CK5
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LSX454 swapped 95 BASS burb.

Little lower, little cooler, bigger sounds.
And, I found I do have a similar problem to r3dd0g.

If I leave mine in 3rd and make a pull, it shifts right from 1st to 3rd. Skips 2nd entirely.
If I start in first and slap shift it, it all works as it's supposed to.

:dunno:

It didn't do that with the last transmission, last year.
And I haven't changed anything that I remember in the transmission settings. Only thing I changed was ran line pressure duty cycle up to like 5% or 0% across the board. Not sure which.

Changed nothing in shift points or WOT.
 
New 3rd brake lights going in the inside upper center of the barn door windows.IMG_20260907_143552336_HDR.jpgIMG_20260907_143556640_MP.jpg
 
I missed this hidden in the brake light stuff, what was your old time with the previous engine at the track? Track is stickier for better 60 ft and ET.
Didn't think about the 60'. :thinking:
I should turn that one on too. Maybe the 1/8 also.
 
That's as it sits. With me in it.
Might be 6500...? I'll have to re check it. :thinking:
Stereos almost 500# by my estimate.
Sitting over the rear wheels.
(Subs, box, cage that holds it, amps, batteries, amp rack, battery rack, and cap)
Planned to weigh it all this winter while it's out.
Then about 250-300# of deadener.
Add in the door pods and extra ALT. Plus many many feet of 1/0 wire..... I'd say the stereo stuff adds over 1000# total, to the original weight.

Google says it weighed this...Screenshot_20260909-182317.png
 
Yeah that would be a difference of .5 - 1.0 second in the ET and about 5 - 10 MPH in the quarter if you took the weight back out, would probably be in the 12s.
 
I can do the 1/8 mile in dragy, but it doesn't have the 60'.
Oh well. It'll go back to the track at some point.

As for weight. There is a plan in the works that will reduce it by like 150#. Maybe 300 after a few more possible plans.
But that's not enough to make much difference.
Maybe help a LITTLE bit is burnout ability, since it won't be as much over the wheels.
But probably not enough to make a real difference.
 
Take a data log of it to see what happened.
Plan on it.
I thought it did it once or twice before , but wasn't sure. When I did the dragy runs I could definitely tell the difference between auto shift and manually doing it.
 
In Iowa, the front doors was always 70%. So basically no tint.
They made it 50% in july.
I went 20%
Windshield is just illegal. But, there's a bunch of them running around, and some I've seen for multiple years. So I'm gonna try it.
Got a buddy that had 20 on his windshield for a few years, and never gotten in trouble for it. :dunno:

As for my weight plans....
My subs are two midline 1500 watt 15"s. That weigh 70+# each. Running on a 5k amp.
A single 21" has the same cone surface area that two 15"s have.
So I'm looking at a single 3000-4000watt 21" .
Which are roughly 80-100 pounds depending on which I choose.
And the box would be built different. And be about half the weight it currently is.

Plus, I'm going to go to a 90AH LTO lithium battery instead of the 2 huge AGMs.

The LTO technology seems to be the safest.

That part will save a Bunch of weight and at the same time, give me the ability to step up to an 8k or 10k amp.

In all it'd be a bunch lighter and more bass.
 
I can do the 1/8 mile in dragy, but it doesn't have the 60'.
Oh well. It'll go back to the track at some point.

As for weight. There is a plan in the works that will reduce it by like 150#. Maybe 300 after a few more possible plans.
But that's not enough to make much difference.
Maybe help a LITTLE bit is burnout ability, since it won't be as much over the wheels.
But probably not enough to make a real difference.
Rule of thumb is .1sec for every 100lbs. 13.3 sounds way better than 13.6.
 
Tint % is in 'percent of light passing through'
 

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