I argue with myself over doing a nitrous build constantly. I don't want the hassle of the bottle and I want the power all the time. But when I look at where and how I drive 99.9% of the time, I wouldn't hardly use the bottle but maybe once a week if that and even then it would only be for a one gear pull because by that point I'm either into traffic or well over the speed limit. So would the bottle really be that big of a hassle? Heck the only time I'm in boost in my tundra is when I'm data logging for it. Otherwise I'm never in it.
CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
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Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
I'm ALWAYS in it in the burb lol.
It's gonna get me in trouble yet.
Already been hassled pulled over due to mashing it block to block once and when I slowed to the stop there was 2 cop cars sitting at a house around the corner.
I seen 2 guys that rode together all the time there.
About a week later I was driving down my road, all legal like, and seen them coming up on a side road.
The passenger put his arm out the window and pointed me out to his buddy and I got pulled over
"Cause my 3rd brake light didn't work". Even though they had the cherrys on before I had to touch my brakes .
It's gonna get me in trouble yet.
Already been hassled pulled over due to mashing it block to block once and when I slowed to the stop there was 2 cop cars sitting at a house around the corner.
I seen 2 guys that rode together all the time there.
About a week later I was driving down my road, all legal like, and seen them coming up on a side road.
The passenger put his arm out the window and pointed me out to his buddy and I got pulled over
"Cause my 3rd brake light didn't work". Even though they had the cherrys on before I had to touch my brakes .
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Nitrous is pretty much worthless on the street, not enough traction and/or immediately illegal speed. I really only use it on the track.
I originally planned to boost the regal, but when I looked at the cost, I decided nitrous would do what I need for a fraction of the cost and I can leave it off all other times.
I originally planned to boost the regal, but when I looked at the cost, I decided nitrous would do what I need for a fraction of the cost and I can leave it off all other times.
This is the holdner vid I was thinking about.
Had me thinking turbo for a long time.
And I think I could get the turbo sounds leveled out enough.
Like building it to not flutter, and connecting the waste gate pipe back into the exhaust.
Turbo sounds on a stock truck or semi don't bother me.
My dream has always been twin rotor. Whether roots or screws though. In fact, I kind of want it to peak out of my cowl hood just barely.
That's why I started looking at the M.O.A.B. from magnuson .
Because it's technically a modern blower in a 6-71 package.
Even has the bypass like the moderns do.
Was thinking one of those, with dual Terminator X 4150 throttle bodies and one of these with the butterfly s left out. Would look t1ts
Had me thinking turbo for a long time.
And I think I could get the turbo sounds leveled out enough.
Like building it to not flutter, and connecting the waste gate pipe back into the exhaust.
Turbo sounds on a stock truck or semi don't bother me.
My dream has always been twin rotor. Whether roots or screws though. In fact, I kind of want it to peak out of my cowl hood just barely.
That's why I started looking at the M.O.A.B. from magnuson .
Because it's technically a modern blower in a 6-71 package.
Even has the bypass like the moderns do.
Was thinking one of those, with dual Terminator X 4150 throttle bodies and one of these with the butterfly s left out. Would look t1ts
Sand, wait, and re-spray went well.
And I now have a full exhaust for the first time on this lol
Pieced it together out of pipe and bends I had laying around, so even better
Part I was worried about most was getting above the axle far enough, and getting past the shock on the driver's side.
Came out alright and clears everything.
And it doesn't sound too bad either lol.
(Cue crappy cell vid sound..)
View attachment VID_20260423_143419990.mp4
View attachment VID_20260423_143532104.mp4
That's 3" out the tail, H pipe at trans X member, Thrush Welded mufflers.
And I now have a full exhaust for the first time on this lol
Pieced it together out of pipe and bends I had laying around, so even better
Part I was worried about most was getting above the axle far enough, and getting past the shock on the driver's side.
Came out alright and clears everything.
And it doesn't sound too bad either lol.
(Cue crappy cell vid sound..)
View attachment VID_20260423_143419990.mp4
View attachment VID_20260423_143532104.mp4
That's 3" out the tail, H pipe at trans X member, Thrush Welded mufflers.
Not a lot of packaging options in there... 
Not without entirely stripping the engine compartment and starting from scratch anyway.
So, fug it, if it gets boost it's gonna be twin screws and I'm going to have to file my p*ssy skin down and fuggin deal with it lol.
Not without entirely stripping the engine compartment and starting from scratch anyway.
So, fug it, if it gets boost it's gonna be twin screws and I'm going to have to file my p*ssy skin down and fuggin deal with it lol.
I'm actually kind of wondering if it's an artifact of the head issues I've had the last year.
Certain chit smells different than I remember,
Ive noticed a change in my tinnitus,
And I've had a slight loss of feeling in my fingers and a few other places.
Among other things.
So since I wanted twin screws forever, and now have issues with the sound of them..... ?
Certain chit smells different than I remember,
Ive noticed a change in my tinnitus,
And I've had a slight loss of feeling in my fingers and a few other places.
Among other things.
So since I wanted twin screws forever, and now have issues with the sound of them..... ?
Few more exhaust shots just cause I have them
And this panel is almost done.
I was waiting on the one tiny little corner to harden. Filling a small shape void with glazing putty.
Then I'll block over it all once more for high spots, and prime that part fully.
Now it's the n to the most dreaded, and final part of this journey. The bottom of the back doors.
The one part every one sees the most.
Because it's what your staring at while driving or at an intersection. And I have to make seams in the flat part staring at you.
And this panel is almost done.
I was waiting on the one tiny little corner to harden. Filling a small shape void with glazing putty.
Then I'll block over it all once more for high spots, and prime that part fully.
Now it's the n to the most dreaded, and final part of this journey. The bottom of the back doors.
The one part every one sees the most.
Because it's what your staring at while driving or at an intersection. And I have to make seams in the flat part staring at you.
I cut into a tail door last night.
Figured that'd give me the jump I needed to do it.
Start cutting and I don't have a choice but to fix it lol.
I'll get pics of what it looks like inside later today.
Hopefully be welding a new piece/pieces in tomorrow .
Figured that'd give me the jump I needed to do it.
Start cutting and I don't have a choice but to fix it lol.
I'll get pics of what it looks like inside later today.
Hopefully be welding a new piece/pieces in tomorrow .
Here's another blower whine video for you to enjoy!
Also...
I found a good drivers rear door at a local yard. $125.
Going to pick it up tomorrow.
It does have a minor dent but it's high enough and shallow enough I can pop it out and smooth it easy enough.
Maybe 10"-12" long, about 6-8 wide, and 1/2" or so deep at the middle.about 10" down from the window maybe.
I found a good drivers rear door at a local yard. $125.
Going to pick it up tomorrow.
It does have a minor dent but it's high enough and shallow enough I can pop it out and smooth it easy enough.
Maybe 10"-12" long, about 6-8 wide, and 1/2" or so deep at the middle.about 10" down from the window maybe.
Doors back on...
But...
I'm fairly positive I won't make the power tour
I can't see it being painted in 3-4 weeks.
It just seems like there's WAY too much to be done.
Just building the temp paint booth with be a couple days.
And I want a full week of sit time before it hits the road after paint.
That cuts me down to it has to be painted by the end of May minimum.
Might make it. But fug I'm feeling the crush.
And I seem to find myself in the shop doing dumb chit instead of masking windows, or sanding something. Etc.
Little chit that just take time, and isn't noisy, I could easily do. But my body hurts, and I tend to sit and look at it. Doing random other chit.
But...
I'm fairly positive I won't make the power tour
I can't see it being painted in 3-4 weeks.
It just seems like there's WAY too much to be done.
Just building the temp paint booth with be a couple days.
And I want a full week of sit time before it hits the road after paint.
That cuts me down to it has to be painted by the end of May minimum.
Might make it. But fug I'm feeling the crush.
And I seem to find myself in the shop doing dumb chit instead of masking windows, or sanding something. Etc.
Little chit that just take time, and isn't noisy, I could easily do. But my body hurts, and I tend to sit and look at it. Doing random other chit.
The dent
View attachment VID_20260430_140503063.mp4
The little bit of rust, that's actually about the same as the front passenger.
(Inner front passenger)
I'm eventually going to have to do some major door work.
Probably just replace the fronts at that time, and hopefully the gmt400 fad that's starting will push them to make rears by that point lol.
View attachment VID_20260430_140503063.mp4
The little bit of rust, that's actually about the same as the front passenger.
(Inner front passenger)
I'm eventually going to have to do some major door work.
Probably just replace the fronts at that time, and hopefully the gmt400 fad that's starting will push them to make rears by that point lol.
You don’t need to wait a week to drive it after paint.
Buy quality paint and clear, let it sit to next day and put it together.
Thats what I did when I painted my bike then rode it to Alberta.
I’m not saying you need to buy HOK paint, but it’d be alot cooler if you did!
Buy quality paint and clear, let it sit to next day and put it together.
Thats what I did when I painted my bike then rode it to Alberta.
I’m not saying you need to buy HOK paint, but it’d be alot cooler if you did!
It's a single stage, so no clear protection, and I want to let it cure well before bug guys stick on it.
That chits brutal on paint lol.
I've had the paint for a while, so that part just is what it is I guess.
I didn't want to try and get a matte/satin finish with 2 stage, because it's real easy to get the matte/satin clears milky looking in corners, valleys, etc.
That chits brutal on paint lol.
I've had the paint for a while, so that part just is what it is I guess.
I didn't want to try and get a matte/satin finish with 2 stage, because it's real easy to get the matte/satin clears milky looking in corners, valleys, etc.
Car paint is catalyzed and cures hard in under an hour. It's not like Rustoleum that's still tacky the next day. The paint should have instructions, and it depends on which hardener you're using. A lot of body shops put them out on the street the same day, but there are also places that wait a couple of days before putting stripes or molding on.
The Sherwin williams 2 part automotive paint I used when I was building machinery could be touched that afternoon. But for like 4 or 5 days it was easy to blemish.
So I figured I'm gonna error on the side of caution.
No reason not to really
It's just a couple days. If they're nice ones, I'll set it outside starting the next day so the sun can help it all out too.
So I figured I'm gonna error on the side of caution.
No reason not to really
It's just a couple days. If they're nice ones, I'll set it outside starting the next day so the sun can help it all out too.
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