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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
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That's the one thing I have no idea about. Dude I bought it from said it was rebuilt at 300k. But it happens to be the only piece of paperwork that he conveniently didn't have in all the big folder he gave me lol.
Still leaves it with 130ish K on it if it's true.

I want to have it BUILT. My guy told me $3000. So I'm hoping it goes another year lol.
 
I'm going to run the line lock different than everyone seems to. I have different wants than them I guess, and can't see why it would make a difference.

I'm going to put mine in the rear brake line.

And I'll turn it on BEFORE I hit the brakes. Keeping the rear brakes from applying, but leaving me full control of the front brakes to ease it forward, and control my speed/movement during burnouts as I see fit. Then just let the button go when I feel the burnout is complete.

There will be a covered switch on the dash, that has to be on before the push button can work. And a momentary push button on the shifter that I'm adding to the center console.
 
I don't want to do the sit in one place and burnout thing. Or get the tires rolling and let it go to see how far it goes.
If you watch like the Australian burnout comps, where they're burning out like crazy but moving around in a small area, they're controlling the movement with the brakes, I don't want to tear up brakes while doing similar chit.

I want to be able to move forward but at a controlled rate.
This things gonna have a LOT of traction. And without a big block, I'll need help keeping it in a burnout and not just launching.

Nearly 7000#, a heavier rear than front, and nearly 31.5" tall 285's are all working against me.

If all the things I'm currently doing don't cut it somehow, I may still end up with the big block I had planned. Just trying to give the LS thing a shot.


Bass and burnouts are awesome stress relievers for me..... Hence what this project is all about lol.
 
Boost would definitely help yes lol.
Unfortunately I'd have to completely pull the engine apart again all the way down to every piece, so I could refile the rings. Or replace them with a new set, filed for more ring gap.

Fock that. If it comes apart that far again it'll get a fully forged and balanced stroker kit.
And I figure if I'm going to buy a fully forged and balanced stroker kit, and file the rings for boost, it'll be for the Gen VI big block sitting on my engine stand lol.
 
shady said:
I'm going to run the line lock different than everyone seems to. I have different wants than them I guess, and can't see why it would make a difference.

I'm going to put mine in the rear brake line.

And I'll turn it on BEFORE I hit the brakes. Keeping the rear brakes from applying, but leaving me full control of the front brakes to ease it forward, and control my speed/movement during burnouts as I see fit. Then just let the button go when I feel the burnout is complete.

There will be a covered switch on the dash, that has to be on before the push button can work. And a momentary push button on the shifter that I'm adding to the center console.
Click to expand...
That won't work. Most line locks are a check valve, so if you do that, it will still let you apply pressure to the rear brakes, it just won't release until you turn the line lock off.

The reason they do this is two reasons, its safer because the brakes can still be applied if its on, and it also allows you to pump the pressure up in the line lock with pumps after it's on to apply more pressure to the front brakes.

I suppose you could install it backwards to reach your goal, but I don't recommend that, because it sounds dangerous to me to lock your brakes off instead of locking them on.

With a burb and an LS in the front, you may in fact have more weight on the back than the front, so even with a line lock, it may just push the front tires even when they are locked.

You could do the old trick of using a washer fluid pump to pump some water to both rear tires, that would help you do burnouts.
 
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I stopped a while back and dumped an entire water bottle over and around each rear tire. Then tried to power brake and it was a pitiful little scratch and nothing more. It does just push the fronts now. The 4x4 big block burb I parted did the same thing.
And I'm adding another 500-700# right over top of the rear axle:doah:

If the line lock can't be made to work the way I want, I'll find a different solenoid or something that will. Lol.
My hope it that the fronts being held, while the rears are free, and enough power hits the stall speed all at once it'll get the tires to break and spin. Once they're spinning they should be easier to keep doing so.
If I can then slowly let off the brake and creep forward a while before I release the brakes I can leave some impressive long and dark posi marks around the area :waytogo:
It can sort of be done by cranking on the prop valve.
But THAT is the dangerous way. And finding the sweet spot for the valve again after would suck.
 
Might look at the Mico brand "line locks". They are more for forklifts and such for locking the brakes to use as a parking brake.
 
I'll take my line lock in to work tonight and set it up on the test bench. Run pressure through it both way, on and off, to see how it works.
It's a $39 Amazon dealy f
So it may just BE a regular solenoid lol.
 
Yes, yes it would. There's been an idea kicked around for a 75 shot. Which would also help. But I'm Leary of the bottle being in the truck all the time and having to deal with it in general.
I'm kind of lazy lol. Everything I've seen and read about NOS makes it seem like a bunch of hassle and BS. Ok for a drag racing thing or something. But this truck will be so randomly driven, and only ragged on on a whim that it doesn't seem worth it :dunno:
 
I hooked the line lock up on the bench at work last night.
With air running though it it acted like any solenoid. On/off both directions. It was only 100psi of air, but it was a solid shut off. So I'm going to go ahead and install it like I'm thinking, and see what it does.
 
Well, I figured since I'm doing a cam and having the heads done, I'll continue with some things I half assed the first round.
Pretty much because it has gone to show that I'll most likely go another step up later, given my history with 2 steps forward, 3 steps back lol.

So I impulse bought a rocker system that will be a little more than I need now, but won't have to be changed if I step up later. It was only $150 more than I was going to purchase anyway, so MAW.

Bought the Brian tooley racing shaft mount system with the BTR rockers also. Upgrades me to roller trunnion, and if I ever mod it enough to push past 7k rpm these will be fine.
Still gotta get with Heath and see about lifters maybe. The summit LS7 ones I have may be fine for what I'm doing now. But if there's something I could benefit from with my current plan, then I'll probably do it now.

When I put this together I built the short block, but just razor blade rebuilt the heads, lapped the valves, and reused the old rockers and push rods with no more than a cursory glance over.

Screenshot_20240101-231232.png
 
If my lifters are fine for all this then I'll measure my push rods and inspect them well. I'll also measure for correct preload.
Just buy new ones if I have to. From all I've read the stockers are pretty good until you start running over 7k and boost etc.

Ive also kind of decided it'd be real dumb to get it out, put it on a stand, pull everything off and NOT pull th slugs and file my ring gap for future purposes.
 
Forgot, I also bought some braided flex pipes for the exhaust.
I have the exhaust currently solid mounted to the frame in two places on oech side. So there's no room for flex and expansion when they get hot or the engine tweaks in the mounts under load.
Which is loosening my clamps and making loud pinging sounds as it cools down and such.
So I'm going to come off the headers with a 10" flex, into my solid mounted H pipe.

Screenshot_20240102-160910.png
 
Wouldn't it be cheaper to use universal flexible exhaust hangers than adding those that could leak eventually?

As for your lifters, I don't think you need a short travel high RPM lifter for what you are doing, especially if you already have the LS7 lifters. Though I don't know what summit LS7 lifters are, are they quality pieces they buy in bulk or cheap knockoffs?

Those shaft rockers look pretty nice for the price, no roller tip, but with factory steel guides that doesn't matter as much as they are pretty durable.
 
The way my pipe is run there isn't a real good way to put flexible hangers in. It's been something I'd like to do, but these are easier to put in for the time being until I can figure out a different way of doing it. I have 2 removable 20" or so offsets that I can just cut the middle out of and add these quick.

As it is the only way to hang em would be to build a full cross member up nearly touching the body, and hangers off of them or something. So I solid mounted to the trans cross member and the rear frame rail by the exit for now to keep my pipes from shaking loose.

I actually want to revamp all the exhaust past the H pipe. But I can't until I finalize the rear suspension.
So it's all temporary.

Dave's been running the maiden the same way since he built it I believe.
Remembering his setup is why I bought these for now.
 
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