CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
I always jack the front end up as high as I can and let them idle with the radiator cap off and heater on. Does a pretty good job of burping them that way.
 
I used to have a great spot for that until I did my driveway. Now I just have to use the angle of the road.
 
I was actually thinking about doing that earlier, and didn't. Mighta should have
 
I used to have a great spot for that until I did my driveway. Now I just have to use the angle of the road.
Anything above level will work. Obviously the more the better. Also stack 4x4’s on the jack for more height. Or stack the jack on 4x4’s. Extreme measure is unbolt engine and trans mounts and use engine hoist to tilt everything up.

Just giving options.
 
My LS1 Camaro is really tough to bleed. Rad is lower than the rest of the cooling system so I have to jack the shit outta it when I fill.
 
This one is weird. The only fill point is higher than the radiator. But if you point it UP, the radiator is highest. It doesn't have anywhere for the air to come out of though.

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When I jack the front up under the engine crossmember and set it back down, the stance is about perfect.

Soon as I move it the fenders come down to the front tires though.
Maybe the next fix:thinking:

I'm going to drive it tomorrow, see how the temp goes, and park it on the lift side.
It's time to drop the tank and change the pump.

Then dial in some exhaust stuff.

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Got to the shop, all excited... Hopped in and backed it out. Decided to do my test loop fast since it's only like 5 blocks of driving.

It was idling high as F.....
Got back to the shop, popped the hood and realized I had removed the punch id had in the map sensor hole yesterday. So big air leak lol.

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It did kind of stop getting hotter at 169 though.
Highest I seen was 171.
It took 4 gallons of antifreeze to fill.

I'm at 10qrts of transmission fluid. Still need to dial that in too.

It's pretty fuggin loud at the moment, so I'm going to let my old neighbors wake up some more before do more filling.
 
New MAP sensor is in. And it's running on it, so that's cool.

I opened the TB vane just a smidge and I can get it to idle now, but it is hard still.
Once it idles it sit there and idle good.
It's getting it to start and idle all at once lol.

It'll get there.

Keep wondering if I have a vacuum leak though. It doesn't seem like it has much vac, and I have a problem with it dieing as soon as I stick it in gear.

Runs about 60kpa at idle. Not sure if that's good or bad lol.

I have the tank out changing the pump at the moment.

I did some data logs idling and a light drive around my loop.
 
I realized that the rear exhaust hanger is rubber already. Forgot I bought them.
So those are good.

I got a few more out and got them bolted up and ready for the front. Would have welded them already, but the 1/4 full gas tank with no sending unit is only 10' away lol.

After the tank goes back in I'll get em welded.IMG_20240918_173826512~2.jpg

This is how it was before.
(Seen it was broke when I got the light in there lol)

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Idling for a long time it only got to 174* today. So that's good.

But something somewhere is leaking brake fluid at my roll control. And I can't figure out what it is.
It almost looks like the unit its self is leaking.

When I put it in I powered it up to stop the fluid leaking out while I got the outgoing line bent, flared, and hooked up.

Turns out they have a duty cycle and aren't supposed to be on 15 minutes lol.
It was HOT! When I got done.
Maybe I fried some seals.
 
Hope that thing is rebuildable.

Sounds like you got the air out - was gonna suggest a bleed fitting somewhere if it didnt happen. Had one in my 96 Impala /w the LT1 - was handy.
 
It wasn't real expensive.
So I'm probably just going to buy another one.
It's not leaking bad enough that I can't drive it.
 
New MAP sensor is in. And it's running on it, so that's cool.

I opened the TB vane just a smidge and I can get it to idle now, but it is hard still.
Once it idles it sit there and idle good.
It's getting it to start and idle all at once lol.

It'll get there.

Keep wondering if I have a vacuum leak though. It doesn't seem like it has much vac, and I have a problem with it dieing as soon as I stick it in gear.

Runs about 60kpa at idle. Not sure if that's good or bad lol.

I have the tank out changing the pump at the moment.

I did some data logs idling and a light drive around my loop.

You need to get the engine good and warm, and in park, and then open the butterflies until the IAC count is 5 or 10 when its idling at the target RPM. The you reteach the TPS. This will give the IAC a lot more travel to keep it running when its cold or in gear.

Also, did you change your idle RPM? You likely need a higher target idle RPM than before with the new cam, the new converter should allow it without pulling in gear.
 
So far, the iac has been running at 20 or so. Haven't tried adjusting it like that yet. Probably today.

I turned the idle up last night on the computer, but haven't tried it in the truck yet.

About to head up there now and slap the tank back in.
 
Drove it to work.:waytogo:

So far no hard pulls or anything. Just running it around at various light throttle letting it learn some.

Still have a problem in the idle area.

Making small adjustments to the idle stop, I either get a good idle and 0% IAC... Or good idle and 20 or so %.
I can't seem to get it to level out with anything near 10.
The idle bounces around so much that when it's that close to closed I think it bounces closed and kills it.
Same with starting it. It'll come up, idle up, ramp down too far, and die. But if I catch it right when it's about to die and give it a percent or two throttle, it stops and idles ok.


Just going to have to play with it more.:dunno:

The AF seems all over the place too.
Not sure if thats a big cam thing, or what.
Maybe the still learning thing...?

I'm going to get another data log tomorrow on the way home.
 

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