CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
I just go by the %THD at rated power. Most of the time when your comparing amps in the same quality range, comparable powered amps have a higher THD at the same rated power usually for class D. :dunno:
 
There's a lower limit to what THD you can actually hear. And most amps today that aren't garbage or broken are far better than we can distinguish.

I used to compete back in the 90's and there was a big difference in amps back then. When the early class d's came on the scene there was a difference - not sure if you remember or not but the early class d's weren't even capable of producing much above 100hz with any kind of fidelity. As the switching freq's went way way up and class d's became full spectrum amps, that started to become far less of an actual problem. Some class d's today are actually cleaner than old a/b's of yesteryear.

Nothing wrong w/ a/b amps though if you don't mind the draw and heat.
 
Just talked to my transmission guy, and I'm set to drop it off in the next day or two.
He said I don't need the hardened input shaft, so we aren't doing that. That saves me near't a grand lol.

Didn't make it to the steel shop today, so I guess I'll shoot for tomorrow to get some angle iron.

Still not sure if I'm more excited about the power upgrades or getting the stereo done lol.
 
I tried to hammer clearance the floor , and it wasn't working. So when I had it up on the lift I noticed the shackles moved forward far enough to make a 3/4" gap.

:thinking:
Perfect!
I just took some 4"x6" pieces of 3/4" plywood and stuffed them up over the shackle. And lowered the truck back to the floor lol. Then jumped up and down on the bumper a bit.:waytogo:

Didn't fix my POP deal though. That's what I expected it would be.
One of the steel sleeves in the rubber bushings isn't tight enough. I believe it's binding just enough, loading up, then spinning quick.
I'm going to loosen them all, and re-tighten all of them.

IMG_20240417_122937356.jpg
 
Well.... It shut down on me again. This time I wasn't logging, it has a new TPS sensor, and I wasn't even full throttle.
Close probably, but I was feathering it because it was a drifty burnout on wet pavement.

Then it just stopped running.
Once again, no sputter, no Indictation. Just wasn't running anymore.

Kinda stumped again. Both times it's happened have been at high RPM.
I thought fuel supply maybe? But it never happened before. And when I did the build, the fuel system was supposed to be good for like 700 or more HP.

So....:dunno:
 
Sounds more ignition to me. Even if the fuel pump just shut off, it would spit and sputter for a second while the residual pressure bled off.
 
I just keep feeling like the Holley Terminator is thinking something is wrong, and killing it on its own..?

But the last time, in the datalog, it really didn't show much.
 
Even odder, is the fact that since the last time, I've done another dozen hard pulls, and some other wet pavement playing.... No issues.
 
sounds like cam or crank sensor to me, it’s breaking up under a high load. If it’s that sudden it’s loosing timing.
 
I want to get a mount for my GoPro that will look straight at the gauge screen.
Usually too much going on when it happens for me to be staring at it lol.

Turn the camera on any time I'm going to mash it like that.
 
Make a screen up that has only sensor data.
 
You have a data logger, that's much better than a camera.

Fuel pressure sensor would be nice to log...what was your fuel tank level when this happened both times?

Its either losing fuel or has an electrical issue. I remember before you lost the MAP sensor and the TPS reading at the same time, so it was pointing toward a short or intermittent circuit for those sensors in that data log.
 
Fuel is nearly full at the moment.
Does the data log see all of it? Cam,/ crank sensor and such?

With a short, the TPS and map would have blipped, and then worked again, or they wouldn't have worked immediately after turning the key off and back on. But they dropped, flat lined and stayed there until I restarted it.

The 02 sensor was batty again this time too.
Is it possible for that to be overheating?
Last time the data log shows the O2 at a varying number. But when this happens the handheld shows the AF at 33+ and stays there till it's turned off and on. Which is why I want the camera.
The data log and screen don't seem to jive all the time.
 
Liking that post about my wires reminded me I need to get those when the motor is going back in. Not staying with the cheapies.:waytogo:
 
Read 2 posts above yours.

The data log and screen read different things when it happens.

I want to see them both and compare what's going on.
 
It works with my cell, but I don't have a mount for it.
Not sure if it'll work with the GoPro.

I want to see them both and compare so I can see what's do what when.

On this part of my last data log during the first incident, the yellow line (target AFR) jumping up is the moment it happened. You see the blue line (actual AFR) start rising and it peaks around 15-16.
The top of the black is only 20 on the AFR scale.

During that entire time period, after the yellow jumps, the AFR I could see was 30+. All the way till it rolled to a near stop. Then it fell off.
So there's definitely something different between the readout and log. Why, I don't know. :dunno:
Which is why I want the video, to see and show it.
Maybe between comparing the 2 it'll be easier to figure out.

My eyes are drawn to the AFR in the truck when it happens, because it turns red. So I really don't see the other things and what they're doing.
I glance at the dash, then try and find a safe place to coast to.
 

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