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K10: Built HP60/241-205 Doubler/tons of tube

i started reading this build thread this morning and found myself wanting to come back to it when i got home tonight after i picked up a 14b ff for my k5 what you have done is amazing and gives me hope for my truck keep up the good work! let me know how you like the heater i have been wanting to run something similer
 
i started reading this build thread this morning and found myself wanting to come back to it when i got home tonight after i picked up a 14b ff for my k5 what you have done is amazing and gives me hope for my truck keep up the good work! let me know how you like the heater i have been wanting to run something similer

Will do. I got it mounted yesterday and I was going to mess with it today a bit too.
 
Borrowed a 1" square die from a friend so I could start figuring out my dash. Figured some square tube would be something different than everything else on here and work nicely.

IMAG1408_zpsaed35a88.jpg



Right now I'm thinking a center protrusion for a switch panel then two "L" shaped pieces that tie into the sides of it and go to towards the doors then up to the main legs of the "A" pillar to make the two side panels of the dash.

IMAG1416_zps590ffa56.jpg


Patched a big factory grommet hole and mounted those bulkhead fittings. Here's the engine side...
IMAG1415_zps6b11b3ee.jpg


Here's the inside. I also notched the plastic housing and flipped the computer around to get the harness pointing towards the center of the new dash area...
IMAG1414_zps3d527c82.jpg


Got the heater mounted up flat against the firewall. I had to notch the right side where the factory HVAC pulled fresh air in but it made it fit so I went with it.
IMAG1411_zps6ac4cd7a.jpg


Started a serious layout of how I'm going to wire all this up. Basically I'll have 12 switches that fire relays that are terminated in blocks. The relays pull power through individually fused circuits and the switches pull power through a fused panel that's switched with the main cutoff so when you turn the main switch off it kills everything. I also have one constant hot fused panel for a couple things like powering the computer (so it won't lose it's memory every time I turn the main switch off) and stuff like the CB and maybe some LED "camp lights" mounted around the cage that I would want on and not killed with the kill switch.

IMAG1409_zps0df60458.jpg


We have a wheeling trip tentatively scheduled for the end of April so it's go time again! I need to finish this dash, get the trans TV cable replaced and get the yet to be ordered shifter setup, make one crossmember to replace the hanging too low "W" shaped one and get some tires... ready go. :)
 
Borrowed a 1" square die from a friend so I could start figuring out my dash. Figured some square tube would be something different than everything else on here and work nicely.

IMAG1408_zpsaed35a88.jpg



Right now I'm thinking a center protrusion for a switch panel then two "L" shaped pieces that tie into the sides of it and go to towards the doors then up to the main legs of the "A" pillar to make the two side panels of the dash.

IMAG1416_zps590ffa56.jpg


Patched a big factory grommet hole and mounted those bulkhead fittings. Here's the engine side...
IMAG1415_zps6b11b3ee.jpg


Here's the inside. I also notched the plastic housing and flipped the computer around to get the harness pointing towards the center of the new dash area...
IMAG1414_zps3d527c82.jpg


Got the heater mounted up flat against the firewall. I had to notch the right side where the factory HVAC pulled fresh air in but it made it fit so I went with it.
IMAG1411_zps6ac4cd7a.jpg


Started a serious layout of how I'm going to wire all this up. Basically I'll have 12 switches that fire relays that are terminated in blocks. The relays pull power through individually fused circuits and the switches pull power through a fused panel that's switched with the main cutoff so when you turn the main switch off it kills everything. I also have one constant hot fused panel for a couple things like powering the computer (so it won't lose it's memory every time I turn the main switch off) and stuff like the CB and maybe some LED "camp lights" mounted around the cage that I would want on and not killed with the kill switch.

IMAG1409_zps0df60458.jpg


We have a wheeling trip tentatively scheduled for the end of April so it's go time again! I need to finish this dash, get the trans TV cable replaced and get the yet to be ordered shifter setup, make one crossmember to replace the hanging too low "W" shaped one and get some tires... ready go. :)

you make that heater or buy it somewheres?? i need to get something like that for my truck.
 
I went to one about 6 yrs ago... it's about 1/5th the size of a factory setup...
 
My new shifter came in today along with a fixed CO2 regulator all from Polyperformance...

IMAG1418_zps55b25bdc.jpg


Finally made a decision on my dash. I was trying to avoid going beneath the column and make it super small and tight but it was just that, too tight. The gauges would have been really cramped so I tucked it under and laid it a little more flat in the process so the angle on the gauges should be good.
The little bent piece behind the dash is going to be a shelf. The center section will be split about 2/3 of the way down from the top so the lower part will have my ARB switches, heater controls and CB while the upper with be the main switch panel.

The fused buss bars, relays and other misc stuff will sit on that shelf so it's clean from the front side yet easily accessible still.

IMAG1422_zpsca2f17a8.jpg

IMAG1421_zpsdfeae13b.jpg

IMAG1419_zps859bd857.jpg
 
Where does the radio go?

Martin

I picked up a 7th gen iPod nano a while back when my trusty old brick of an iPod died on me. The cool thing is it has an integrated FM tuner too that works really well so the plan someday is to just use the iPod as the stereo. There's some companies that make harnesses that let you go directly from the iPod to an amp and keep it charged as well.

I use it in my DD Dodge hardwired to my head unit and it's really nice, no commercials and endless playlists.
 
Are you gonna pick up those tire off pirate? I was actually looking at them and then saw you were interested.
 
Are you gonna pick up those tire off pirate? I was actually looking at them and then saw you were interested.

I'm not sure. I called him but he didn't answer. Here's how I look at it though, I can get new 39.5" iroks for about $1600 and I have some stock 16.5's I could turn into diy beadlocks for pretty cheap.

Seems like that might be better because it would give me the option of going to recentered h1's someday without changing tires and obviously they'd be new tires. Plus I'm just not sure on the whole aluminum beadlock deal, they're proven and nice but might just not be right for me.
 
I wouldn't mind having a set of those Walker Evans beadlocks. I think they're really tough. I've had a set of aluminum wheels on one of my old four cylinder 4x4s, and I could really notice a major difference in the ride quality and even acceleration vs. steel wheels on the same truck with same tires. I don't know if it would be the right thing for you though.
 
I'm not sure. I called him but he didn't answer. Here's how I look at it though, I can get new 39.5" iroks for about $1600 and I have some stock 16.5's I could turn into diy beadlocks for pretty cheap.

Seems like that might be better because it would give me the option of going to recentered h1's someday without changing tires and obviously they'd be new tires. Plus I'm just not sure on the whole aluminum beadlock deal, they're proven and nice but might just not be right for me.
i hear ya. after having a set of H1's, i really want to try the aluminum wheel for a bit, the damn h1 setup is just so frickin heavy. although when your tire weights 100 some odd pounds i guess it doesnt really matter right.
 

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