I'm in the same boat, would love to add one.
I see these junkyard engines running boost up to 5 psi makes me wonder if you regulate it to 3 if that would help, but we all know it would go even higher eventually.
CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
I see these junkyard engines running boost up to 5 psi makes me wonder if you regulate it to 3 if that would help, but we all know it would go even higher eventually.
Hints party pulley.
Orders have been made 
As soon as I get my accessory drive stuff ironed out and installed, I can put the front end back together.
Then it's finishing up with hoses and such. I'll get a battery in 2 weeks when I get paid again, and run with one for now. Just to get it programmed and movable.
As soon as I get my accessory drive stuff ironed out and installed, I can put the front end back together.
Then it's finishing up with hoses and such. I'll get a battery in 2 weeks when I get paid again, and run with one for now. Just to get it programmed and movable.
Looks like it'll all work. New belt coming tomorrow.
Along with injectors, a bunch of fuel line fittings, and some AN line.
Today I got that new alt, fuel rail, and some other odds and ends.
I got the exhaust offsets in, and measured for temporary/startup pipes.
Just going to run cheap azz mufflers for now. I'll get what I want and finish it out later.
Along with injectors, a bunch of fuel line fittings, and some AN line.
Today I got that new alt, fuel rail, and some other odds and ends.
I got the exhaust offsets in, and measured for temporary/startup pipes.
Just going to run cheap azz mufflers for now. I'll get what I want and finish it out later.
Injectors and fuel rail in. About an hrs worth of work I'll have the electrical done. (Probably tomorrow). And I have all the fuel line stuff I need I believe.
I have to clean up the frame rail and paint it before I run those.
Bought brake lines, but need adapters for it to all work and get the prop valve in.
It's coming down to the wire lol.
I'm getting anxious as h3ll.
I have to clean up the frame rail and paint it before I run those.
Bought brake lines, but need adapters for it to all work and get the prop valve in.
It's coming down to the wire lol.
I'm getting anxious as h3ll.
Wouldn't have to push bills back to do it, except I'm buying it's brother tomorrow lol.
97 or 98 (can't remember), 4x4, 2500 burb. 7.4/4l80.
It's getting cannibalized for all 3 trucks though lol. Kind of a shame because it's actually not bad.
97 or 98 (can't remember), 4x4, 2500 burb. 7.4/4l80.
It's getting cannibalized for all 3 trucks though lol. Kind of a shame because it's actually not bad.
You're right. It is a shame parting out an uncommon configuration.
Of course, it won't be the first time you've done that in this thread.
So I had a little problem with figuring out a gas pedal.
The dizzle used DBW with a built in return spring and nothing but a sensor mounted on it.
I looked up stock gmt400 gasser pedals and it was all $40-60 used.
Didn't feel like going to the JY, and I wanted to use what I had. So I modified the DBW pedal assembly.
I bought an aftermarket throttle cable, and temporarily hoked it up to get a pull length from closed to wide open. I came up with 1.75"
Then measured sideways and vertically off of one mount bolt to get where my hole in the firewall for the cable is.
Next I took some 3/8" rod and bent up a piece that was semi close.
Removed the TPS and welded the rod in its place.
I took the guts out of the pedal since I didn't want the pedal to be spring return, AND the throttle body to be also lol.
Got rid of the springs and started measuring where I was with the rod.
Little bit of torch/bend work and I was right about where it should be.
Made an end to hook my new cable onto, and did some travel measurements.
It was a little too much travel.
So I welded a stop block on and made a positive stop. Then ground it down to be just over 1.75" of travel.
Unfortunately I only started taking pics mid way.
The dizzle used DBW with a built in return spring and nothing but a sensor mounted on it.
I looked up stock gmt400 gasser pedals and it was all $40-60 used.
Didn't feel like going to the JY, and I wanted to use what I had. So I modified the DBW pedal assembly.
I bought an aftermarket throttle cable, and temporarily hoked it up to get a pull length from closed to wide open. I came up with 1.75"
Then measured sideways and vertically off of one mount bolt to get where my hole in the firewall for the cable is.
Next I took some 3/8" rod and bent up a piece that was semi close.
Removed the TPS and welded the rod in its place.
I took the guts out of the pedal since I didn't want the pedal to be spring return, AND the throttle body to be also lol.
Got rid of the springs and started measuring where I was with the rod.
Little bit of torch/bend work and I was right about where it should be.
Made an end to hook my new cable onto, and did some travel measurements.
It was a little too much travel.
So I welded a stop block on and made a positive stop. Then ground it down to be just over 1.75" of travel.
Unfortunately I only started taking pics mid way.
Donor burb turned out to be a 96. Doesn't change anything though lol.
Only part that had me bummed was I was thinking it had 4.11's, and I planned to swap the rear axles.
Donor one has all brand new brake parts. She paid me to put em on right before she parked it. I'll still use those though
And the blue on this one will be the solid color I use on the 95 if I can find it reasonably priced.
And before anyone mentions "well there's a stock gas pedal in the donor!". Yes, I know, but it needs to be mobile for a while AFTER the 95 gets moving. Not ready to pull it apart yet. Lol.
Only part that had me bummed was I was thinking it had 4.11's, and I planned to swap the rear axles.
Donor one has all brand new brake parts. She paid me to put em on right before she parked it. I'll still use those though
And the blue on this one will be the solid color I use on the 95 if I can find it reasonably priced.
And before anyone mentions "well there's a stock gas pedal in the donor!". Yes, I know, but it needs to be mobile for a while AFTER the 95 gets moving. Not ready to pull it apart yet. Lol.
Got the wiring around the driver's side done.
Now I just have to figure out what the ones circled are.
I think lift pump, but I'm not sure. They go to a plug near the fire wall and then down under the truck towards the rear.
Also started the fuel lines. I got the one from the rail down to the filter on the frame under the driver's feet.
And got the truck jacked up, so I can get under there and clean the frame easier.
Think it's gonna go up a few more inches. (Making me think its time to buy a lift lol.)
Then I can finish the lines.
Working on those tomorrow.
Now I just have to figure out what the ones circled are.
I think lift pump, but I'm not sure. They go to a plug near the fire wall and then down under the truck towards the rear.
Also started the fuel lines. I got the one from the rail down to the filter on the frame under the driver's feet.
And got the truck jacked up, so I can get under there and clean the frame easier.
Think it's gonna go up a few more inches. (Making me think its time to buy a lift lol.)
Then I can finish the lines.
Working on those tomorrow.
Chased the 3 wires that I had left.
They make me think Chevy is retarded
It's 3 wires in a plug.... Running into the wire bundle.
One goes to the lift pump plug like I thought.
It stops there under the driver's seat, and the other wire in the lift pump plug runs ALL the way back to the fuel tank and lands on the frame by it's self....
The second wire in the mystery plug runs all the way back to the fuel tank sender plug, but appears to be a ground. Beings that it's black with white stripe like a bunch of the other system grounds.
Other wire in the sender plug runs up into the firewall plug and into the dash.
3rd wire in the mystery plug is a light green that goes all the way to the jumble of wires at the tail where all the lights branch off, and I haven't finished tracing it yet.
It's odd that there'd be a big 3 wire plug separate from the others that have seemingly unrelated wires in it.
Then the odd lift pump ground that runs half the length of the truck, just to ground on the frame all by it's self. That wire would have been fine if it was a foot long.
And I'm not positive how the level sender wires work in this, but I thought fuel gauges had 12v to the gauge, through it all the way to the sender, through it, and to ground. And the resistance to ground operated the gauge....
If so, how come the ground runs all the way back to the front of the truck....?
I'm an electrician by trade, and I'm told a good one.
But I fuggin hate auto wiring, because most of it makes no damn sense to me lol.
They make me think Chevy is retarded
It's 3 wires in a plug.... Running into the wire bundle.
One goes to the lift pump plug like I thought.
It stops there under the driver's seat, and the other wire in the lift pump plug runs ALL the way back to the fuel tank and lands on the frame by it's self....
The second wire in the mystery plug runs all the way back to the fuel tank sender plug, but appears to be a ground. Beings that it's black with white stripe like a bunch of the other system grounds.
Other wire in the sender plug runs up into the firewall plug and into the dash.
3rd wire in the mystery plug is a light green that goes all the way to the jumble of wires at the tail where all the lights branch off, and I haven't finished tracing it yet.
It's odd that there'd be a big 3 wire plug separate from the others that have seemingly unrelated wires in it.
Then the odd lift pump ground that runs half the length of the truck, just to ground on the frame all by it's self. That wire would have been fine if it was a foot long.
And I'm not positive how the level sender wires work in this, but I thought fuel gauges had 12v to the gauge, through it all the way to the sender, through it, and to ground. And the resistance to ground operated the gauge....
If so, how come the ground runs all the way back to the front of the truck....?
I'm an electrician by trade, and I'm told a good one.
But I fuggin hate auto wiring, because most of it makes no damn sense to me lol.
sounds like you need a wiring diagram
