CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

linked one ton escalade (coming back soon)

All 6 bars inside are welded and the top is welded on, will make welding under the top braces more difficult, but I’ll probbly only put 2-3 anyway and might have to wait until later.

Might be taking a brake for a while if I take a new job and get to be home during the week. But then I’d also not get the next 2 months off like I was planning.

FF41536C-3FB3-46C7-91F8-535177DE906C.jpeg

85478A93-81F8-4F25-83BD-2AE577808710.jpeg

8BF39304-DBE9-439A-A08B-83DFA09D0BEA.jpeg

D69BEF80-CDC7-4797-B23D-ECEA2FBBDF7A.jpeg

C4BC49E2-DB83-42CA-9092-4C2A5AB67617.jpeg
 
I did almost nothing today, but I got a rough idea where this tube is going to go, and about no matter where it goes it’s going to interfere with the hood hinge, so I might have to modify the hinge and move it to the body instead of the fender or even mount it to this tube.

Also making the fender removable is going to be difficult, so I might just end up with basically the skin of the fender , which should be fine on this side, but I’ll have to make mounts for the computer and fuse box on the other side.

A82957C2-C29E-4250-B88D-457762189BD1.jpeg

4BC9A0B6-2605-4FA4-BF48-E317FD8E7E17.jpeg
 
What happens if the windshield ever needs to be replaced?

You will still be able to get it out, but I imagine sliding the new one in will get a lot of urethane on it. I should honestly just put a new one in right now. But ehh, if it gets that bad I’ll replace it myself, I’ve helped install a few hundred in this body style GM
 
Figured out the hood hinge, the pivot part will be bolted only to the body and the bottom where the spring part bolts will still be on the fender, the fender still needs trimmed around the tube a little. But will be removable still.

Also bent up a tube for behind the front seats, made it 3/4 inch to wide so I put a bend in the middle, actually looks better that way anyway, so let’s say I did that on purpose. Its no where close to rear passengers knees once you’re sitting so should work good. Just the right height to hold on to.

Next question, should I do an X over that? Or just do a Y, Y would be much easier

F9547AE4-FAE6-4FC3-BF0F-B537063A5AD1.jpeg

EF811E73-E3FE-49BC-9353-48142E62FCCD.jpeg

7923E40D-4858-4834-898E-29E9C86AD005.jpeg

8C7E57C6-3AAB-45F2-8937-737A395EF83E.jpeg
 
Good thing I decided to put this together on the floor, the front half of the ecobox was on upside down. I didn’t even know the pattern wasn’t symmetrical. Was gonna throw the trans in to mock up the rear 205 mount but decided against it tonight, can’t find any of my stock torque converters or 4l80 cooler lines I had set aside.

My original plan was to add the second speed sensor in the 4l80 like a 2wd to make it shift at the same RPM in any low range, but now I’m thinking about just slapping my jakes performance black box on the plug and making it full manual and doing a shifter in the center console(this would also save me from having to disassemble the trans) Also kind of decided against air shifters and going to do 2 cable shifters on the 205. Then use the factory mounted floor shifter for the doubler.

9435026D-7E75-4E82-9552-8B2709358392.jpeg
 
Creative cage work, and I like your shifter plan.

David
 
Seeing as how this is a trailered rig, full manual would be easiest I think...

I spend a lot of time manually shifting my auto offroad anyway, only reason I see to keep it auto shift is because I street drive mine all the time.
 
I really wanted it to not be a trailered rig, but we have the Rubicon for that, and once I get a good tow rig/toterhome setup built in the next couple years it’ll be fine. So manual valvebody is probably the way to go.

Since I won’t be around the shop in Nebraska for a couple weeks now i had to move all my junk under the escalade on the hoist and had to take a picture. I hate thinking about how much I’ve spent on this thing, just glad I didn’t have a credit card until now and it’s all paid for though :haha:

Between all the LS parts and turbo kit and superduty axles and lockers and trusses I have like $6000 in stuff I need to sell, maybe I’ll finally be able to get some air bumps :woot:

734C3700-2B92-4E27-A3F8-D5C466E3E54B.jpeg
 
Oh yeah I need to order a couple flanges and oil feed line for that.

Gonna just use all the parts that were on the van like the oil pan with the drain welded in and the oil feed port that goes where the oil cooler normally goes.

I’m still really undecided on intercooler. If I’m not going to be running much boost could probably get away with non intercooled and just run good fuel. But I’ve also been thinking about one of those cheap inline air to water intercoolers that run off the heater hoses? Basically what the supercharged Camaros and vettes run with their heat exchanger setup. There’s just no way an air to water will fit behind the grill
 
Last edited:
Put it in storage in Nebraska today. Took a new job in Colorado so now I’ll be home every night and not away in Nebraska 4-6 days a week, a lot more money an hour but still less a week. going to be weird not working 70+ hours a week and staying in a camper. We’ve lived in our apartment 11 months and I just got my own drawer for my clothes haha.

But until I find somewhere in the Denver/aurora area to work on the Escalade or store it it might sit for a while. So if anyone knows anywhere or wants to split a small shop in that area....
 
It almost seems like I’m starting to be an adult. And then I get on copart and see a 2015 g wagon that could possibly sell for less than I have in my house down payment fund and I question myself again. :D

Wouldn’t that be ironic, I finally am home full time and she kicks me out because I bought a totaled vehicle for more than anything else we own.

CBDC5950-C988-4F4C-B5B3-E48C20F33943.jpeg

2FF9C513-3732-4106-A507-406408B70819.jpeg
 
Top Bottom