I like the newer pans that have a thick metal strip to spread the load from the bolt
CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
I've looked at some on summit. Only odd part is none are really year specific, and stock ones are.
So I've narrowed it down by looks, because some have a shallower step at one end, and the stock pan has a taper on that end. So id assume that step is what I need.
So I've narrowed it down by looks, because some have a shallower step at one end, and the stock pan has a taper on that end. So id assume that step is what I need.
I would guess stock pan. I still run a stock pan on my Regal trans.
There is B&M, TCI, and Moroso in stock I can get.
You only need the step if you need to clear the exhaust or the crossmember or something. Just look under burb to see.
With that said the TCI is $280, Moroso $380, and B&M $400.
There is B&M, TCI, and Moroso in stock I can get.
You only need the step if you need to clear the exhaust or the crossmember or something. Just look under burb to see.
With that said the TCI is $280, Moroso $380, and B&M $400.
Like this.
This is the stock newer style
Older stock style like my current trans has.
And an aluminum one that doesn't have the step
Soni believe I'm headed in the right direction lol.
But, there's a possibility it'll have a good one on it.
I'm not sure. When you get to $5k rebuilds, who knows what's coming on it lol.
This is the stock newer style
Older stock style like my current trans has.
And an aluminum one that doesn't have the step
Soni believe I'm headed in the right direction lol.
But, there's a possibility it'll have a good one on it.
I'm not sure. When you get to $5k rebuilds, who knows what's coming on it lol.
I read that the angle part on the newer ones was to address the fluid running away from the filter pickup on hills and hard acceleration. They couldn't put that angle on the older one due to the lube tube that runs under the valve body to feed the rear of the trans.
Making a ramp instead of a wall for the fluid to not ride up during acceleration doesn't seem like it would work well.
I've seem many trans pans with exhaust crossover or crossmembers right in the way in the back of the pan. I wouldn't worry about the angled back unless you need it to clear something on your burb.
I can get FTI, I like their stuff, but that particular pan is not in stock, and to drop ship it would cost more than the sale price you showed.
I've seem many trans pans with exhaust crossover or crossmembers right in the way in the back of the pan. I wouldn't worry about the angled back unless you need it to clear something on your burb.
I can get FTI, I like their stuff, but that particular pan is not in stock, and to drop ship it would cost more than the sale price you showed.
Oh, and the lube locker was a fuggin joke. Total waste, and not what I thought it was.
I'm gonna pony up the $90 for a GM stocker O-ring style.
I thought the red was raised silicone beads that seal against and fill in gaps like an LS style gasket.
Totally not that even a little.
I'm gonna pony up the $90 for a GM stocker O-ring style.
I thought the red was raised silicone beads that seal against and fill in gaps like an LS style gasket.
Totally not that even a little.
Not sure if it would have worked or not. But I know it wasn't what I thought it was.
I could have sworn the 14b one I seen was large silicone welts that squished down when tightened.
This is a normal gasket with orange lines painted on it pretty much.
Bought from summit, not temu lol.
I could have sworn the 14b one I seen was large silicone welts that squished down when tightened.
This is a normal gasket with orange lines painted on it pretty much.
Bought from summit, not temu lol.
Tonight when I get off, I'm going to get the fluid level right, and try a test drive.
Last night all I did was drop 6 qts in it and move it 2' forward and back.
Think I'm still going to do an aluminum pan and probably give the lube locker a chance with it.
It's still a metal core and such.
Last night all I did was drop 6 qts in it and move it 2' forward and back.
Think I'm still going to do an aluminum pan and probably give the lube locker a chance with it.
It's still a metal core and such.
I think the lubelocker is a quality metal core gasket, but it's not like a newer factory GM gasket for a trans pan or the newer one piece oil pan gaskets that are thick embossed silicone with a metal core and with thick washers that somewhat prevent overtorquing, those can seal more issues than a lubelocker, I know what you mean Rick.
With a good quality pan either would work fine, with a bent up pan you may struggle with both but the GM has a better chance. However, I don't think I would spend $90 on a gasket if you can get a machined cast high capacity pan for a little over double that.
With a good quality pan either would work fine, with a bent up pan you may struggle with both but the GM has a better chance. However, I don't think I would spend $90 on a gasket if you can get a machined cast high capacity pan for a little over double that.
My main thing was not messing with the rubber gaskets when doing service. I'll probably change the filter/fluid every spring when I do oil.
Which is why I wanted a reusable.
The rubber ones may even be reusable with a machined aluminum flange. They just haven't sealed well in the past without rtv on my thin steel stockers.
The one positive about the stock GM one if I get it is it's about 1/4" thick, essentially giving you another qt almost of capacity before it says full.
Plus the anti squish washers, thick O-ring, and most builders consider it the best gasket available lol.
Which I figured out was why my old builder reused it when he did mine. He just didn't clean it up well in the process.
I dug into these hard when I planned to rebuild the broke one. Quite a bit of cool info out there.
Which is why I wanted a reusable.
The rubber ones may even be reusable with a machined aluminum flange. They just haven't sealed well in the past without rtv on my thin steel stockers.
The one positive about the stock GM one if I get it is it's about 1/4" thick, essentially giving you another qt almost of capacity before it says full.
Plus the anti squish washers, thick O-ring, and most builders consider it the best gasket available lol.
Which I figured out was why my old builder reused it when he did mine. He just didn't clean it up well in the process.
I dug into these hard when I planned to rebuild the broke one. Quite a bit of cool info out there.
I'm going to have to get under this thing while it's jacked up and running.
I'm actually thinking one of my evil energy hoses is weeping in the middle.
I used to think it was the power steering shaft, that I know is leaking, getting on the hose and dripping off..... But after idling about a half hr last night while checking the trans fluid, This was left staring at me. That doesn't look or feel like power steering fluid.
I'm actually thinking one of my evil energy hoses is weeping in the middle.
I used to think it was the power steering shaft, that I know is leaking, getting on the hose and dripping off..... But after idling about a half hr last night while checking the trans fluid, This was left staring at me. That doesn't look or feel like power steering fluid.
Lube lockers are reusable in a pinch, but they're going to leak. They do have slightly raised beads of silicone (that's the red stripes). I had one on my 4l80, but had to drop the pan and went to a rubber one. The rubber one leaks, the lube locker never did.
