CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

M-1028 cucv?

Yep that would be a fine tire as well. Might have to put a 2" bodylift on the cab though since those are kinda tall but thats cool too because the cab sits at least 2" lower than the box maby even 3" or 3 1/2" low...which you can see from pic two or three. It would probly look beast with the cab even with the box.
 
Been lookin at a few body lifts online lately and all of them say that they wont work with the 1980s diesel engine trucks. They dont say why that is though,the best I can figure is that there must be too much stuff going to the engine that is hooked to the body. Im probly gonna have to go with a set of add-a-leafs to get that extra 2 or 2/12" of clearance. Plus it will revive the old springs and make them really stiff again.
 
I'm not sure, but it might be that they include a new fan-shroud, which doesn't fit the diesels.
It can't be any major issues anyway, couse I know people who has body-lifts on diesel rigs.

Suspension Lift-kits for 88-98 IFS also states they are not for diesel, but all it takes is to re-route the exhaust a little bit
 
SHOULD be. That said some 1008's were converted into 1028's and I'm not betting that all of them had limited slips installed in the D60.
 
I bought a set of low mile m1028 axels for my project a few months ago and hope that it's a limited slip d60. Is it abvious when you pull the cover?
 
Ummmm...honestly I'd just take pictures and then post them up here and ask.
 
The limited slip blows so dont get upset if it doesn't have one you'd be money ahead if had a open front and bought a loc-rite
 
more parts

Picked up a killer push bumper today. It came off an 80-something tow truck. Now I just need to get some steel to bracket it up to my cucv...they cut the old brackets with a torch to get it off. I also got a DIY diff cover for it. Soon I will have some peterson tail and back-up lights with a back up alarm. Just gotta wait for them to get here. Yeah the box thats on the truck doesnt have back up lights for some reason. Here are a few pics of my new parts. By the way the black diff cover is going on my cucv the red one is goin on my jimmy.

bumper-1.jpg

bumper-2.jpg

bumper-3.jpg

blk-cover.jpg

blk red cvr.jpg
 
So what would you have to do to convert from 24v to 12v. im lookin at a mil. blazer with a 6.2. gotta find out how much he wants for it

Tom
 
i did it and it saved me a bundle, i had an alt and a starter go bad at one time, i used one alt and went to the local parts store and got a 12v starter...and ajm times 2 on the write up..it works perfect.
 
i would leave it 24v. If it works, dont screw with it. Its not that complicated. The only 24v parts are the starter and batts, everything else is 12v..
 
That's my plan.


Then I'll switch when stuff dies.


That said...I dread the day I have a battery go dead or something and need a jump...unless I wander across another 24v vehicle I'm semi-screwed.

The 24v setup is neat...if a bit complicated...and works great...but for those of us without a Deuce and a half or other 24v vehicle...not much point in having it.
 
Update+pics

Hey everyone just updatein my post. The M1028 is running realy good but its takeing me 3 to 5 trys to start it now and its really hot outside. Once it has been runnin for a few minutes you can turn it off and barely hit the starter and it fires back up. My neighbor said that he thought my glowplug relay was probly bad so I went to the autoparts store and got a new relay but it looks totaly different than the army one. will it blow somethin up if I mistakenly hook it up backwards. If anyone has any input on why my truck wont start up easily anymore I would realy appreciate the help. And also I got some NEW PICS of the truck with the big bumper on it. Need some more steel to tie it into the frame in a couple more places though.

truck bumper-2 big.jpg

truck bumper-4 big.jpg

razorback big.jpg
 
Glow plug controller...the card relay dealy on the back of the firewall or a little doodad a little bigger than a golfball that's mounted near your master cylinder?

The bumper...ugh...don't take this personally but why the frakk make a heavy truck even heavier with worse approach angles? Sorry, not a fan.
 
Found out why the truck wouldnt start today. I got my fathers volt meter and hit all the electrical parts with it. The truck had power all the way down to the glow plugs so I took the relay back to the autoparts store and got a set of glow plugs. The relay they sold me turned out to be for a ford instead of a chevy anyway. when I started putting the glow plugs in I noticed that the fins that the wires hook to were the wrong size. I called the autoparts store and asked if they had any different glow plugs for the chevy 6.2 and they said that was all they had. The glow plugs that came out of the engine were numbered AC13G the ones they sold me were numbered AC60. They said their computer didnt show anything for AC13G. I thought up a few ways to make them work but decided to cut the connectors off the wires and crimp stake-ons ur whatever you call those things to the wires that will fit the new glowplugs. After about 40 or so minutes everything was hooked up good,got in it and it started right up. Was wondering if anyone else had to do something like that to put new glow plugs in? Oh and about the bumper I dont really plan to wheel the army truck REALLY REALLY hard,I was going to use it as a utility rig rather than a hardcore wheeler to carry my air compressor,generator,recovery equipment,lots of tools and parts and hopefully a welder soon. The most wheeling it will probly see is as a recovery vehicle for my jimmy and it never hurts to be able to push your other truck as well as pull it.
 
AC60's are the new plugs you want. Anything with a smaller number you don't.

They also aren't the correct plugs but as you found they can be made to work. Wellman 070 plugs are the official plug. They work nicely but they're a bit harder to get and costlier.
Errrr...did you convert this to 12v? If so then just keep using the AC60's.

The controller, if it's the little tennis ball sized thingy I'm thinking of, has a variety of uses. I think mine's official application is out of a Ford.
 
Top Bottom