CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
So... It runs. But I have the wrong injector data in it. The terminator x doesn't seem to have my stock injectors like I thought it would.
So I have to figure out how to correct that. I just used the one that said (stock LS3) behind it to get through the wizard.
I used AC Delco 12613412.
Wich I figured would be in there.
I have yet to hook the laptop up. Maybe there's a bigger selection or something.
When I got it started my fuel pressure gauge tap leaked, couldn't get it to stop so I took it out.
And my fuel lines have a union in the mid frame area that I apparently didn't tighten enough. Aside from that, no leaks.
Not to keen on the fact that it started up for the first time on a new rebuild and is saying 39 psi at idle cold for oil pressure.
I would have thought it'd be higher than that.
So I have to figure out how to correct that. I just used the one that said (stock LS3) behind it to get through the wizard.
I used AC Delco 12613412.
Wich I figured would be in there.
I have yet to hook the laptop up. Maybe there's a bigger selection or something.
When I got it started my fuel pressure gauge tap leaked, couldn't get it to stop so I took it out.
And my fuel lines have a union in the mid frame area that I apparently didn't tighten enough. Aside from that, no leaks.
Not to keen on the fact that it started up for the first time on a new rebuild and is saying 39 psi at idle cold for oil pressure.
I would have thought it'd be higher than that.
Sounds good, definetly hook the laptop up it makes it a lot easier to change things with.
After taking that video I was sitting in it, and revved it up to 2000 and held it there a while. When I let off, it stayed there. No matter what I did it stayed there. So I shut it off.
When I started it back up to put it inside, it did the same.
Throttle cable is all good still. So maybe IAC issues?
When I started it back up to put it inside, it did the same.
Throttle cable is all good still. So maybe IAC issues?
Do you have a sd card reader on your laptop?
Mine did the same, the 102mm throttle body was a pain to line up properly. I doubt the IAC is that far off with the base tune, although it could be the ramp down.
Mine did the same, the 102mm throttle body was a pain to line up properly. I doubt the IAC is that far off with the base tune, although it could be the ramp down.
I have the SD card slot. Is there an actual tune in that SD card? I have it in my laptop but I can't find a tune file on it.
Once I got to this point it dawned on me that this is going to be super fuggin sucky for me. I'm a total computer retard. This is probably the 3rd - 4th time my laptop has been opened in 2 years.
Once I got to this point it dawned on me that this is going to be super fuggin sucky for me. I'm a total computer retard. This is probably the 3rd - 4th time my laptop has been opened in 2 years.
Just watched a video about updating. Seems easy enough. Except the fact that my shop is 1.5 mi from my house, and there's no internet there. And I didn't save the wizard from the ECU into the SD card
Yup it’s pretty easy and I bet your injector data is in it.
Check your tps signal is accurate, my transmission did weird things if it wasn’t.
Check your tps signal is accurate, my transmission did weird things if it wasn’t.
Haven't done the update yet, due to internet issues. But I did find my current tune in the SD card.
And quickly found a severe issue lol.
First thing I did was change my injectors in the tune, then went and clicked on the transmission just to see how it was set in base tune.
When I had driven it around the block it didn't seem to shift right.
It was set for a Ford transmission of some kind.
I selected the 4l80e on the wizard I thought.
But that handheld actually has me disappointed in Holley a little.
That thing is near useless even with the stylus. It also kind of makes me wonder how well the touch screen part of their digital dashs work.
If they're anything like this and cost $2k I'd be showing up at headquarters irate as hell lol.
I'll get the tune re uploaded if it'll let me, and see how it does. Probably tomorrow though. Work tonight and have the granddaughter at the moment, so it'll wait lol.
And quickly found a severe issue lol.
First thing I did was change my injectors in the tune, then went and clicked on the transmission just to see how it was set in base tune.
When I had driven it around the block it didn't seem to shift right.
It was set for a Ford transmission of some kind.
I selected the 4l80e on the wizard I thought.
But that handheld actually has me disappointed in Holley a little.
That thing is near useless even with the stylus. It also kind of makes me wonder how well the touch screen part of their digital dashs work.
If they're anything like this and cost $2k I'd be showing up at headquarters irate as hell lol.
I'll get the tune re uploaded if it'll let me, and see how it does. Probably tomorrow though. Work tonight and have the granddaughter at the moment, so it'll wait lol.
I agree with the handheld being a little difficult to use but the 7 inch pro dash I have is amazing.
I've been kicking around the idea of the big 12" or whatever that one is. It would be absolutely perfect for the gmt400 dash opening.
Is the 7" dimmable? I can't stand a bright dash. I like em barely visible really.
Is the 7" dimmable? I can't stand a bright dash. I like em barely visible really.
I’m pretty sure you can dim it but I’m weird and like it maxed out.
I've found that a bright dash makes night driving tax your eyes more.
I used to do long azz trips, like 6-7 hrs mostly at night on a regular basis.
At one point I set the cruise and shut off my dash lights.
Before long I could see better with my headlights, and my eyes were less fatigued by the end of my trip.
So now I always have them as low as I can get em and still see my speed/vitals.
I used to do long azz trips, like 6-7 hrs mostly at night on a regular basis.
At one point I set the cruise and shut off my dash lights.
Before long I could see better with my headlights, and my eyes were less fatigued by the end of my trip.
So now I always have them as low as I can get em and still see my speed/vitals.
I'm going to let it learn for a bit just normal driving.
But the 2 things I believe I'll have to look into are idle, and shifting.
Idle seems to be 100-150 rpm above where I have target idle set even when warm.
And I have no real idea what the terminator can do or not do with the trans, but if possible I'd like the shifts to be a little more pronounced.
Im told that stuff like that can be done with computer controlled transmissions, but no real idea if that's true .
Almost has to be since it shifts ok now, but seems slushier (if that means anything) than it used to with the diesel.
I haven't done anything but grandma driving around the block yet either really though.
The one route I took, was about a 3/4 mi loop with about 1/2 mi of it a long straight 35 mph road. It went all the way to OD I think but rpm was too low to lock up. After the first 2 gears, it felt like it was in another gear or 2 higher but I never felt/noticed a shift.
But the 2 things I believe I'll have to look into are idle, and shifting.
Idle seems to be 100-150 rpm above where I have target idle set even when warm.
And I have no real idea what the terminator can do or not do with the trans, but if possible I'd like the shifts to be a little more pronounced.
Im told that stuff like that can be done with computer controlled transmissions, but no real idea if that's true
.Almost has to be since it shifts ok now, but seems slushier (if that means anything) than it used to with the diesel.
I haven't done anything but grandma driving around the block yet either really though.
The one route I took, was about a 3/4 mi loop with about 1/2 mi of it a long straight 35 mph road. It went all the way to OD I think but rpm was too low to lock up. After the first 2 gears, it felt like it was in another gear or 2 higher but I never felt/noticed a shift.
