LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

[shady]

This is my exhaust..
With wood being built around it to fill the rest of the door opening
Forker moves a LOT of air lol.

And I bought a whole box of furnace filters to put in the opposing wall, in 2 places.

I have a 6000k 150' rope light that will ring the inside of the enclosure about twice.
Between that, the light coming through the plastic, and my spray gun light, I think I'll be able to see ok lol.

 

[shady]

I still think there's an issue with the hood shape.

This side all seems to follow decent

This side has the weird hump.
Back and front seem decent

 

[Babaganoosh]

Looks like you found your answer, wish I knew how to fix it.

 

[Truckman4life]

Make a carboard template of one side of the hood and check it to the other side and to the fenders. Should show where the issue is.

 

[Blue85]

With that kind of airflow, you could look into painting with a wet floor. They say it really cuts the dust. With enough CFM, the RH is basically the same as outside.

 

[shady]

I planned to wet the floor.
No idea how long it'll stay wet. But it'll start that way if I can.
Not sure how to do it without getting the truck wet though.
Thought cheap mop...

Trucks a biatch to get into position.
It'll be sanded, cleaned, then primed/painted the next day.

 

[imiceman44]

I planned to wet the floor.
No idea how long it'll stay wet. But it'll start that way if I can.
Not sure how to do it without getting the truck wet though.
Thought cheap mop...

Trucks a biatch to get into position.
It'll be sanded, cleaned, then primed/painted the next day.

Just a garden hose on low flow so you don't splash. You want the water to be enough to absorb any dust in the air.
We used to put down a film of water that will stay wet for a couple of hours

 

[76zimmer]

I know you’re jammin to get ready, so maybe leave the hood for another day after the trip.

Check the edge to see if it’s buckled at all. If it looks like a straight edge, slice and fill multiple spots to get it to flatten out to meet the fender. This may take a while, thats why I suggest leave it for another day(s).

I just use a box fan, it will clear out your booth in less than 5 minutes. Get your booth ready to paint in, duct tape the filters in place and make sure they wont be compromised, and make sure that dust on them is cleaned off, then run your fan for 5 minutes to clear the room, then tack and spray. What is your entry point to the booth? Make it close to the fan if you can.

 

[shady]

Got the adhesion promoter on the plastics today.
And that chit SUCKS lol.

Oh well. ,
But I have some sanding to do.
I had sanded the whole works with 180, then 320.
Cleaned it all and used a tack cloth on it all.

The stuff really didn't like the can leaning even a little, came out rough and splattery, and was super inconsistent so it'd be going along light and even, then just hog a bunch out all at once. Which you can imagine made runs and such hard to avoid
I'll get some high build over top of this as is, then sand to smooth it so I don't break through the promoter.

 

[shady]

I'm thinking about just plasticing to the main walk in and using it as my door. I'm going to make an over lap about 3' wide that I can get to the bar area through also.
I'll tape it when painting.
Should take about 4 hrs or so start to finish when I'm ready to spray.

That's just an estimate, but with a 15-20 minute flash time, and assuming 15-20 minutes to lay a coat., then giving some extra in there for mixing and piss breaks,.

I want to have it all set up ready, then come up in the AM on spray day, wet the floor, put the fan in place, seal the door, pull the filters out of the plastic and install them., then I'll be ready to wet the floor, final tack, and have all day to spray if needed.

I'm going to mix up some of the paint here soon and spray the back of the garage door to set the gun up and see how this paint lays.
That way I'm not going in blind on spray day .

 

[shady]

I know you’re jammin to get ready, so maybe leave the hood for another day after the trip.

Check the edge to see if it’s buckled at all. If it looks like a straight edge, slice and fill multiple spots to get it to flatten out to meet the fender. This may take a while, thats why I suggest leave it for another day(s).

I just use a box fan, it will clear out your booth in less than 5 minutes. Get your booth ready to paint in, duct tape the filters in place and make sure they wont be compromised, and make sure that dust on them is cleaned off, then run your fan for 5 minutes to clear the room, then tack and spray. What is your entry point to the booth? Make it close to the fan if you can.

View attachment 527163

I already moved on from the hood for now.
It's fine for what it is.
Only thing I may do yet, is pull the whole hood forward a little because it appears to be set back almost 1/4"-3/8"

That's a good idea on the hood if I can.
But I think the hood is pretty thick over there. Like it has a thick braced area I think.
I'll have to look.

 

[shady]

This was the stuff.

The smoothest area look like this.

Haven't pulled the hood out yet, but it should come out to about here


Bottom of the hood. Think it would be hard to cut/ bend...

And
More masking and sanding done today.
I'm also working on the other rear 7' mid bass pod again.
No pics yet though.

 

[shady]

And, apparently, I deformed the front fenders a little when I was working on the hood gap.

How it should look..

How the drivers looks now.

When I get the grille and such on, I'll see if I can make it all line up nice if it needs it.

 

[shady]

It's not looking good for power tour.
Not a huge deal. But I'm thinking it probably won't happen.

I can't go a whole lot forward without putting the door back on. Which I need bushings for.
I ordered the bushings, (oversized, so temporary stock one won't work.), last Friday and another set Saturday...
Haven't gotten them yet, so I'll be Tuesday at least.

But, beyond that, I haven't put my time in for vacation, because I didn't know for sure. And one of the 2 guys that are supposed to cover me, put in for the 6-10th. And I'm not sure they're going to let me now.
He covers 2/3 of my time off, and the other guy only covers a little.

IF I get the time off, and the bushings Tuesday. That gives me a week and a half, to finish prep, build the booth, paint it, let it cure a day or 2, and get it out and get some miles on the new trans to make sure all is good.

Just feels like a ton of pressure, and I'm trying to keep my stress low since I'm not out of the woods yet medically.
I'm going to plod at it, and if it happens it happens, but I'm not going to fret on it if it don't. There's always next year.

 

[Babaganoosh]

It's not looking good for power tour.
Not a huge deal. But I'm thinking it probably won't happen.

I can't go a whole lot forward without putting the door back on. Which I need bushings for.
I ordered the bushings, (oversized, so temporary stock one won't work.), last Friday and another set Saturday...
Haven't gotten them yet, so I'll be Tuesday at least.

But, beyond that, I haven't put my time in for vacation, because I didn't know for sure. And one of the 2 guys that are supposed to cover me, put in for the 6-10th. And I'm not sure they're going to let me now.
He covers 2/3 of my time off, and the other guy only covers a little.

IF I get the time off, and the bushings Tuesday. That gives me a week and a half, to finish prep, build the booth, paint it, let it cure a day or 2, and get it out and get some miles on the new trans to make sure all is good.

Just feels like a ton of pressure, and I'm trying to keep my stress low since I'm not out of the woods yet medically.
I'm going to plod at it, and if it happens it happens, but I'm not going to fret on it if it don't. There's always next year.

Sounds like a fair deal, don’t rush it and kill yourself.

 

[shady]

So..... I f*cked up.....
And now I have to fix it....

Take it back to bare metal an inch all the way around it?

I was looking at the new hinge pins a few days ago, and thought "these bushings aren't bronze, so they'll need lubed occasionally".
In stead of tapping the pins back out and greasing them, then tapping them back in....
I squirted them with break in oil that I use in the drill press can.

Today I notice this

Only thing I can think of is go out from each area an inch, and sand blast theworks to bare metal.

I can't imagine just degreaser or wax remover will pull oil out of primer.

 

[Babaganoosh]

Ehhh no big deal I would sand it out and go.

 

[76zimmer]

Wash w dawn

 

[shady]

Was worried that the oil is down in the pores of the primer.

Probably over thinking it though, knowing me lol

 

[Blue85]

Is it oil or silicone?