andyblack
Registered Loser
Hey Rich, if you get a chance, can you measure your new trans/t-case from front to back? I'm thinking about using the same combo one day in my pickup and would like to know the length for future reference. Thanks!
CK5
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M1009 Standard Shift Build(The Greatest Adventure)
- Thread starter Richcz28
- Start date
An SM465/NP208 combo is almost exactly the same length as a TH700R4/NP208 combo. I know they will swap directly in place of each other and you can use the same driveshafts. I did this on my 1988 V10 Suburban.
Martin
Ok, I should be able to get that tonight.
Yeah I don't have any sound wires. It won't be a big deal once I figure out where my wires go. I'm going to use an empty fuse spot and put it on a power switch.
The v6 is pretty slow. Idk where those 300 horses are, but they seem to be somewhere over 5 grand and its runs out of breath by 6. I think the automatic eats most of the power. It can almost burn out with the traction control off, at least it squeaks and tries real hard. The flappy paddle shifters are the worst part. They are dangerous, because they move with the steering wheel and the delay is so bad. Coming into a corner I go to downshift before I get there and it takes so long I'm halfway in when it finally dumps the gear. Then when I go to upshift back out of the turn the shifters are on the opposite side of the wheel. New chevys make me sad.
I won't even start on visibilty, interior, how slow the top is, the side mirrors, and the back seat area, which is bad even for camaros. At least the 4th gens had cupholders.
Ok done ranting.
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c3/tunedport78/electricaltroubleshootingmanual/index13.shtml
I found this radio wiring diagram online. I think this may help a bit.
I found this radio wiring diagram online. I think this may help a bit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12337973/
I'm ordering these flywheel bolts. Seems there are two choices. Standard and metric. I am guessing I need the stand bolts.
I'm ordering these flywheel bolts. Seems there are two choices. Standard and metric. I am guessing I need the stand bolts.
Sorry Everybody I totally lapsed on this thread. I was wicked busy for a while and didn't get back into working on my truck until I made a big push to get it ready for the Rausch Creek trip. Everything is installed on the trans and is working well. I now have over 800 miles on the setup while getting 20.5 mpg on the highway. I got really lucky with the sm465 as it shifts cleanly and holds all the gears well. I am significantly slower in city driving situations then with the automatic, because of the spacing of the manuals gears.
I will ad pictures soon, right now I'm going to list some of the challenges I had to help others who are getting into a project like this.
Starter Motor.
The stock 24v 6.2 starter motor from the automatic trans will not work with the new flywheel. It will not physically clear the flywheel when you try to remount it. I do not know if there is a different starter motor made that does, but I used a cutoff wheel to clearance mine. Another solution may be to order a starter for a 6.2 with a standard shift and swap the aluminum mounting piece from the two starters. I don't know if this is possible, just an idea.
Body Lift and Mechanical Linkage.
I had to use a new longer bolt that runs from the clutch fork to the linkage in order to get the correct travel. This was an expected problem, and I was able to use an 8 inch bolt ground round on one end and threaded into place. I notched the bolt to turn it with a wrench and finding the correct pedal travel was easy.
Silly Throwout Bearing.
Ok so this was totally my fault, but I put the trans in once and had knocked the throwout bearing off the fork in the process and found it sitting in the bottom of the bellhousing.
Floor Hole.
I did not need to cut much for a hole in the floor. I left my trans tunnel attatched and cut the floor for the stock shifter hole. I have a 1 inch body lift, and there is no way you could get away with such a small hole without it. If you do not have a body lift you must remove the tunnel. With my small hole I still had to force the trans by a few inches of the floor.
Flywheel cover.
I had to trim the cover that came from the 350 sm465 setup heavily to fit the 6.2. One bolt is behind the oil filter and still has yet to be installed.
Some positive things from the build.
Ok I was asked about length, and I apologize, I completely forgot to measure it. I will tell you that my crossmember and driveshafts lined up just as before.
First gear is great offroad. My truck pulls itself along over rocks and stumps without hardly touching the gas.
I did not need to unbolt the transfer case from either trans and the new one works great, and shifts much smoother than my old one.
Oh and I now have the correct amount of pedals
I will ad pictures soon, right now I'm going to list some of the challenges I had to help others who are getting into a project like this.
Starter Motor.
The stock 24v 6.2 starter motor from the automatic trans will not work with the new flywheel. It will not physically clear the flywheel when you try to remount it. I do not know if there is a different starter motor made that does, but I used a cutoff wheel to clearance mine. Another solution may be to order a starter for a 6.2 with a standard shift and swap the aluminum mounting piece from the two starters. I don't know if this is possible, just an idea.
Body Lift and Mechanical Linkage.
I had to use a new longer bolt that runs from the clutch fork to the linkage in order to get the correct travel. This was an expected problem, and I was able to use an 8 inch bolt ground round on one end and threaded into place. I notched the bolt to turn it with a wrench and finding the correct pedal travel was easy.
Silly Throwout Bearing.
Ok so this was totally my fault, but I put the trans in once and had knocked the throwout bearing off the fork in the process and found it sitting in the bottom of the bellhousing.
Floor Hole.
I did not need to cut much for a hole in the floor. I left my trans tunnel attatched and cut the floor for the stock shifter hole. I have a 1 inch body lift, and there is no way you could get away with such a small hole without it. If you do not have a body lift you must remove the tunnel. With my small hole I still had to force the trans by a few inches of the floor.
Flywheel cover.
I had to trim the cover that came from the 350 sm465 setup heavily to fit the 6.2. One bolt is behind the oil filter and still has yet to be installed.
Some positive things from the build.
Ok I was asked about length, and I apologize, I completely forgot to measure it. I will tell you that my crossmember and driveshafts lined up just as before.
First gear is great offroad. My truck pulls itself along over rocks and stumps without hardly touching the gas.
I did not need to unbolt the transfer case from either trans and the new one works great, and shifts much smoother than my old one.
Oh and I now have the correct amount of pedals
andyblack
Registered Loser
Thanks for the update. I was wondering how it turned out. Glad to hear that everything lined up like that too. I've heard that the transmissions/transfer cases were the same length, but I didn't believe it until now, since I've heard a first hand account. Thanks.
Rich, it was awesome seeing your truck wheel this weekend. I kept telling Laura that I want a 6.2 now because I don't think I saw you touch the brake all weekend
Thanks Brian, I didn't hit the brakes alot because of the trans and the fact that the 6.2 never stalled even when I seemed to be getting bumped backwards. I was great to have Laura jumping out and taking pics you'll have to thank her for me.
Btw if you decide to do body mounts you may want to look at the ord 1 inch bl. The body mounts Were a lot of work on my truck and I'm glad I added those at the same time because it took really no extra effort.
Btw if you decide to do body mounts you may want to look at the ord 1 inch bl. The body mounts Were a lot of work on my truck and I'm glad I added those at the same time because it took really no extra effort.
I think that is what I am going to do exactly, thanks man!
Hmmm maybe... We'll see. Did you have any issues with adding the body lift and linkages being too short or anything?
I cut part of the bottom of my fan shroud out. The trans linkage has a bolt that needs to be loosened and the rod that connects slides free when you lift it up then re tighten it after. My t-case worked fine with no adjustment.
The heads of the bolts in the bed need to be ground off if they are tack welded in. I used an air hammer from below to pop them up after and for the ones on the front clip. I actually went out and bought an air hammer halfway through this job because my bolts were rusted in the sleeves. Some of my bolts I cut the crap out of with a sawzall and pulled them out in 3 pieces. One from the top, middle, and bottom. Also they are carriage bolts so they sit in a square hole, if you use an impact gun or try to hard to spin them, you will ruin the square hole. Mine are basically destroyed, but the new bolts are regular bolts so not a big deal.
The removal of the bolts under the cab require some care and time working in and out, because you don't want to break them off and cut holes in your floors to get them out.
The very rear body mounts suck to do. I did not drop the gas tank, and I do not think it would have made a difference even though others did. When you get there I can explain more what I did.
I would definitely plan on not having your truck for a few days if you get into this project.
The heads of the bolts in the bed need to be ground off if they are tack welded in. I used an air hammer from below to pop them up after and for the ones on the front clip. I actually went out and bought an air hammer halfway through this job because my bolts were rusted in the sleeves. Some of my bolts I cut the crap out of with a sawzall and pulled them out in 3 pieces. One from the top, middle, and bottom. Also they are carriage bolts so they sit in a square hole, if you use an impact gun or try to hard to spin them, you will ruin the square hole. Mine are basically destroyed, but the new bolts are regular bolts so not a big deal.
The removal of the bolts under the cab require some care and time working in and out, because you don't want to break them off and cut holes in your floors to get them out.
The very rear body mounts suck to do. I did not drop the gas tank, and I do not think it would have made a difference even though others did. When you get there I can explain more what I did.
I would definitely plan on not having your truck for a few days if you get into this project.
After that had to fix a broken center pin. I got 1 inch ez inches from diy4x with new ubolts. The order actually got mixed up a bit. The first time I only got ubolts, then I called in and they sent out the ez inches. The center pins that came with didn't fit my springs, so Friday morning before Rausch I was running around to shops seeking center pins. I had been sent 3/8s but the springs take 5/16s. The head of the larger center pin wouldn't actually fit in the axle hole. Not too big a deal as new ones were 2$ plus tax.
I still have some loose ends to button up. My shift boot isn't actually attached, and No reverse lights yet.
I did get the stereo installed. The cassette doesn't seem to work at all which is disappointing. The volume is also very patchy. One speaker will work sometimes, then both. It takes a lot of fiddling to get right. It does look good. I will have to get a pic.
Still on the to do list is to fix the floor.
I also just ordered a tiny tach today. I want gauges for temp and oil pressure also, but one at a time.
I did get the stereo installed. The cassette doesn't seem to work at all which is disappointing. The volume is also very patchy. One speaker will work sometimes, then both. It takes a lot of fiddling to get right. It does look good. I will have to get a pic.
Still on the to do list is to fix the floor.
I also just ordered a tiny tach today. I want gauges for temp and oil pressure also, but one at a time.
