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Little Input + 12V Cummins Swap

Could be city ordinance or something
Morning Andy, yeah no ordinance here just peoples own aestetic values or lack there of.... I did a search here on CK5 for moving the front axle fwd w a zero rate yet retaining the push pull and I see you have posed the same question; looked like it was earlier this year. Have you tried any other variations w the zero rate than just the centered position with the stock steering? I have a 3" riser block on the nuckle and there is absolutly enough take up in the TREs + I never had any bump steer b4, I don't think there will be any now.. I think I might try 1/2" fwd and if that still rubs I'll move it 1.5"... I'm of the mentality that Ubolts should only be streached/torqued once but F'it... Any body else feel free to post your opinion on this topic of zero rates with push pull...:popcorn:
 
As I recall from that thread, one guy said he had moved the axle 1.5" forward and didn't notice any diffence in the steering. I already have some pretty aggravating bumpsteer going on, so I hesitate to move the axle 1.5" forward until I actually get a chance to drive a truck or Blazer that has that setup. (Wish me luck on that). Keep in mind that I still have the crappy six lug axles for now.

I don't think it's a good idea to re-use u-bolts. As you know, they actually get stretched longer as you tigthen them and if you take them off and try to torque them back to the same tightness you had them before, they won't stay tight for long and you'll have to retighten them quite often. If you don't catch it in time and let them get too loose, the result could be broken center pins, trashed spring bushings, death wobble, etc. The same goes for the lock nuts that hold the steering arm on the knuckle on the half ton axles. If you try to reuse them, they will come loose but still look tight and then the studs will break at the worst time and leave you with no steering. Ask me how I know.:doah:
 
The jist of what I was told was you had to shorten each of the drag link ends by half of what you moved the axle forward. So .75" each if you moved the axle forward 1.5".
Heard the steering was similar to stock, so basically still not wonderful push/pull.
 
i think you might have to be the guinea pig.
Cool... but.... I woke myself up this morning thinking that I didn't think of the top spring plates.........Correct me if I'm wrong but I need new plates that will work w zero rates? F!$K...... You guys and so wise benod your years that it's probably inconceivable that I forgot them, crap! :doah:
 
Happy New Year!! Alright then.... I had Friday off so I tore in to the truck and got quite a bit accomplished.. I got the old front axle out, swapped the diff covers and bolts(m1028 cover and bolts were smoked), I took my rotors and 4.56'd axle housing to the machine shop along w my top spring plates measured and marked for milling. Ezra my buddy who owns the shop is kinda slow like all Cruzians....He said he'd have the rotors and plates ready on friday and as I write this its Sunday and I still haven't herd from him :mad:... I took the housing w me because I don't have any compressed air at home currently(this thread should be in the driveway build section...) and I wanted to use a bottle hone to clean up he tubes and blow them out, which I did.. Friday afternoon I prepped the 4.56'd diff, totally flushed the internals, lubed the ring, pinion, and diff gears w fresh 80w + I installed the axles. I don't have a case spreader or the tool for the inner axle seals which is I took so much care in prepping and cleaning the tubes, I didn't want to push the splines through all that rust and crap b4 pushing them through the seal...:thinking:After a little brain storming about how I was gunna cleanly guide and axles to and through the seals, I went to the lighting store on thursday afternoon and bought clear, thin plastic, florescent light cover. What I did was cut it length wise in order to open it up slightly and slide it over the axle shafts, leaving an extra 4" or so sticking out of the C so I could pull it out as the splines were passing the lip seal. I rolled it the opposite way of its memory to splay it open, then I layed in inside the tube up against the seal housing and slid the axle along it and into and through the seal...Worked pretty good....Though the odds are they'll leak...... After pondering weather or not to replace the king pins I bit the bullet and bought some thin cut off wheels in order to make a thin relief cut just above the seating surface of the pin to relieve surface tension... Thing of beauty, I had both off in 15min... In between showers today I got the Zero rates installed the new draglink in(I cut off maybe 1/2" from one TRE to compensate for the axle move, should be more than enough), and I installed the axle as far as I could not having the top plates :mad:, bolted up the drive shaft and shocks... Hopefully I'll get the plates tomorrow and continue....

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Nice project!!Exactly what I'm doing to my 91 V3500 except I'll be using Dually Hubs up front instead of spacers

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!!Exactly what I'm doing to my 91 V3500 except I'll be using Dually Hubs up front instead of spacers
Oh Nice! You got a thread goin yet for that? I didn't use the dually hubs for a couple reasons but in hind sight the major one IMHO is the WMS to WMS turns out to be too much at that point, I don't like the way it looks, on a dually it seems to look pretty cool but not on a single rear wheel... + I can go back to a 4" BS rim when ever I want... I' look for your build up, Happy New Year!
 
I'm gonna swap in a dually Dana 70 rear with 14bolt hubs eventually so I can run with out spacers and I dont mind the tires sticking out a little plus Spacers creep me out everybody says there safe when done right I'm just paranoid I guess
Sounds like a plan.. I bit my nails for a while after deciding on spacers but I ordered hubcentric wheel centric for a tight fit, and I'll do my dodilligence in order to maintain the torque on the spacers...We'll see... I'm fairly confident I'll be ok... If I had the available parts it may have gone a different way.... Keep us posted!
 
Man, you're really going forward with this build. That's the way to do it.:bow:

If you want this thread moved to the Driveway, you could send a PM to tRustyk5 asking him to move it for you (he's the moderator over that subforum, I think).

I can picture you going all out on this thing eventually. If you can get the locals to cooperate, that is:haha:. I heard they're a laid back bunch. If you return to the mainland, do you plan to bring this truck with you?
 
are you gonna go to crossover?
Yes and hydro assist but, 1st It's my dd so I'll have to appropriate all the parts for a weekend thrash and wrench session and 2nd I'm right on the kusp of not having enough lift for it, so I'll have to take some accurate measurements and get inventive...

I have an idea for a double sheer double ended, springless (four bolt non dedenbear) arm to run a behind the axle TR..


Man, you're really going forward with this build. That's the way to do it.:bow:

If you want this thread moved to the Driveway, you could send a PM to tRustyk5 asking him to move it for you (he's the moderator over that subforum, I think).

I can picture you going all out on this thing eventually. If you can get the locals to cooperate, that is:haha:. I heard they're a laid back bunch. If you return to the mainland, do you plan to bring this truck with you?

Thanks I appreciate the support! I don't really care if I move it or not I just don't want to piss anyone off...

I have a real vision for this truck thats for sure! Briefly, I wanna cut the roof and put one of these in http://www.truckinweb.com/tech/0201tr_street_beat_customs_sliding_ragtop/index.html Remove the rear glass and fab a soft snap in window. Maybe a slide in lexan front window w airation holes along the top...
I'd like to fab a 6 point cage tied to the frame w crossover bars for 3 Beard seats front and rear or maybe a large center console w 4 seats. I'd like to trim the rear quarters up for wrap around bumpers same w the front.I'd like a Warn Powerplant HD...More lift, b52'd, shackle flip, tube rocker guards from just aft of front tires to just fwd of rears that match front and rear bumpers. I like to grind the calipers and run 15" Bart bead locks w 42 or 44" TSLs or TSL radials (I'm not a fan of anything bigger than 16.5", I like the look of more rubber than rim, big rims look so Fuc$!!g getto) and a set of the new ORD tube doors (post #58 http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100552&highlight=tube+doors&page=6).. It's pretty much gonna morph into a summer only rig and yes I plan on sending it back to Maine when I'm done down here....It'll take me a while but, I get alot of satisfaction out of this so the longer it takes within reason the better...
 
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Good evening fellas, well... I called the machine shop around 2 or so to check on the rotors and spring plates and Ezra said "yup come get um" so I drove over after work to find the rotors and plates slumbering nicely right where I left them.... I didn't make a big deal, I figured he'd just mismanaged his time........................I was still hopeful the rockauto order had shown up USPS but I got the big goose egg at the postoffice too.....Needless to say I didn't get Sh!$ accomplished today.... I could of cleaned up the knuckles and spindles and prepped some **** but thats no fun.. Kinda like a whole bunch of foreplay w-out the main event.... I got a call from Ezra around 730, he had the parts ready so I drove over and picked um up.. Nice job on the plates, not too complicated though and the rotors look good.. When I got home I test fit the plates, "thing of beauty"... I'm ready for tomorrow... I only have my neighbors truck till the 8th, I'm house sitting for him and taking care of his dog. So, I gotta get crackin on this.. Good news is I don't think it will be an issue to finish it by friday or saterday, bad news is I'll have to work on it on Thursday, 3 Kings Day a local holiday and miss the "adult parade", pretty much a parade of naked chicks through the middle of Fredricksted for 2-3 hrs....:doah:Oh well, last year was fun....

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we have one of those parades
:D

Man.... I took me forever to get home today, I had to run all kinds or errands; by the time I got home I only had like an hour of daylight left..
I was really hoping to get the knuckles on today, not even close though...
What I managed to do was get the U bolts and studs on and relitively torqued down; I didn't want to torque um down just yet because if I don't like the way the axle is spaced fwd than I can loosen them and change the offset on the zero rate and still only streach the U bolts one time...
I also managed to install the kingpins which was pretty standard but I could see two different philosophies depending on if you thought you were ever gunna fuc! with them again and maybe that combine w a piece of mind. I was gunna put a ring of red thread lock around the first couple threads closest to the seating serface for a good lock and piece of mind; but I came inside and read billavistas kingpin tips on pirate and decided go 180 and use antiseize... Seems to me that both ways would be fine and with the way I removed them either option wouldn't proove to be a problem at dissassembly... I hope to let-er-have-it tomorrow....

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