.

This kit was put together with the goal of keeping the original spindles, using parts readily available at the parts store, maintaining the same track width, and protecting for the use of 14" steel wheels. I do not care about 14" wheels, but the other parameters are good for this application at this time. It will be an improvement over the drums but not drive changes to the wheels that I want to keep.

Now I need to figure out what master to order.
The Willwood looks good and would match the planned trim on the engine but has smaller ports that require adapters.
View attachment 487158

The standard dual reservoir GM master plus aftermarket prop valve looks like the easy route, but more plain looking.
View attachment 487159
Click to expand...
Where'd you buy your kit? I saw Mike Garcia Restoration Parts but had a tough time finding an online store front. Thanks!
 
Started on suspension work and disc brake swap today.

Front suspension assembled but not torque. Disc brake kit went well except one rotor was a poorly machined casting that rubbed enough that grinding was required on one bolt head. Rear suspension disassembled, but that was the stopping point for the night.

20250513_125736.jpg

20250513_125744.jpg

20250513_133755.jpg

20250513_133808.jpg

20250513_194112.jpg

20250513_194117.jpg
 
Are those brake lines from the master flattened out?

Those springs will settle a little, and if too tall you can always snip a little off.
 
Second box from summit had the same issue as the first, wrong springs in the right box. CPP apparently made the decision 58-64 springs will work in 65-70 applications.

Ordered another set from performance online, didn't realize they were the same part number as CPP until the box arrived. they also look wrong. The Pic is side by side with a cut down stock spring.

20250620_184730.jpg

20250620_185039.jpg
 
How much was cut from the stock spring? The stock spring appears to be made from a thicker wire?
 
I need to figure out the specs for a stock spring. I didn't cut the original springs, so I'm not completely sure how much was cut out. PO said it was 2 coils.
 
kennyw said:
I need to figure out the specs for a stock spring. I didn't cut the original springs, so I'm not completely sure how much was cut out. PO said it was 2 coils.
Click to expand...

Two coils would put it taller than the lowering spring, plus the stock coil looks like thicker wire.

These cars always had a somewhat nose-high attitude in stock form. For whatever reason, aftermarket stock replacement springs always put them WAY nose high. When I got my '69 in the late 90's, it had new springs all around. Somewhere I have pictures of when I bought it. But the first thing I did was get some spring clamps/expanders from JC Whitney, clamped the fronts and expanded the rears. It looked like this:
2020-11-06_10-03-39.jpg2020-11-06_10-02-07.jpg

Really what I'm getting at is, your car looks to have a similar rake compared to original, just a little lower overall. But it's also kind of hard to tell in the pictures.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom