CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
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Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
With a quick search i've see them for around $120 now. Not sure of the quality but the reviews are worthy.
I'm ready to put the rear all back together. But I can't tighten the pinion here. My biggest breaker bar is almost 3' long and I bent the head of it and barely moved the nut.
I need bigger tools for that lol.
Plus I guess it's time to do wheel seals and brakes lol
I need bigger tools for that lol.
Plus I guess it's time to do wheel seals and brakes lol
3/4" ratchet with a pipe or a torque multiplier. Gotta have justification for one of those though. I have a all the big stuff from when I used to work on semis. Don't hardly use most of it anymore.
That's kinda why I was debating the car cams.
If I do a 2800 stall and the 4.56's, I'll be up enough in the R's that a step or 2 above the truck cams will be ok maybe.....
I just know it's a fat bitch with another 1000# of stereo crap added. So I'm scared of spending $300-400 on a car cam and realize it ain't got enough azz to move lol.
I'll probably just gather all the info I can and have a cam spec'd for me.
Have you talked to Heath?
I dug out the 3/4" set, found that the 38mm fit pretty good, and got a big pipe on it 
Unfortunately it went from free spin, to about 55 in-lbs preload in about 3/16" of movement at the nut.
So it's a tad tighter than they suggest, but I'm not getting another crush sleeve and doing it again.
It'll have to do.
When I did the carrier bearings in my blue truck, I was told that they pretty much can't be overtightened, crank em down. So I'd guess 20in-lbs over on the pinion preload won't hurt anything really.
Unfortunately it went from free spin, to about 55 in-lbs preload in about 3/16" of movement at the nut.
So it's a tad tighter than they suggest, but I'm not getting another crush sleeve and doing it again.
It'll have to do.
When I did the carrier bearings in my blue truck, I was told that they pretty much can't be overtightened, crank em down. So I'd guess 20in-lbs over on the pinion preload won't hurt anything really.
Keep in mind 20 more in-lb is a lot compared to the goal. In my opinion it would be easier and cheaper to replace the crush sleeve now than replace it all later. Carrier bearing collars with a spanner wrench is different than a 3/4" ratchet with a cheater bar.
Of course before you do that I would lube the bearing if you haven't done so and spin it over by hand several times to make sure it doesn't loosen up and you are still good.
Of course before you do that I would lube the bearing if you haven't done so and spin it over by hand several times to make sure it doesn't loosen up and you are still good.
Bang it with a mallet to see if anything seats a little better. This is the 9.5" rear? Anybody make a crush sleeve eliminator for these yet? I thought there was a Chrysler IFS diff that was sort of the same.
It's the 10.5 FF.
I lubed em, and spun it a lot. It's about .055 after that. When I did the blue trucks, I didn't use a spanner, I was using a punch and hammer. Lol.
I know it's not the way, but I thought about loosening the nut a c*nt hair. Just a smidge. Then smacking it with the dead blow a couple times and see what happens
After that fall this job fuggin hurt me. My back and arms are killing me. I really don't want to pull it back apart and try that again.
Think if I did it would be to put in the CS eliminator kit.
I'm going to get the flex beam torque wrench out, and see what it reads with that.
I'm using a HF click wrench and starting high, then turning it down incrementally till it clicks when I'm trying to turn it.
I lubed em, and spun it a lot. It's about .055 after that. When I did the blue trucks, I didn't use a spanner, I was using a punch and hammer. Lol.
I know it's not the way, but I thought about loosening the nut a c*nt hair. Just a smidge. Then smacking it with the dead blow a couple times and see what happens
After that fall this job fuggin hurt me. My back and arms are killing me. I really don't want to pull it back apart and try that again.
Think if I did it would be to put in the CS eliminator kit.
I'm going to get the flex beam torque wrench out, and see what it reads with that.
I'm using a HF click wrench and starting high, then turning it down incrementally till it clicks when I'm trying to turn it.
Yean need a flex beam style to check.
A click style won't give you real information
I just scrolled up to the pictures and felt pretty dumb.
If your beam wrench doesn't work out, you can always use something like a fish scale or just calibrate a spring with known weights.
I'm sure the beam one will do. I used one at work when I did the blue trucks rear.
I bought mine for the LS build and forgot all about it. It's not in the drawer with all the other torque wrenches, it's in the box it came in on a shelf lol. Probably why I forgot about it.
I've done the fish scale thing for ball joint preload before. Handy tool.
I bought mine for the LS build and forgot all about it. It's not in the drawer with all the other torque wrenches, it's in the box it came in on a shelf lol. Probably why I forgot about it.
I've done the fish scale thing for ball joint preload before. Handy tool.
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