That was the idea. I've not kept up with the latest on caps but many have moved away for more batts. When I did my doors I used the map pocket as a mold and fiberglassed an enclosure in.
CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
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Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
A supercap is a capacitor. They just use different construction to get more capacitance per unit volume than standard (electrolytic) ones. The downside is they are only good for a few volts, so automotive ones are a bunch in series, which divides out the capacitance again, and requires internal balancing to prevent any single one from getting too much of the total voltage. Not everything sold for stereos are "real supercapacitors", just large capacity units. So they're kind of in the range between a traditional cap and a rechargeable battery.
The advantage of a battery is that the voltage is nearly fixed. A capacitor has constantly changing voltage whenever charge flows in or out of it. The advantage to the cap is it can supply higher peak current, but part of that is because it gets mounted closer to the load (amplifier) and avoids the L and R of the cable.
The advantage of a battery is that the voltage is nearly fixed. A capacitor has constantly changing voltage whenever charge flows in or out of it. The advantage to the cap is it can supply higher peak current, but part of that is because it gets mounted closer to the load (amplifier) and avoids the L and R of the cable.
I have 2 large AGM batteries hooked up with this cap, all sitting with about 18" of wire to the amp from the cap
Just ordered a MechMan 250 amp alt to feed it all.
I should have MORE than enough juice to feed the beast. But I wanted to make sure because this amp can pull 700-800 amps during hard dips.
This cap is actually six 3v 3000 farad super capacitors. In series as mentioned.
So it ends up capable of 18v and has a real capacitance of 500 farads.
Just ordered a MechMan 250 amp alt to feed it all.
I should have MORE than enough juice to feed the beast. But I wanted to make sure because this amp can pull 700-800 amps during hard dips.
This cap is actually six 3v 3000 farad super capacitors. In series as mentioned.
So it ends up capable of 18v and has a real capacitance of 500 farads.
All wired
I have about an hr to go at the dash wiring up the PWM unit for the alternator voltage control.
Then it's 100% wired power wise.
Then the door pods will truly be all that's left.
I can play it without them for now if I want. And take my time getting them done.
I have about an hr to go at the dash wiring up the PWM unit for the alternator voltage control.
Then it's 100% wired power wise.
Then the door pods will truly be all that's left.
I can play it without them for now if I want. And take my time getting them done.
That’s awesome.
Guy on another forum had a mechman fail on him recently. Melted the back cover. Sent it back to mechman to have a look at it and they admitted one of the diodes wasnt soldered well and popped off, shorting to the case.
I know they have a good reputation but everyone does have boners now and then. So keep an eye on it, and if it doesn't seem right dig into it. Lots of fire potential in there.
I know they have a good reputation but everyone does have boners now and then. So keep an eye on it, and if it doesn't seem right dig into it. Lots of fire potential in there.
That's why I went AGM instead of lithium.
Way too much BS to deal with on the Lithiums.
I just don't trust em.
If it's too cold, you have to adjust charge voltage.
If it's too warm, you have to adjust charge voltage.
Etc.
All of which =Fire.... Nope. Lol
Still gotta watch my chit. And that's why there's redundant overloads protection, and the disconnect switch.
As soon as I find a place, I'll have a big fire extinguisher in it too.
Way too much BS to deal with on the Lithiums.
I just don't trust em.
If it's too cold, you have to adjust charge voltage.
If it's too warm, you have to adjust charge voltage.
Etc.
All of which =Fire.... Nope. Lol
Still gotta watch my chit. And that's why there's redundant overloads protection, and the disconnect switch.
As soon as I find a place, I'll have a big fire extinguisher in it too.
I actually listened to the stereo today
It's not really adjusted yet, but it rocks lol.
Also, I'm going to run a test in the spring with this new air filter setup.
Testing to see if the old air cleaner is starving the engine, and causing the vacuum rise at high RPM the @folkenheath noticed.
If this helps that, I'll build a bigger box in place of the old one for this element.
Then see if it's still ok.
New vs old.
Pic is deceiving. They're the same base diameter, but the new one is 3.5" longer.
It's not really adjusted yet, but it rocks lol.
Also, I'm going to run a test in the spring with this new air filter setup.
Testing to see if the old air cleaner is starving the engine, and causing the vacuum rise at high RPM the @folkenheath noticed.
If this helps that, I'll build a bigger box in place of the old one for this element.
Then see if it's still ok.
New vs old.
Pic is deceiving. They're the same base diameter, but the new one is 3.5" longer.
At my power level if this doesn't change it, I'll consider it a venturi effect and move on lol.
I'm fairly certain that element and 4" pipe will feed up to 550, and I'm not sure I have that much even.
Just an estimate based on parts.
With all accessories I'm probably still less than 500 at the crank.
I'm fairly certain that element and 4" pipe will feed up to 550, and I'm not sure I have that much even.
Just an estimate based on parts.
With all accessories I'm probably still less than 500 at the crank.
I played a little hard on it and almost burned the subs up today 
Got a little excited and forgot they have to break in.
I got out to see how bad the doors rattled without the latches I added. By the time I got back in after this video I could smell hot voice coils lol.
Whoops. So down it went and played real low to keep em moving and cool them down.
I'll get better and more stable videos when I get them broke in
View attachment VID_20250129_151102365.mp4
Got a little excited and forgot they have to break in.
I got out to see how bad the doors rattled without the latches I added. By the time I got back in after this video I could smell hot voice coils lol.
Whoops. So down it went and played real low to keep em moving and cool them down.
I'll get better and more stable videos when I get them broke in
View attachment VID_20250129_151102365.mp4
How does the break-in improve power handling? I understand that the compliance increases with use (partially real and partially physco-acoustic), but power in a coil of wire is I^2R, apart from whatever airflow is happening from the cone/spider movement. Just run sealed boxes and then never smell it?
As the speakers spider and surround loosen up, the speaker gets easier for the voice coil to manipulate.
Building less heat as it does what the signal is telling it to.
Not sure why it works, but it does
Building less heat as it does what the signal is telling it to.
Not sure why it works, but it does
