CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
I would test that windex and paint as that could leave a little bit if chemicals on the surface.
Been using it for quite a while. Primed and painted after it quite a bit.
No issue so far
I trust it way more than the DA at this point.
I plan on trying this though. It's what half the painter dudes on YT use.
No issue so far
I trust it way more than the DA at this point.
I plan on trying this though. It's what half the painter dudes on YT use.
My issue with the GMT400 is the lack of adjustment. And of course the crappy dash pad that crumbles after years of sun......
It'll do.View attachment 526965View attachment 526966
I made a bunny..... I think
Maybe a dog....View attachment 526967
Hood lines up like chit. No fuggin idea what to do with it. Hope I get it straight.
I Really don't want to blow the clip back apart to start over.View attachment 526970View attachment 526971
Hard to see here, but that rear corner is below the fender by 1/4" easy.View attachment 526972
Drivers side started.
View attachment 526976View attachment 526977
If the tub is perfect, things lign up right.
If there a hint of a tweak, you can't lign them up.
Everything else I like about them
Got a good jump on the doors. But waiting for bushings.
Also, elongated the hood hinge holes, but haven't tried it yet.
I'd have the jambs painted tonight, but I'm gonna go in for a few hrs of voluntary OT tonight.
Won't have the bushings till Wednesday or Thursday anyway.
Ordered the standard pin kit, then decided on a different route for the drivers door hinges, so I needed the oversized bushings.
Also, elongated the hood hinge holes, but haven't tried it yet.
I'd have the jambs painted tonight, but I'm gonna go in for a few hrs of voluntary OT tonight.
Won't have the bushings till Wednesday or Thursday anyway.
Ordered the standard pin kit, then decided on a different route for the drivers door hinges, so I needed the oversized bushings.
Tomorrow plan to finish these jambs, put the hood back on, and start prepping plastic pieces.
Gotta doo the fangs, front valance, grille, bumper to grille gap piece, D pillar covers, and cowl.
Sand, adhesion promoter , and put them back on.
(Accept valance)
They'll get painted with the body.
I'm still trying to make my mind up on doing the door handles too.
Mirrors will get painted, but stay black.
Debated doing those body color too, but think it'd be too much.
Could always do them and replace/repaint them if I don't like it.
Gotta doo the fangs, front valance, grille, bumper to grille gap piece, D pillar covers, and cowl.
Sand, adhesion promoter , and put them back on.
(Accept valance)
They'll get painted with the body.
I'm still trying to make my mind up on doing the door handles too.
Mirrors will get painted, but stay black.
Debated doing those body color too, but think it'd be too much.
Could always do them and replace/repaint them if I don't like it.
Hood fits better. But I'm not sure what to do beyond this..... ?
Front right is still high. Been twisting the hood, raised that corner of the fender, lowered the latch all the way to set it on the bumps, shimming, etc. this is the extreme of all of that done.
At least I can close it and it's centered.
I'll worry about the rest some other time.
It's almost like the contour line of the hood and the fender it's supposed to match, don't match.
Front right is still high. Been twisting the hood, raised that corner of the fender, lowered the latch all the way to set it on the bumps, shimming, etc. this is the extreme of all of that done.
At least I can close it and it's centered.
I'll worry about the rest some other time.
It's almost like the contour line of the hood and the fender it's supposed to match, don't match.
On the doors....
I don't have to change my butchered hinges on the driver's door.
I figured out a way to fix mine.
The problem with mine was that I drilled the small end hole out to replace the pins with 3/8" bolts.
I did some measuring and found I had the room to drill them to 1/2 and put the endura pin bushings in there. Giving me the correct and centered hole diameter.... No more pin wobble
Which is why I'm waiting for more bushings. Lol
I don't have to change my butchered hinges on the driver's door.
I figured out a way to fix mine.
The problem with mine was that I drilled the small end hole out to replace the pins with 3/8" bolts.
I did some measuring and found I had the room to drill them to 1/2 and put the endura pin bushings in there. Giving me the correct and centered hole diameter.... No more pin wobble
Which is why I'm waiting for more bushings. Lol
We have a '95 chevy here at work that wouldn't take bushings anymore. I drilled the holes out and just installed 1/2" bolts with no bushings. Hasn't failed again yet. 
Hinge is welded to the fender.
At the back above the hinge, the fender was higher than the hood. By 1/4" or so. And the the front part farther out, the hood was 3/4" - 1" above the fender.
I shimmed the hinge end up, to make it level with the fender, then put a 2x4 under the Front corner of the drivers side, and pushed down on the passenger to twist/tweak the whole hood corner to corner.
Then, it was closer but still bad, so I shimmed to front of the fender up off of the core support.
Which got it to where it is now.
The fenders line up with the body line at the doors, and the hood is level with the fenders now back there.
Core support is evenly spaced off the frame, fenders are evenly spaced/shimmed off of it..
And the hood is 1/2" or so higher on the passenger side.... So it's still like the whole AMD hood is tweaked corner to corner.
Good enough for race truck
So I'm just going to continue on, and get it painted.
I can tweak hoods and fenders all winter or on rainy days. Lol.
Currently, if I was to twist the hood and make it level at the front, it would be higher than the fenders 1/4" on both sides.
And the hood latch is adjusted all the way down already. Slot them and the hood won't work anymore...
So... both fenders spaced farther off the core..?
If I ignore it long enough I won't care as much maybe
What's funny is with all the GM pieces, there were no shims.
At the back above the hinge, the fender was higher than the hood. By 1/4" or so. And the the front part farther out, the hood was 3/4" - 1" above the fender.
I shimmed the hinge end up, to make it level with the fender, then put a 2x4 under the Front corner of the drivers side, and pushed down on the passenger to twist/tweak the whole hood corner to corner.
Then, it was closer but still bad, so I shimmed to front of the fender up off of the core support.
Which got it to where it is now.
The fenders line up with the body line at the doors, and the hood is level with the fenders now back there.
Core support is evenly spaced off the frame, fenders are evenly spaced/shimmed off of it..
And the hood is 1/2" or so higher on the passenger side.... So it's still like the whole AMD hood is tweaked corner to corner.
Good enough for race truck
So I'm just going to continue on, and get it painted.
I can tweak hoods and fenders all winter or on rainy days. Lol.
Currently, if I was to twist the hood and make it level at the front, it would be higher than the fenders 1/4" on both sides.
And the hood latch is adjusted all the way down already. Slot them and the hood won't work anymore...
So... both fenders spaced farther off the core..?
If I ignore it long enough I won't care as much maybe
What's funny is with all the GM pieces, there were no shims.
This isn't to scale, but my general plan
Long wall is the garage doors.
Red dots are lift posts.
Blue is a built in shelf wall.
Rest is the limits of where I can put a plastic wall.
Truck is 6x18, so should fit decently with room around to paint, put a ladder, etc.
Only hanging plastic everywhere except the garage door wall.
Bump out is for a table for small stuff, mixing, etc
Long wall is the garage doors.
Red dots are lift posts.
Blue is a built in shelf wall.
Rest is the limits of where I can put a plastic wall.
Truck is 6x18, so should fit decently with room around to paint, put a ladder, etc.
Only hanging plastic everywhere except the garage door wall.
Bump out is for a table for small stuff, mixing, etc
My truck isn’t gapped that well, it’s got some big shims in it.
