bad larry
1/2 ton status
Morning Andy, yeah no ordinance here just peoples own aestetic values or lack there of.... I did a search here on CK5 for moving the front axle fwd w a zero rate yet retaining the push pull and I see you have posed the same question; looked like it was earlier this year. Have you tried any other variations w the zero rate than just the centered position with the stock steering? I have a 3" riser block on the nuckle and there is absolutly enough take up in the TREs + I never had any bump steer b4, I don't think there will be any now.. I think I might try 1/2" fwd and if that still rubs I'll move it 1.5"... I'm of the mentality that Ubolts should only be streached/torqued once but F'it... Any body else feel free to post your opinion on this topic of zero rates with push pull...Could be city ordinance or something


... I took the housing w me because I don't have any compressed air at home currently(this thread should be in the driveway build section...) and I wanted to use a bottle hone to clean up he tubes and blow them out, which I did.. Friday afternoon I prepped the 4.56'd diff, totally flushed the internals, lubed the ring, pinion, and diff gears w fresh 80w + I installed the axles. I don't have a case spreader or the tool for the inner axle seals which is I took so much care in prepping and cleaning the tubes, I didn't want to push the splines through all that rust and crap b4 pushing them through the seal...
After a little brain storming about how I was gunna cleanly guide and axles to and through the seals, I went to the lighting store on thursday afternoon and bought clear, thin plastic, florescent light cover. What I did was cut it length wise in order to open it up slightly and slide it over the axle shafts, leaving an extra 4" or so sticking out of the C so I could pull it out as the splines were passing the lip seal. I rolled it the opposite way of its memory to splay it open, then I layed in inside the tube up against the seal housing and slid the axle along it and into and through the seal...Worked pretty good....Though the odds are they'll leak...... After pondering weather or not to replace the king pins I bit the bullet and bought some thin cut off wheels in order to make a thin relief cut just above the seating surface of the pin to relieve surface tension... Thing of beauty, I had both off in 15min... In between showers today I got the Zero rates installed the new draglink in(I cut off maybe 1/2" from one TRE to compensate for the axle move, should be more than enough), and I installed the axle as far as I could not having the top plates 
. I heard they're a laid back bunch. If you return to the mainland, do you plan to bring this truck with you?