CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
I've been searching on em for a while now. I've only found like 4 with that combo, nht, and less than 100k on the od.
I'll have one yet though.
The 8th VIN digit is J to confirm the 6.2L L86. I have 57K on mine, I won't sell it because it would cost too much to replace, probably why you can't find them.

Don't forget to look for a GMC Sierra also. That's what mine is when I was looking for one. My father has the same truck, he bought it 2 years after me, his is a Chevy. Same drivetrain and NHT. The wide mirrors help with towing visibility too.

I got new tires last fall. Before I did, I can tell you, if you turn off the traction control and the Stabilitrak, put in manual 1st, and then bump 2nd with the button after you get them rolling, it will do a long smoky burnout without power braking it.

If your burb has big tires and a heavy @ssend it might have a lot of traction relative to the front end. Its one of the reasons many bracket racers like station wagons.
 
Yeah I've been searching Chevy and GMC.
I've found a few. But unfortunately until some property sells, I don't have the cash. So I'll just have to see what I can find when the time comes.

My burbs fat azz, 31.6" super grippy tires, and 3.73's are all working against burnouts lol. I get that. That's why when I get the money for tires n wheels (also after property is sold) I plan to swap my tires front to back, and put the shorter, half bald, worthless azz Michelins on the back, and try another power brake :waytogo:
I can also crank down the rear braking force with the adjustable prop valve I installed :whistle: lol.
 
You guys got me wondering if the yukon my SIL has is the NHT RPO code, it's got coolers for everything but it doesn't have a trailer brake.
 
My 15 silverado that I had before I bought the shop had 3.73s, but didn't have the max trailering package, which is supposed to be the only way they got 3.73s from what I've seen. It had all of the package except the mirrors and trailer brake controller.
 
Last edited:
I didn't think you can get the NHT on a Yukon. If so it wouldn't have the same tow rating.

Did you replace the cam and not the converter Rick? Is it a 4L80E?

32" tires and 3.73s aren't that bad. But you definitely have a heavy burb.
 
Yeah it's a smallish cam, and stock converter.
I heard that the stock converters in the 6.0/4l80 combos were like a 2100 stall. So I left it. But later read that was the HD trucks. This came out of a van. I think it's more like 1400-1500 :doah:
But the trans has to come out again to be rebuilt at some point, so I'll just get a good converter then.
 
A converter needs to match the combo, it can make a huge difference in performance if it won't let the engine operate in its powerband, especially accelerating from a dead stop.

Keep in mind a "torque converter" doesn't just "slip", its called a torque converter for a reason. Think of it like "fluid gearing". When the RPM is up a good torque converter is multiplying that back into torque, it can actually produce up to double the torque, but it does have some effeciency loss as it heats up the fluid.

My point is, a proper torque converter makes a huge difference.
 
Last edited:
That was why I kept the stocker from the van combo I bought. I was thinking it was an LS 6.0/4l80 combo unit with 2100 or so stall, which I was thinking would be perfect for my semi mild cam.

But turned out not to be the converter I thought it was lol. Eh, it'll change, and I know it's one of my limiting factors.

The changes I made last night do seem to have made a difference, but it's still learning a bit again and I didn't have a spot on the way home to test play. The little bit of tap here and there felt good on the butt Dyno though.
 
Timing makes a huge difference, to be honest it will probably make more power at 30 at WOT, or possibly even 32, but then its more risky with less reward, 26 - 28 is a bigger difference and less risky.
 
So...... I don't know how to post my data logs OR my tune file.
I cannot figure it out at all
 
...??

edit, this didnt work lol
 

Attachments

  • MPFI_8ZAANT_fixedv2.terx.info.txt
    626 bytes · Views: 1
Timing makes a huge difference, to be honest it will probably make more power at 30 at WOT, or possibly even 32, but then its more risky with less reward, 26 - 28 is a bigger difference and less risky.
26 was base cal at WOT, I had mine at 27. Its at 28 now.
 
oops.... was looking at your truck thread heath and just tried sending a zipped tune file there :doah::haha:
 
lets try this again lol
 

Attachments

  • MPFI_8ZAANT_fixedv2.zip
    10.2 KB · Views: 0
not quite as much info as the whole file. but at least i can figure this way out lol
1655840897200.png
 
Top Bottom