Yeah it’s possible too much compound. I’ll need to brake clean it and start over again. I’m using ACDelco marking compound. Also have just plain Permatex Prussian Blue.
CK5
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Lost...Positraction and Open Carriers
- Thread starter Operator238
- Start date
wipe them down and try to pattern again hold off on the brake clean for now
So I ended up pulling the carrier out again. I confirm that it has 41 Ring Teeth and 10 Pinion. So 4:10 gears (not 3.73). I think the pattern was too shallow and once I started wiping compound off I just accept that these gears just look gnarly. I pulled the pinion out and there aren’t even any shims there. Just the bearing and the crush sleeve…. Probably need to get a new ring and pinion now.
It sucks but I agree... just buy a new ring and pinion. You'll have a much easier time setting up your pattern. Get an extra set of pinion bearings and hone them out so you can slide them on and off to get the shims right.
That’s a good idea, so I’m not constantly pressing on and off. How do you go about honing them?
Also are Richmond Gears ok?
Richmond gears are excellent. To hone them out I used a flap sanding wheel. Some times you can find them on ebay already honed out.
So I was able to buy the "setup bearing" along with the other bearings and new ring gear.
My questions are:
1) Do I still need to measure depth etc? (Depth tools are mega bucks and they have some cheaper ones with terrible reviews)
2) Do I "crush the sleeve" each time I try a new pinion shim? or do I just bolt things back together without the crush sleeve when trying shims out?
3) Do I keep the side carrier shims like I had? If no and that I need to start all over again. Do I put the pinion shim I think I need (.035), put those original side shims I had and proceed to measure backlash and pattern? Just as a starting point?
4) What preload do I need and how should I measure? I do have a "digital fish scale" I used for my Balljoints.
Thanks everyone.
1 You don't need those tools. Ultimately you're going to look at your gear pattern and adjust from there.
2 No don't install the crush collar until its all good and you're doing the final assembly. Leave the crush collar out for the setup.
3 You can start with what you have from the old ring and pinion and adjust from there.
4 I just tighten up the pinion nut so I can still spin it without using much torque. It should spin nicely. Remember the setup bearings will have a larger ID allowing them to compress the shims without much torque.
2 No don't install the crush collar until its all good and you're doing the final assembly. Leave the crush collar out for the setup.
3 You can start with what you have from the old ring and pinion and adjust from there.
4 I just tighten up the pinion nut so I can still spin it without using much torque. It should spin nicely. Remember the setup bearings will have a larger ID allowing them to compress the shims without much torque.
Thanks a lot, I feel good about this now. I’ll keep you posted
lightly oil the bearings for setup.
.035 pinion shim, new Richmond gears and bearings, .0215 driver shims, .0235 passenger shims, currently at .009 Backlash on 16# of preload
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I like it 
. The back lash is on the large end of good. Might not be able to improve it, I think I would try. Pinion depth looks good, so moving ring toward pinion would tighten up the back lash
. The back lash is on the large end of good. Might not be able to improve it, I think I would try. Pinion depth looks good, so moving ring toward pinion would tighten up the back lash
I plan on adding a .005 shim to the driver sideI like it
Adding shim to one side increases the bearing preload. If thickness is not removed from the opposite side the carrier will not move. So to move the carrier towards the pinon, add on the ring side, remove on the pinion side
Got it, almost there…
Someone convinced me to remove the pinion and see if there was any shims. I did, there werent any. Who ever did this rear end took it out of the box and just bolted everything together and ran it. I didn’t notice any noise
you'll be pro gear man when done 
So I screwed up final assembly. I put too much preload on the crush sleeve. So now I got to start over again with a new sleeve. I was too focused on sucking the yoke in and ended up getting my self into trouble….. is there a way to get the yoke in with zero play so I can just focus on preload??
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Use this. Set the preload torque the yoke and forget about it. If you ever need to change the yoke or seal no worries about getting the nut just tight enough.
