3:73
You divide the ring gear by the pinion.
CK5
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Lost...Positraction and Open Carriers
- Thread starter Operator238
- Start date
You divide the ring gear by the pinion.
No, that’s a 3.73…divide the numbers to get ratio
Thought true-tracs were interlocking worm gears..?
I was right. True trac doesn't have clutches. Nothing to wear out.
Hate to Segway a little here but why is it hard to find brake drum backing plates? Can’t find them anywhere. I have a brake line flare but just totally seized up and stripped out. Tried torching it, soaking it in penetrate, vice grips etc.
Idk, but, I did some snooping and found a killer deal. 28 spline truetrac, $215!! I may buy one myself...just set it on the shelf for future use.
If you built an engine you can setup a rear. It just takes time and patience. I just put a true trac in my 12 bolt rear with help from everyone here at CK5. I liked that the true trac has no clutches to wear.
But I’m hearing things like a “case spreader” tool etc, which I don’t have
You won't need a case spreader on a 10 or 12b rear.
As far as the tru-trac goes, I love mine. No clutches to wear out. The torque biasing is seamless. Mine seems tighter than an average clutch type posi but no weird action on pavement with it. I've got mine in the front, but I'm half tempted to put one in the 14b instead of spending a mint on a selectable.
AIl you'll need is a socket set, pry bar, dial indicator, torque wrench, micrometer caliper, and a press if you're gonna replace bearings. It's basically just trying different shims to get the desired back lash and pinion depth. Get a sacrificial set of pinion bearings to bore out for the pinion. You'll be taking it in and out a few times.
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If I’m leaving my pinion intact, would I just transfer the ring to the new unit, along with the factory shims and check backlash?
I see people using yellow compound on the ring teeth but I guess that’s ONLY if I take my pinion out right?
I see people using yellow compound on the ring teeth but I guess that’s ONLY if I take my pinion out right?
Just bought one. I feel like I can’t beat that deal and this unit is probably more than enough for what I plan to do with the vehicle but still add some capability. Thanks for posting this link.Idk, but, I did some snooping and found a killer deal. 28 spline truetrac, $215!! I may buy one myself...just set it on the shelf for future use.
Wondering if I need the differential install kit from Eaton? It just reuse my bearings and leave the pinion in place (I don’t think it’s leaking)
The new carrier will probably differ from the existing one ( in terms of thousands of an inch), so you could start with the factory shims and go from there with the setup paint. The pinion may need to come out to adjust shims as well, but who knows maybe it will be good.
You would want to use the marking paint either way. That's the best way to dial it in. As they say the proof is in the paint.
Alrighty, well… yall best be ready for some questions! Its on its way,
I’m excited
Me too lol!
Me too lol
You'll want new ring gear bolts and some blue lock tight. I warmed my ring gear up in the AZ July sun, need leather glove to pic it up. dropped right on carrier. Some people will use a toaster oven. The new carrier will need to have the matting flange flat filed for burrs and cleaned of mfr oils/dirt. Ring gear should touched up with a flat file, and cleaned mating surface. Bolt holes and threads too.
Do leave the pinion alone in the housing. Unless there is a problem with it. If you are changing the pinion seal get a crush sleeve eliminator https://www.amazon.com/Yukon-Gear-SK-CSGM8-5-Differential/dp/B0078UC2AG?th=1 simple to do if no bearing change, and easier than reusing a crush sleeve, for the novice gear guy.
If you reuse the existing carrier bearing then the only adjustment will be for the minor tolerances in manufacturing. They should be very minor. I recommend ordering a carrier bearing shim kit, from Yukon or similar. This way you will have some shims to choose from when doing the work and not have to wait if your current shims are enough to get the back lash and pattern. https://www.amazon.com/Yukon-Gear-S...+carrier+bearing+shim+kit,aps,122&sr=8-1&th=1
Recommend lube locker cover gasket
Might seem overwhelming, but there are more then a few gear guys here that are willing to help, with tip and answers, being premium members makes so we can do pictures.
Do leave the pinion alone in the housing. Unless there is a problem with it. If you are changing the pinion seal get a crush sleeve eliminator https://www.amazon.com/Yukon-Gear-SK-CSGM8-5-Differential/dp/B0078UC2AG?th=1 simple to do if no bearing change, and easier than reusing a crush sleeve, for the novice gear guy.
If you reuse the existing carrier bearing then the only adjustment will be for the minor tolerances in manufacturing. They should be very minor. I recommend ordering a carrier bearing shim kit, from Yukon or similar. This way you will have some shims to choose from when doing the work and not have to wait if your current shims are enough to get the back lash and pattern. https://www.amazon.com/Yukon-Gear-S...+carrier+bearing+shim+kit,aps,122&sr=8-1&th=1
Recommend lube locker cover gasket
Might seem overwhelming, but there are more then a few gear guys here that are willing to help, with tip and answers, being premium members makes so we can do pictures.
"Only engage the Eaton ELocker™ differential while the vehicle is stationary or operating at speeds of 3 mph
or less with minimal wheel slippage. Engaging the Eaton ELocker™ while the wheel is spinning at a high rate or the
vehicle is moving at more that 3 mph may damage the differential’s engagement pins or lock collar will be considered
improper or abnormal use voiding the warranty."
Would be like dropping a gear without rev matching. Would be violent.
