Both my crew cab and the C10 cruise at 40° to 45°.
CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
I have the cruise in my 489 at 50 degrees, but the LS combustion chamber likes less timing than an old big block.
On low load more timing gives better efficiency, up to a point.
On low load more timing gives better efficiency, up to a point.
I got tied up helping the wife yesterday, then sparked the fire pit up with my mom.
So I didn't get any tuning done.
Family is at school, so I'm just now heading out to do that lol.
I guess I shouldn't say I got tied up helping her.... More like, she asked me for a tool, and I had piles of them all over the shop...
So I cleaned and organized, while she did 90% of her stuff on her own. I just helped intermittently.
Lol.
So I didn't get any tuning done.
Family is at school, so I'm just now heading out to do that lol.
I guess I shouldn't say I got tied up helping her.... More like, she asked me for a tool, and I had piles of them all over the shop...
So I cleaned and organized, while she did 90% of her stuff on her own. I just helped intermittently.
Lol.
Dead spot didn't change even the slightest.
Timing table from the other day
What I ended at today. I tried going up, first.
And I did get a 0-60 of 5.6. That's pretty much where I was at before pretty much.
The dead spot is 1 second long. But it Is actually accelerating during it. Slightly.
I'm also not sure what the deal is with the speed jumping on shifts. Only thing I can think of is it's sensing the tire chirp...
It doesn't ping or rattle, and it pulls hard AF past about 3000
I was going to go to the same spot, offset the entire top row down like 3*. Then make another pull and compare.
Timing table from the other day
What I ended at today. I tried going up, first.
And I did get a 0-60 of 5.6. That's pretty much where I was at before pretty much.
The dead spot is 1 second long. But it Is actually accelerating during it. Slightly.
I'm also not sure what the deal is with the speed jumping on shifts. Only thing I can think of is it's sensing the tire chirp...
It doesn't ping or rattle, and it pulls hard AF past about 3000
I was going to go to the same spot, offset the entire top row down like 3*. Then make another pull and compare.
This is where I pretty much ride in all DD. In town and highway.
This is where the dead spot is.
It completely is the converter catching that's doing this. It's just the power at that spot isn't with it yet I think.
This is where the dead spot is.
It completely is the converter catching that's doing this. It's just the power at that spot isn't with it yet I think.
My weight distribution isn't helping the burnout situation any I'm sure lol.
And after I add 2 batteries, a super capacitor the size of the batteries, and a 300 or so pound speaker box. Not to mention a bunch of 1/0 wire, amp rack, and 3 amps. It's going to get real hard to break traction in this lol.
And after I add 2 batteries, a super capacitor the size of the batteries, and a 300 or so pound speaker box. Not to mention a bunch of 1/0 wire, amp rack, and 3 amps. It's going to get real hard to break traction in this lol.
I think we told the dude we got the converter from 6000# or 6200#. Something like that.
Which may be why it's all in at 2700 instead of closer to 3k... Maybe it'll change when the weight goes up..?
Which may be why it's all in at 2700 instead of closer to 3k... Maybe it'll change when the weight goes up..?
That's almost exactly the same as the 1990 V2500 Burb with the 502 in it. And yeah, quite tail heavy. The burb was almost exactly 50/50, and it would just take off if I tromped it, but I never tried to do a burnout with the 35s.
Considering what was requested..."in between" 2500 and 3000, being that and lighter than anticipated, he got it pretty darn close! Also, I think you still had cathedral ports when we got the converter? Unfortunately, that's the art of converters. He could probably change the stator and get more stall out of the same converter if you want to change it, you likely don't need an entirely different converter, but not sure it's worth your time and cost to remove it and ship it, etc?
Considering what was requested..."in between" 2500 and 3000, being that and lighter than anticipated, he got it pretty darn close! Also, I think you still had cathedral ports when we got the converter? Unfortunately, that's the art of converters. He could probably change the stator and get more stall out of the same converter if you want to change it, you likely don't need an entirely different converter, but not sure it's worth your time and cost to remove it and ship it, etc?
No I'm just going to work it out.
I'm going to try the DEX VI trick and see if it really raises the stall speed. And I'm sure that area can be tuned more.
Actually, the low end between the 317 and 823 doesn't change much. It's only above 4k that the 823 picks up power.
Direct comparison, same engine.
I'm going to try the DEX VI trick and see if it really raises the stall speed. And I'm sure that area can be tuned more.
Actually, the low end between the 317 and 823 doesn't change much. It's only above 4k that the 823 picks up power.
Direct comparison, same engine.
... Sooo.....
I was just about to to get in this thing and go home to get my stuff ready for work, and seen a puddle.
Rut ro raggy....
Top radiator hose nipple broke off.
It hadn't gotten hot yet, and still has coolant in the fill bottle. So it luckily must have happened close to the shop.
Maybe I overtightened the clamp, maybe it's just old as dirt since it looks like the factory one (420k mi). Dunno
I have one from the 96 454 burb I parted, but that one is designed for a normal overflow bottle. So I'm not sure it would work right.
New spectra premium is $175. Might just do that.
The diesel one has a barb at the very top that takes the air pockets out to the catch/fill bottle. Which is where the radiator cap actually is.
The gas one has the radiator cap in that spot, and the bard I could use to go to the catch/fill bottle is a couple inches from the top.
I could burp it initially with the cap. But I don't want 2 radiator caps. If the one on the radiator lets go, before the main one, would it cause issues.?
Where do I route THAT overflow line to.. etc.
I was just about to to get in this thing and go home to get my stuff ready for work, and seen a puddle.
Rut ro raggy....
Top radiator hose nipple broke off.
It hadn't gotten hot yet, and still has coolant in the fill bottle. So it luckily must have happened close to the shop.
Maybe I overtightened the clamp, maybe it's just old as dirt since it looks like the factory one (420k mi). Dunno
I have one from the 96 454 burb I parted, but that one is designed for a normal overflow bottle. So I'm not sure it would work right.
New spectra premium is $175. Might just do that.
The diesel one has a barb at the very top that takes the air pockets out to the catch/fill bottle. Which is where the radiator cap actually is.
The gas one has the radiator cap in that spot, and the bard I could use to go to the catch/fill bottle is a couple inches from the top.
I could burp it initially with the cap. But I don't want 2 radiator caps. If the one on the radiator lets go, before the main one, would it cause issues.?
Where do I route THAT overflow line to.. etc.
That's another chart that doesn't show below 3K, or 3100 in this case, larger heads definitely lose velocity, especially at lower RPM, everything is a tradeoff.
You put that combo in your cutlass and lose literally a ton of weight and it would be a fun ride!
Yeah, dyno plots are for cars!
At this point, if I could get $8k-$9k out of my crewcab, I'd put this in the Cutlass and build that 496 I've been wanting lol.
Doesn't show below 3k. But at 3k it's the same, and my issue is at 2700. I know there's a low end tradeoff. But i can't imagine it's more than 15-30 ftlbs different at 2700. Shouldn't be enough to make it fall on its face that bad.
That's a valid point, I am not there to feel what you are feeling, although I have felt engines before that the engine wasn't in the power band when the converter got tighter. It does feel like a delay, but sometimes the power comes on so strong after that it makes it feel slower than it is before that. You might want to try shutting off learning and closed loop compensation below 3000 just to have complete control over the fuel while you test it. I don't expect you to find some huge step in tuning at this point but it's possible.Doesn't show below 3k. But at 3k it's the same, and my issue is at 2700. I know there's a low end tradeoff. But i can't imagine it's more than 15-30 ftlbs different at 2700. Shouldn't be enough to make it fall on its face that bad.
