CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
I planned my amp rack out to be where the plywood (temp rack) is now.
But with an angle frame, and a grating cage like the sub box. The shape of the green line was rough plans. Red ring is the base piece of angle I'm starting with.
I have a bunch of extra space in the quarter trim panel now, and no idea what to do with it. Amp rack can't go there because Its too far back.
Farther than I personally want to take things anyway.
I'll find something to go there I'm sure..
That too far back for a nitrous bottle?
If I was going air ride that'd be a great spot for a tank and pump.
Dunno... ?
But with an angle frame, and a grating cage like the sub box. The shape of the green line was rough plans. Red ring is the base piece of angle I'm starting with.
I have a bunch of extra space in the quarter trim panel now, and no idea what to do with it. Amp rack can't go there because Its too far back.
Farther than I personally want to take things anyway.
I'll find something to go there I'm sure..
That too far back for a nitrous bottle?
If I was going air ride that'd be a great spot for a tank and pump.
Dunno... ?
How much airspace is in the box, and is that a port in the middle? If so, what's it tuned to? How much power you going to be running? The alternator may help but I'm running around 4kw and my 140a ppv alternator wont keep up. 15sec and the voltage is down to low 12, high 11. You may need to look into mechman or one of the others to get a 'big' one.
It's roughly 4-5 qft. I built it to REaudio's specs off their site. Think it's tuned to 35 or 37. Can't remember. I just went with their dimensions and built lol
The port seems small to me and I'm afraid of having a lot of port noise.
I usually run sealed but went ported for a test. If I do sealed later Itll still fit the frame I built.
I'm running an available 5k for subs, but probably won't use it all.
The 140amp alt will be for the highs/mids and the rest of the truck.
I have a temporary 160amp that will just be running the subs and their own batteries.
The plan is to eventually step up that alt after I get the funds.
Should suffice for now until I get the system broke in and dialed in.
The port seems small to me and I'm afraid of having a lot of port noise.
I usually run sealed but went ported for a test. If I do sealed later Itll still fit the frame I built.
I'm running an available 5k for subs, but probably won't use it all.
The 140amp alt will be for the highs/mids and the rest of the truck.
I have a temporary 160amp that will just be running the subs and their own batteries.
The plan is to eventually step up that alt after I get the funds.
Should suffice for now until I get the system broke in and dialed in.
I've been building boxes for many years now. Competed for a bit - even went to SBN - Daytona back in about 96 I think.. That port is ludicrously too small. 2 15's w/ 48mm of xmax running the kind of power you want to run.
Ran some quick numbers on those subs at 1500w /ea (what RE says is the continuous on those) and your port speed was crazy.
I ran some more numbers w/ a more appropriate sized one that still wont fit in that box and it's gonna be tough w/o rebuilding the whole box, getting the best output for those things. You cant get a port too large, but you can make one too small.
And the larger the port area, the longer it has to be to keep the tuning the same.
My guess is they made the box small enough to fit into many vehicles and that's the compromise. You have a suburban, and 'could' use a lot more space...
Ran some quick numbers on those subs at 1500w /ea (what RE says is the continuous on those) and your port speed was crazy.
I ran some more numbers w/ a more appropriate sized one that still wont fit in that box and it's gonna be tough w/o rebuilding the whole box, getting the best output for those things. You cant get a port too large, but you can make one too small.
And the larger the port area, the longer it has to be to keep the tuning the same.
My guess is they made the box small enough to fit into many vehicles and that's the compromise. You have a suburban, and 'could' use a lot more space...
I went with it for a run at different. But like mentioned, I'll probably end up sealed eventually. Just always liked it better.
I haven't had a great feeling about the box since I started it. Something about a sealed 2 sub box and a ported 2 sub box being within 1 cubic foot of each other with the same subs just isn't right.
Gave em the benefit of the doubt
I haven't had a great feeling about the box since I started it. Something about a sealed 2 sub box and a ported 2 sub box being within 1 cubic foot of each other with the same subs just isn't right.
Gave em the benefit of the doubt
Ported should be significantly larger w/ the port. But you do gain something for it. A well designed port is like adding an extra sub in there. The size of interior on a suburban would couple well w/ a little bit higher tune, than what they've spec'd. The cabin gain down low in that would make up any loss for higher tuning. Just have to watch the excursion down low. Subsonic filter or a PEQ to dial it down.
I tried designing one in winISD, but I wasn't doing something right. One, doing their box I came up with way different tuning and such than they did. But second, I was swinging my box size dramatically to test effect because bored, and realized that the supposed tuning frequency wasn't really changing much. I'm talking 1.5 to 15 cuft was changing 3-4 hz.
Not sure if it was me or winISD.
So I just went with re's specs lol.
Win seemed fine when I used it to do my dually. But I started playing with some other numbers and realized they stayed that way between designs. Then didn't know what ones I had done or what I did to change em back
.
This isn't a permanent box, maybe I will try a bigger ported later. Dunno.
I actually kind of wanted to do a forth order with the motors in the ported section. I have the room lol.
But I'd have to get like bass box pro or something to design that one.
Not sure if it was me or winISD.
So I just went with re's specs lol.
Win seemed fine when I used it to do my dually. But I started playing with some other numbers and realized they stayed that way between designs. Then didn't know what ones I had done or what I did to change em back
.This isn't a permanent box, maybe I will try a bigger ported later. Dunno.
I actually kind of wanted to do a forth order with the motors in the ported section. I have the room lol.
But I'd have to get like bass box pro or something to design that one.
On the alternator deal, I got it in, and hooked up.
SO much better lol.
When I had done the swap I didn't put a resistor in the excite circuit for the alt.
Which fried the voltage regulator and caused major volt swings.
I was seeing down to around 11.8 with lights on, holding the brake at idle, to 15.2 or so cruising down the highway.
I added the recommend 470 ohm ½watt resistor, changed the alt, upgraded the charge wire to 4awg, and added a direct alt case ground.
I had stolen the battery for the k30 already, so I bought a new one for this while I was at it.
I did have to modify my bracket to fit the 140. But it was just some grinding for the fan is all.
I have 14.5v nearly constantly now. Only fluctuates down to 14.4 rarely.
As for the 160 amp, I have the 2 wire version that requires the pwm 5v signal from a pcm/ecm.
Didn't realize the issues with that until after it was installed .
So after some research I came up with this setup.
It's a pwm signal generator, and a voltage stepdown.
They will be run off of the sub batteries, and will directly control the 160's output to them. Goal is to shoot for 14.5 on that too.
I could have replaced the 2 wire regulator on that alt with a 4 wire. But all the 4 wire regs I found were no name brands, and I would rather keep the delcos stock regulator.
Plus these are cheaper than the no name regulator and kind of intriguing. I want to mess with it because I generally don't play with pwm signals and chit lol.
SO much better lol.
When I had done the swap I didn't put a resistor in the excite circuit for the alt.
Which fried the voltage regulator and caused major volt swings.
I was seeing down to around 11.8 with lights on, holding the brake at idle, to 15.2 or so cruising down the highway.
I added the recommend 470 ohm ½watt resistor, changed the alt, upgraded the charge wire to 4awg, and added a direct alt case ground.
I had stolen the battery for the k30 already, so I bought a new one for this while I was at it.
I did have to modify my bracket to fit the 140. But it was just some grinding for the fan is all.
I have 14.5v nearly constantly now. Only fluctuates down to 14.4 rarely.
As for the 160 amp, I have the 2 wire version that requires the pwm 5v signal from a pcm/ecm.
Didn't realize the issues with that until after it was installed
.So after some research I came up with this setup.
It's a pwm signal generator, and a voltage stepdown.
They will be run off of the sub batteries, and will directly control the 160's output to them. Goal is to shoot for 14.5 on that too.
I could have replaced the 2 wire regulator on that alt with a 4 wire. But all the 4 wire regs I found were no name brands, and I would rather keep the delcos stock regulator.
Plus these are cheaper than the no name regulator and kind of intriguing. I want to mess with it because I generally don't play with pwm signals and chit lol.
Win isd and myself never really got along either. There's a few other software programs out there.
I think I tried that out many, many years ago and was more successful with it than winisd. There's actually a web based form that's not absolutely terrible either - https://speakerboxlite.com/
Biggest thing is getting the most comprehensive list of T/S parameters you can. You also have to know how your vehicle tends to couple, in order to know what you're tuning for.
And beyond all of that, how it's physically constructed and installed makes a huge difference. Within reason, I'd go as far as to say that unless you're gonna compete, getting 'reasonably' close to 'ideal' wont matter - not as much as how it's constructed and installed. Even using vehicle boundaries makes more of a difference, than being a few percent off of 'ideal'.
'Reasonably' means ballparkish.. That port you have doesn't qualify.. lol
But you won't notice it until you crank it. At lower levels it wont make a diff.
Biggest thing is getting the most comprehensive list of T/S parameters you can. You also have to know how your vehicle tends to couple, in order to know what you're tuning for.
And beyond all of that, how it's physically constructed and installed makes a huge difference. Within reason, I'd go as far as to say that unless you're gonna compete, getting 'reasonably' close to 'ideal' wont matter - not as much as how it's constructed and installed. Even using vehicle boundaries makes more of a difference, than being a few percent off of 'ideal'.
'Reasonably' means ballparkish.. That port you have doesn't qualify.. lol
But you won't notice it until you crank it. At lower levels it wont make a diff.
No competitions, just going way out in the country, sitting in a field drive, and beating the snot out of it lol.
Mostly just driving back and forth to work though.
I've never dealt with how a car couples or any of that.
Usually build a box, beat it, build another, do the same. See what works best.
At one point I had 9 12"s laying around, and a ported box I got in a trade. We spent all day one day drinking and switching subs out, then beating them to near distortion. Then swapping in another and doing the same lol. Just to see if any one of them liked that random box. That was like 25 years ago though lol.
I'll probably run this box a year at most. Unless port noise pisses me off, then it'll get replaced one way or another.
Probably sealed so I can use my current bracket for longer.
If I end up going bigger, I'll just dismantle the bracket and repurpose the steel
.
Mostly just driving back and forth to work though.
I've never dealt with how a car couples or any of that.
Usually build a box, beat it, build another, do the same. See what works best.
At one point I had 9 12"s laying around, and a ported box I got in a trade. We spent all day one day drinking and switching subs out, then beating them to near distortion. Then swapping in another and doing the same lol. Just to see if any one of them liked that random box. That was like 25 years ago though lol.
I'll probably run this box a year at most. Unless port noise pisses me off, then it'll get replaced one way or another.
Probably sealed so I can use my current bracket for longer.
If I end up going bigger, I'll just dismantle the bracket and repurpose the steel
.
And, how come I'm having to ask what it sounds like?
Although I may have parked the dually Infront of the shop, and ran a 12/2 romex from it's amp, under the door, and hooked it up for a minute or two 
Even though that amp is set for a single mid line 10", and is only 2ohm stable, it was enough to make me turn it down due to neighbors and chit.
This is a 1ohm box, and at the current settings it was vibrating the Fock out of my shop and the garage doors.
I did notice that my grille may be just a tad close to the subs. There's a possibility I may have to elongate some holes and move it out some.
I have 13mm of space between the center of the surround on the outer edge and the grille. The center of the box the grille is out a half inch more so that side will clear. Not a big deal, just sucks a little.
Even though that amp is set for a single mid line 10", and is only 2ohm stable, it was enough to make me turn it down due to neighbors and chit.
This is a 1ohm box, and at the current settings it was vibrating the Fock out of my shop and the garage doors.
I did notice that my grille may be just a tad close to the subs. There's a possibility I may have to elongate some holes and move it out some.
I have 13mm of space between the center of the surround on the outer edge and the grille. The center of the box the grille is out a half inch more so that side will clear. Not a big deal, just sucks a little.
