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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
Overview Gallery Discussion
Watching that dyno, with 700+ ftlbs everywhere was awesome though lol.
I could probably BB swap cheaper than boost this though lol.
Last time I started up the figures I came up with about $10-$12k.
 
shady said:
Watching that dyno, with 700+ ftlbs everywhere was awesome though lol.
I could probably BB swap cheaper than boost this though lol.
Last time I started up the figures I came up with about $10-$12k.
Click to expand...
Really? I'm coming in at around $7500 for mine.
 
I've seen a little 100 shot add 225 lb-ft of torque when it turns on.

It's definitely not boost, but its certainly the some of the cheapest power you can get. Cost is the primary reason the regal has nitrous and not boost.
 
Babaganoosh said:
Really? I'm coming in at around $7500 for mine.
Click to expand...
Screenshot_20260107-110431.png

And that's just the supercharger. You still need the intercooler (rad side), cooler tank, hoses, probable cam swap since your in there, etc.

Plus, not sure how they did it, but most likely to be safe and not have to run 200 octane gas, dished pistons too.
 
shady said:
View attachment 520269

And that's just the supercharger. You still need the intercooler (rad side), cooler tank, hoses, probable cam swap since your in there, etc.

Plus, not sure how they did it, but most likely to be safe and not have to run 200 octane gas, dished pistons too.
Click to expand...
Here is what I'm looking at, all though my lq4 is cathedral head. Dished pistons? never heard of her... :pimp:
 
Since I'm going with the 3500 stall, in all reality I could to a pro charger style or something, since it'd be in boost before the converter came on whole.
But I've always , like my whole car kid life, wanted a twin screw charger. All the pics I drew had one, etc.

And the main reason at this point that I'm looking at doing so is the MAW.
I've decided that this is probably it for me on project vehicles. I'll stay with this one and just keep improving it. If I get everything I can think of done, I'll revamp something I did a long time ago lol.
I don't want 5 different projects, storing them, plates, insurance, etc.
I bought this with what was left of my dad's life insurance after burying him. So it's his last gift to me.

Unless when it's done someone offers me like $75k for it or something, I'll have this one forever.
If I didn't take that check, my dad would climb out of his grave just to personally slap the chit out of me :haha:

So if that's the case, the only way I'm getting my dream of twin screws is in this truck lol.:waytogo:
 
I guess I do still have the blue truck to work on, so there is that.... But it may go away one day also. :dunno:
Already had it up for sale twice, so maybe I'm stuck with it lol
 
I'm in the same boat with mine, can't let it go because it's Dad's old truck. I honestly don't know how much is into mine but if I had to guess it's somewhere in that range.
 
Got the antenna in and the passenger fender on today.IMG_20260108_151812433_MP.jpg

Then I attempted to get this set of dents out
IMG_20260108_153129941_HDR.jpg

with this cheap Amazon dent kit:rolleyes:

Screenshot_20260108-222243.png

Which worked absolutely not at all :haha:
Thinking about tack welding a 1/4" bolt in it and trying to pull on that lol.
 
Have you used a weld-on stud puller? Welding small fasteners would be pretty similar, as long as you can connect a slide hammer to them. Could you get a flat basketball behind it?
 
I looked at buying the weld on one.
For the few I have to play with I'm thinking about just talking on 1/4"-20s because they'd fit the puller tools I bought I think. Maybe 5/16"

I also found that there's a plastic plug on the inner side of the corner dent, so I should be able to get behind it with a dowel or something to pop it out a bunch.
Gotta get it in the air first though.
Now that both fenders are on, I'll probably do that today.
 
We talked about a 5.3/4l60 swap. But that's about as far as that one will go.
At least until she learns how to DRIVE it. She's never even done a burnout before. And she owns a V8 monza now. She's got some learning to do before it gets wild :thumb:
Figured a 5.3 with the infamous 'sloppy stage 2' cam, or something would be about all that one needs. Maybe punch it out .030 if we rebuilt it. Lol.

Later it could be stroked and heads, etc.

In reality it'll probably stay what it is and maybe stroke what it has later lol
 
Slowly taking shape.
As of today I'll have all of the dings and such done and primer coated.
Next step is get it in the air, get the transmission in, and both coolers done.

Then it's on to rust repair.
IMG_20260109_134639035_MP.jpgIMG_20260109_134536050_HDR.jpgIMG_20260109_134545118_HDR.jpg

And this big SOB is DIRTY!IMG_20260109_134653967_HDR.jpg
 
So...

The transmission guru told me he thought my drive shaft was the cause of my trans failure. I believe he knows WAY more than I do, so I'm inclined to believe there's something there.

It seems absolutely fine with my old trans. No vibrations, all smooth, no issues at all except the trans isn't tough enough for the power being old and stock lol.
No idea what would be different between the two. Except.....
The tail shaft. :thinking:
Screenshot_20260110-194832.png
My 95 has this full spline one for sure.....
But my 2005 one had threads in the end like a fixed yoke would have, and I'm fairly positive it did NOT have splines all the way down.

So, could have caused a wobble at full stuff. Which leads me to my other observation.

I think my shaft is too long!:rolleyes::whistle::haha:

No seriously.... When the truck is under its own weight theres about 3.5" between tire and fender lip. But when it's on the lift it's more like 15"-18".
At that full drop spot, when I take all my u joint bolts out and push it forward to remove it, it moves about 1/2" past the diff yoke and stops.
Now that I lowered it, I wonder if I'm shoving the Dshaft up the trannys tail just a little to far:thinking::haha:

I've killed 2 tail new seals on the back of it, one in the old trans, and the one from the "rebuilt" 05 was leaking when I took it apart too.

There's a race shop near me. I'm thinking about asking them who they recommend for a new aluminum shaft. Then dropping the truck off with them and having a new one built to it.

First thing I'm going to do when I get the trans back in, is lower it so all the weight is on the rear axle and see how much play the Dshaft has back and forth.
And probably also should figure out some limiter straps for the tail:thinking:
 
I also need to verify my new tail shaft type and make sure the new Dshaft matches it.
Get a fixed yoke if need be or something.
 
Here's the rust that I have to deal with.
Still not bad for a 30 yr old truck in the rust belt with 420+k on it :dunno: :waytogo:IMG_20260110_131122049_HDR.jpgIMG_20260110_131041513_HDR.jpgIMG_20260110_131049474_MP.jpgIMG_20260110_131100935_HDR.jpgIMG_20260110_131107312_HDR.jpg

And a few small spots across the very bottoms of the rear doors.Screenshot_20260111-014225.pngScreenshot_20260111-014204.png
 
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