CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
Also... Decided on that because some of the body/ paint channels I watch, let em sit a few days. 
I don't mind driving it around the 25-30 mph streets after a couple days. I just don't want to hit a June bug, or like a flock of bees at 75 for a bit longer lol.
I don't mind driving it around the 25-30 mph streets after a couple days. I just don't want to hit a June bug, or like a flock of bees at 75 for a bit longer lol.
Been watching vids like this to see if I can get past the teeth drill thing...
It's working I think...
I was able to watch it all anyway lol
Going to do it again with the bigger better speakers at work, and turn it up
Beat my brain and teeth into submission!
Lol
It's working I think...
I was able to watch it all anyway lol
Going to do it again with the bigger better speakers at work, and turn it up
Beat my brain and teeth into submission!
Lol
I watched the Cadillac part like 5 times last night at work lol.
Stock inner tail door vs the aftermarket piece
So I just bent a new one out of 16ga.
Thought I had a pic. But basically it's the same radius as the stock one.
Much better lol.
Stock inner tail door vs the aftermarket piece
So I just bent a new one out of 16ga.
Thought I had a pic. But basically it's the same radius as the stock one.
Much better lol.
I REALLY wish I had remembered to put the stock transmission dipstick back in. 
I f***in HATE this thing.
12 qts in
Added most of another qt.
Looks like maybe 2/3 up.....
Then you turn it in the light and it's shiny as hell all the way up.
So is it at the top.? Or what? Fuggin hate it.
Dip it in the new fluid in the bucket, ... Bright red thick and easy to read.
There's no way it need more..... Can it?
I f***in HATE this thing.
12 qts in
Added most of another qt.
Looks like maybe 2/3 up.....
Then you turn it in the light and it's shiny as hell all the way up.
So is it at the top.? Or what? Fuggin hate it.
Dip it in the new fluid in the bucket, ... Bright red thick and easy to read.
There's no way it need more..... Can it?
Oil level ones work.
This is the first transmission one I've used and it's ridiculous..
Be different if trans fluid was thicker or something.
My old dipstick WILL go back in.
I just have to hope I don't fubar this transmission because of this one.
After watching the "how to fill a 4l80E" vid from Jake's transmission. I'm pretty sure I'M the one who killed my last one, by filling it wrong with this dipstick.
This is the first transmission one I've used and it's ridiculous..
Be different if trans fluid was thicker or something.
My old dipstick WILL go back in.
I just have to hope I don't fubar this transmission because of this one.
After watching the "how to fill a 4l80E" vid from Jake's transmission. I'm pretty sure I'M the one who killed my last one, by filling it wrong with this dipstick.
When you add trans fluid (through the dipstick tube) I always run the dipstick in and out several times to clean out the excess and then wipe it off another time and then check it again. Even after that, you still have to look at both sides of the dipstick, if they don't match, that's not the fluid level.
Can't see anything at all on the back side of this one ever.
I always add. Then let it sit off, or even idling, for 10-15 minutes before I check again.
Then I always check twice, before adding or not.
I always add. Then let it sit off, or even idling, for 10-15 minutes before I check again.
Then I always check twice, before adding or not.
I'm like 13 qts in now.
That's GOT to be full. But I'm petrified to fug this trans up by trying it.
Last one I took out and drove normal and goosed it a couple decent pulls at 9qts.
Then came back, checked it, put more in, etc.
That couple times of shifting low on fluid was probably all it took to start it's down fall.
This time I had 10 in and drove it VERY gently around the block once. Then yesterday drove it gently again, at 12, but kept it in first the whole way around the block.
I've read that the 4l80E can take up to 14 to fill depending on the setup. From bone dry. So with 13 ish, I've got to be close.
That's GOT to be full. But I'm petrified to fug this trans up by trying it.
Last one I took out and drove normal and goosed it a couple decent pulls at 9qts.
Then came back, checked it, put more in, etc.
That couple times of shifting low on fluid was probably all it took to start it's down fall.
This time I had 10 in and drove it VERY gently around the block once. Then yesterday drove it gently again, at 12, but kept it in first the whole way around the block.
I've read that the 4l80E can take up to 14 to fill depending on the setup. From bone dry. So with 13 ish, I've got to be close.
Other than the pan, the converter size is mainly what changes how many quarts it needs, and you don't have a large converter.
Are you sure that dipstick is at the correct level? The fluid level should be flush with the top of the pan when running warm.
Too low is obviously bad, but too high can foam the fluid and cause similar pressure problems.
Are you sure that dipstick is at the correct level? The fluid level should be flush with the top of the pan when running warm.
Too low is obviously bad, but too high can foam the fluid and cause similar pressure problems.
You can get dye for oils. I use red in our powertrain oil and blue in our hydraulic oil in all my Cat equipment at work. The stuff I use I get from Cat but they sell it all over. Super potent stuff. A tiny bit will do a 300 gallon bulk tank.
I think now they use a lot less dye in the ATF so I just use a paper towel to see the level accurately but adding dye can help
Depth was set when I bought this dipstick.
I tried the paper towel at 8.5 or 9 qts with the last transmission, and it gets enough on it to wet the paper towel just from running.
So at that, which is Definitely not enough, I was still wetting the paper the whole length of the check area.
That why I stopped that and just been trying to use bright light.
With a flat stick, like the stock one, it's clearly easy to see where it's at.
But to get it back in I pretty much have to pull the trans. Or take both motor mounts out and set the engine on the cross member for a bit maybe lol.
That, or cut the tube in 2, and devise a way to connect it back together in place. Thought about finding a hose that fits tight on it, and hose clamps.
Only reason I haven't done that is I'm afraid it'll catch in the tube every time I try to put it back in.
May just try it anyway.
I tried the paper towel at 8.5 or 9 qts with the last transmission, and it gets enough on it to wet the paper towel just from running.
So at that, which is Definitely not enough, I was still wetting the paper the whole length of the check area.
That why I stopped that and just been trying to use bright light.
With a flat stick, like the stock one, it's clearly easy to see where it's at.
But to get it back in I pretty much have to pull the trans. Or take both motor mounts out and set the engine on the cross member for a bit maybe lol.
That, or cut the tube in 2, and devise a way to connect it back together in place. Thought about finding a hose that fits tight on it, and hose clamps.
Only reason I haven't done that is I'm afraid it'll catch in the tube every time I try to put it back in.
May just try it anyway.
With paper towel you need to check both sides, if one side has lower level or none then it is low
