CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
I pained the inner lip and threw a few extra coats on the bolt flange area.
Didn't get a pic but it got 2 coats of 3M rubberized undercoating in the wheel tub area and bolt flange also.
I sanded it and threw red Rust-Oleum primer on it.
I let that sit in a 60* shop for 2.5 days.
Then threw gray primer on it so I could sand and see high spots. Unnecessary for this, but I was playing.... And, it failed
I don't believe the red was done curing due to the 60* shop.
I'm going to paint the ends that would be available to hit when it's on, and bolt it on as is. By the time I'm ready to sand and prime the whole truck it'll either be fine, or I'll strip the outer skin and fix it then lol.
Didn't get a pic but it got 2 coats of 3M rubberized undercoating in the wheel tub area and bolt flange also.
I sanded it and threw red Rust-Oleum primer on it.
I let that sit in a 60* shop for 2.5 days.
Then threw gray primer on it so I could sand and see high spots. Unnecessary for this, but I was playing.... And, it failed
I don't believe the red was done curing due to the 60* shop.
I'm going to paint the ends that would be available to hit when it's on, and bolt it on as is. By the time I'm ready to sand and prime the whole truck it'll either be fine, or I'll strip the outer skin and fix it then lol.
Did some modifications for air flow In my new passenger side fender.
Old hole by air box
Hole in new fender.
It may open up more to the left , not sure yet when exactly the air box stops.
On the front lip , to get more air into the fender, I put some speed holes before.
The holes aren't cleaned up yet, but I think this will let more air in.
No pics yet, but I got the primer cracking thing ironed out. Turns out the red primer is what cracked. But only the last coat.
I was able to sand it all out and smooth it down pretty easy.
Had the grand kids the last couple days, so no real notable progress beyond that.
Old hole by air box
Hole in new fender.
It may open up more to the left , not sure yet when exactly the air box stops.
On the front lip , to get more air into the fender, I put some speed holes before.
The holes aren't cleaned up yet, but I think this will let more air in.
No pics yet, but I got the primer cracking thing ironed out. Turns out the red primer is what cracked. But only the last coat.
I was able to sand it all out and smooth it down pretty easy.
Had the grand kids the last couple days, so no real notable progress beyond that.
I did some more work on the air box opening , and started on the lip on the other fender.
I painted the old one white to try to show the depth difference better. But it still isn't as drastic looking as in person.
Old one has about 1"-1.25" between the scoop and outer skin.
I painted the old one white to try to show the depth difference better. But it still isn't as drastic looking as in person.
Old one has about 1"-1.25" between the scoop and outer skin.
Posted that too quick lol
New one. Only about .25"-.375" gap.
I'm not going to weld the fillers in any more than that, or worry about smoothing them. It's just directing air flow in am unseen location
Also appears that I'll be able to open this wall up out to the red line and stay within the confines of the air box.
Lip on the other one, which is ready to go back on.
New one. Only about .25"-.375" gap.
I'm not going to weld the fillers in any more than that, or worry about smoothing them. It's just directing air flow in am unseen location
Also appears that I'll be able to open this wall up out to the red line and stay within the confines of the air box.
Lip on the other one, which is ready to go back on.
Opened the hole up a little more. Not sure if it needed it or will help... But why not
All welding on the lip is done. So now it's time to prime everything and undercoat the wheel well area.
Should get the door pins tomorrow.
If I get the door back on I'll be able to start bolting fenders back on.
Once I can lift it again.... Transmission time
All welding on the lip is done. So now it's time to prime everything and undercoat the wheel well area.
Should get the door pins tomorrow.
If I get the door back on I'll be able to start bolting fenders back on.
Once I can lift it again.... Transmission time
Whats the specs on the new trans?
Um..... Still a 4l80E..... Well respected shop and dude built it..... And, that's all I know lol.
@folkenheath sent me some stuff about it with the quote. I'll look back to find it.
Supposed to be built to handle like 1000hp in my truck I believe.
@folkenheath sent me some stuff about it with the quote. I'll look back to find it.
Supposed to be built to handle like 1000hp in my truck I believe.
Don't you have a picture of that thing from when you picked it up? That billet converter looks bad@$$.
Speaking of the bilet converter.....
It's got 6 bolt pads like the last one, but this go round I REALLY want to use all of them. So, I think I'm going to have to mark and drill the other 3 in my flex plate.
It's got 6 bolt pads like the last one, but this go round I REALLY want to use all of them. So, I think I'm going to have to mark and drill the other 3 in my flex plate.
I waited all week for those $120 Endura pins, and they won't work on my driver's door .
When I did MY backyard mechanic fix. I drilled out the pin holes to fit 3/8" bolts. So the bushing holes are all 1/2" and the pin holes are all 3/8.
Meaning it stays the way it is and I just EnduraPin the passenger side. Or buy new hinges and go through that horrible process.
Being a gmt400 the hinges are welded on of course
Oh well. This works for now
.When I did MY backyard mechanic fix. I drilled out the pin holes to fit 3/8" bolts. So the bushing holes are all 1/2" and the pin holes are all 3/8.
Meaning it stays the way it is and I just EnduraPin the passenger side. Or buy new hinges and go through that horrible process.
Being a gmt400 the hinges are welded on of course
Oh well. This works for now
Being 'Auto Metal Direct', the fenders are needing some tweaking. But over all they're not bad.
So I think the hood will stay off, and I'll pick up the AMD 4" cowl hood some time here.
Might drive it around town with the hood off a few times even
Now on to all the little dings in the rest of the body. Some I'm going to fix, some I'll probably leave and do a few coats of high build and block sand over to lessen them. Don't want to spend loads of time trying to REALLY straighten it, when I intend to drive it regularly and beat the snot out of it.
Which is also a concern I've come up with about my rear lower quarters.....
I can get this to do burnouts semi easily now. Not the burnouts I wanted, but it's getting easier and better all the time. So if I spend all the time required to weld in and smooth out the nice lower quarters I have, then blow a tire in a burnout, they'll be trashed.
I hope NOT to blow a tire in a burnout, but also want to run my tires to the cords almost before swapping to a new set also. In the end I'll have to do them eventually, but I might half azz the patches for now,, do light bondo work in them, and save the good metal for a few years of play time yet and just replace em if the panel looks like it's going to get too bad for my replacement to cover the bad area.... If that ramble makes any sense anyway...
So I think the hood will stay off, and I'll pick up the AMD 4" cowl hood some time here.
Might drive it around town with the hood off a few times even
Now on to all the little dings in the rest of the body. Some I'm going to fix, some I'll probably leave and do a few coats of high build and block sand over to lessen them. Don't want to spend loads of time trying to REALLY straighten it, when I intend to drive it regularly and beat the snot out of it.
Which is also a concern I've come up with about my rear lower quarters.....
I can get this to do burnouts semi easily now. Not the burnouts I wanted, but it's getting easier and better all the time. So if I spend all the time required to weld in and smooth out the nice lower quarters I have, then blow a tire in a burnout, they'll be trashed.
I hope NOT to blow a tire in a burnout, but also want to run my tires to the cords almost before swapping to a new set also. In the end I'll have to do them eventually, but I might half azz the patches for now,, do light bondo work in them, and save the good metal for a few years of play time yet and just replace em if the panel looks like it's going to get too bad for my replacement to cover the bad area...
. If that ramble makes any sense anyway...
