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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
7 sheets of deadener later. Now only one more door to go. Then the rest of the interior comes out for cable routing and floor deadening.
On the other issue with it, the starter is bad. Solenoid is getting it's 12v and going "THUNK" when key is turned, but that's it.
On the other issue with it, the starter is bad. Solenoid is getting it's 12v and going "THUNK" when key is turned, but that's it.
Well, forkin seat back broke 
So I guess I'm taking it out to see if I can fix it. I kind of wanted to take the front interior out anyway so I can run some wires down the center of the floor. But I don't have the time for it. At least I'll know how to take the seat out for when I do lol
So I guess I'm taking it out to see if I can fix it. I kind of wanted to take the front interior out anyway so I can run some wires down the center of the floor. But I don't have the time for it. At least I'll know how to take the seat out for when I do lol
You put the deadener on the inner door panel? I'm planning on adding some deadener, but was planning on applying it to the inside of outer skin.
May I ask why you did it this way? And how well does it work?
May I ask why you did it this way? And how well does it work?
Yep I did both.
The more you put on the better.
It's actually a pretty common practice for people,(shops included), to just put a square over the speaker hole, then cut the hole and set the speaker in.
I've never liked that method.
I'm trying to achieve the general sound deadening level you'd find in a New lincoln, or a denali.
I mentioned a while back that this was sort of stumbling every once in a while and going into like a reduced power mode.
Then the other day I was sitting at a stop and it just quit. No stumble, it just quit.
So I read that them are both signs of the PMD failing. I happened to have a spare. So I changed it today.
And now it won't even start.
I'm hoping it's just because it's cold. But doesn't feel that way.
So I routed a cord around my house and plugged it in, and I'll see what happens tomorrow I guess
.
Then the other day I was sitting at a stop and it just quit. No stumble, it just quit.
So I read that them are both signs of the PMD failing. I happened to have a spare. So I changed it today.
And now it won't even start
.I'm hoping it's just because it's cold. But doesn't feel that way.
So I routed a cord around my house and plugged it in, and I'll see what happens tomorrow I guess
.New Stanadyne PMD fixed it right up.... Even starts better than it has since I bought it.
Only thing I don't like is I got a new #5 resistor with it and it rolls a little coal under heavy acceleration. I'll end up trying to find another #3.
Only thing I don't like is I got a new #5 resistor with it and it rolls a little coal under heavy acceleration. I'll end up trying to find another #3.
So... that's all we get huh?
Lol. Saga started over here. https://ck5.com/forums/threads/c30-6-0-is-now-a-burb-swap-thread.341899/page-2
Engine assembly starts in about an HR
Engine assembly starts in about an HR
Well. Not getting it together this weekend 
.
Having trouble getting the paper thin oil ring retainers to go in the cylinder.
So I'm ordering a different ring compressor to try again.
Had one pop out under the compressor and catch the block. Which of course bent it and it is no longer round. So there is a gap between it and the cylinder 1/3 of the way around.
So I figured I'll put that to the side, steal one from #8 and order a replacement. So that I could continue for the day.
Got it all back in the compressor, set it in and I held it down good while my buddy tapped the piston down. It paused right at the top for a couple taps, then went in.
But I couldn't push it by hand
.
So he tapped it in while I guided the rod and it did seem to go ok. Hooked it to the crank and spun it a couple times looking for marks on the wall.... Found some
One oil ring retainer had folded the end up along side the piston.
By this point I was too close to my engine and large hammers to continue forking with it.
.Having trouble getting the paper thin oil ring retainers to go in the cylinder.
So I'm ordering a different ring compressor to try again.
Had one pop out under the compressor and catch the block. Which of course bent it and it is no longer round. So there is a gap between it and the cylinder 1/3 of the way around.
So I figured I'll put that to the side, steal one from #8 and order a replacement. So that I could continue for the day.
Got it all back in the compressor, set it in and I held it down good while my buddy tapped the piston down. It paused right at the top for a couple taps, then went in.
But I couldn't push it by hand
.So he tapped it in while I guided the rod and it did seem to go ok. Hooked it to the crank and spun it a couple times looking for marks on the wall.... Found some
One oil ring retainer had folded the end up along side the piston.
By this point I was too close to my engine and large hammers to continue forking with it.
Luckily, being forged Pistons they have a large tolerance and that ring is thin enough that it fit in the gap and didn't damage the wall. The marks appear to be the moly coating off of that rings side. There's no actual scratches.
So I'm ordering this one
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/btc-btrrc4065
Because it specifically states it addresses that problem lol.
So I'm ordering this one
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/btc-btrrc4065
Because it specifically states it addresses that problem lol.
