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M1010 K30 -- Budget build (Back from the dead and considering 54" springs...)

On your shaft did you turn down the stock female splined part?

I'm going to have to turn mine down about 7mm

http://coloradok5.com/photos/data/500/IMG_0289s.JPG

No I left it untouched.
I believe my inner tube was about 42mm inside (1.65"), so all I had to do was cut the slots on the sides of the tube, to make it fit.

But I had to trim the larger diameter a little, to allow the outer tube to slip over it.

EDIT: this wasn't a very good idea, it got weakened and broke later.
I then welded the square tube directly to the fork part of the yoke instead, that was much better.

IMG_0290s.JPG


A Chebby truck being lifted by a John Deere. A typical Sunday afternoon in the vast majority of the Midwest ... but probably not so common in Scandinavia :haha:

-- A

No, here we usually do it on Saturdays :D


Nice work.:waytogo:

Funny how many of us live where this stuff is much easier to do and purchase yet we don't do it out of whatever lazy reason...and (another) guy in Sweden is showing us all up!:laugh:
(I'm looking squarely in the mirror here.)

No criticisms for cutting up a CUCV here. Done some of it myself.:D How's the wiring on that thing? Still the FUBAR original, US Army "fixed", or did someone get rid of all the goofy "ambulance only" stuff and put it to either regular CUCV or civy spec?

Thanks!
I still have the funny 12V/24V ambulance-only alternators, but it's only the starter thats still 24V.
The glowplugs are already civilianised :)
I have plans to move the batteries to the back.
When I do that, I'll probably convert it to 12V only.
 
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Your welcome.

The M1010's are notorious for their goofy electrical system and it's gremlins. Seems like there isn't a good fix other than "rip it off and replace it with regular CUCV or civy stuff".

My M1008 is still the 24v setup but as soon as something 24v (and expensive) dies I'll probably convert to 12v.
 
When you Fred convert to 12v be sure to contact me so I can buy your 24v starter :bow:.
I think they are a lot better than the 12v ones and I will never go to 12v starter in my truck.
If I get ahold of another starter I will do 24v starter on my K-20 too :crazy:
 
i bought a 12v starter for 110.00(2 year warranty) and it starts everyday perfectly with 2 800 cca batteries.... i converted my m1008 to 12v and it works great...
 
Hey whats the specs for the tubing for the driveshaft so I can go buy some. I was at the metal shop yesterday but I completely forgot what size tube. All I remember was that both pieces were suppose to be 1/4 wall to sleeve right...
 
Hey whats the specs for the tubing for the driveshaft so I can go buy some. I was at the metal shop yesterday but I completely forgot what size tube. All I remember was that both pieces were suppose to be 1/4 wall to sleeve right...

Ok, I'll speak "inch" this time :D
The outer tube was 2 3/8" (outer width) with 0.2" wall thickness
the inner tube was 2" (outer width) with 0.15" wall thickness.
(I'm not 100% sure that tubings are made in the same dimensions here as i America though.)

This might be a little smaller dimensions than what most people use,
but I'm quite certain it will hold up.

But as I said, I had to grind down the width along the entire length of the inner tube, by something like 0.04".
So there might be better materials out there :whistle:


Ronnie, I'll keep you in mind regarding the starter
 
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Hey whats the specs for the tubing for the driveshaft so I can go buy some. I was at the metal shop yesterday but I completely forgot what size tube. All I remember was that both pieces were suppose to be 1/4 wall to sleeve right...

From my research I think most people use 2" and 2.5" .25 wall

That what I got

I ended up grinding down the female splined part square to slid in my 2" shaft. Tomorrow I will press it in and then weld it and take some pics.

/hi-jack off
 
Now that you're saying it, that was what I read to.
But I took what I stumbled on, to keep the hillbilly spirit of this build :D
 
I'm pretty Europe has mostly metric steel sizes, and we have imperial sizes. We've run into that building stuff designed and bound for Europe...all the material is spec'd out in metric sizing (which is near impossible to get here)

Either way, there should be plenty of options no matter which you use.

Rene
 
Damn, I didn't think anyone would notice :o
I got a little too excited when I got the new tires, so I didn't have time to think :D
 
You moved the front hanger 6" forward correst? That was all you needed for the 64's? NOT THREAD JACKING

Just gathering info :)
 
Talk about getting motivated. I have had my m1008 for 4 years now mostly gathering parts... I feel it coming back, but will have to start a new thread pretty soon seeing as the old one has fallen into the abyss...


Keep it going, love the build. Although mine will be more of a street queen/tow rig than most, I cant wait to start tearing into it. Just got it out of storage this past Saturday morning.

Remington
 
How much up travel did you put on your d-shaft at ride height?

I only have about 4" of up travel from ride height.
 
You moved the front hanger 6" forward correst? That was all you needed for the 64's? NOT THREAD JACKING

Just gathering info :)

Yes, I moved the front ones 6" forward, but don't forget that you'll probably have to move the rear ones as well.
How much depends on if you have 52" or 56" now, and if you're doing a shackle-flip also.

As you can see from the pictures I also moved the crossmember forward, but I don't think thats necessary.

Talk about getting motivated. I have had my m1008 for 4 years now mostly gathering parts... I feel it coming back, but will have to start a new thread pretty soon seeing as the old one has fallen into the abyss...


Keep it going, love the build. Although mine will be more of a street queen/tow rig than most, I cant wait to start tearing into it. Just got it out of storage this past Saturday morning.

Remington

Get on it!:waytogo:
Start a new build-thread an post some pics, and you'll see the inspiration will return.
You just inspired me to work harder :)

How much up travel did you put on your d-shaft at ride height?

I only have about 4" of up travel from ride height.

I haven't limited the uptravel yet, but I believe I will set it to as little as 3-4"
For the flex you really don't need much uptravel at all, maybe 2" or something like that.
For rough landings it would be nice with more though :thinking:
 
12 volt con

fred when you do your 12 volt convertion the lessenaville altenaters fit right in I to have a 1010 did a 12 volt convertion all i did was throw 24 volt starter out put 12 volt in thow out rester on fire wall and put two 12 volt lessnaville alts on fit right in all done in about 1 hour ohya took blue box out the big one left the smaller one have not had a single electric promble since pully were same even the belts . i did the same thing took the box off fix back off cab but i put flat bed on the truck use it daily
 
Ok, thanks for the info.
But what is a lessnaville alternator, I've never heard of that?
I thought almost any chevy alternator would fit.
And what blue box are you talking about?
 
altenaters

a lessenaville is a type of altenater go to heavy truck store they will know might not be spelled right . the blue box is on the left fender it is what changed 12 volt to 24 volt for the top alt. only the bottom is sraight up 24 volt to feed the box on back .
 
Now I'm finally done with the crossover conversion :D

I got the pitman-arm from WFO.
It's a stock Jeep TJ/YJ-arm, machined for chevy DLE, and without keys in the splines.
It's 5.25" long and has a 2" drop.
I thought the superlift 1104 arm (which most people seem to use) would have to much drop,
and interfere with my stock height 56" springs.

The 2wd steeringbox I found, turned out to be a pre-80 version, so the hydraulic fittings didn't match.
But since my current box worked fine, I just swapped sector-shafts instead.
I thought that would be a PITA, but I was surprised at how easy it was.
Just remove the pitman-arm and the four screws on top of the box, and pull it all up.
(The shaft needs to be centered though.)


Here is how the steering arm looked when finished.
I had some help from friends to pull this off, thanks guys :thumb:



It's 6" long c/c.
It could have been made a little shorter to ensure lock-to-lock steering even under maximum flex,
but it sems to work fine.

The draglink I made from a 35mm (1 3/8") seamless tube with a 1/8" thickness.
(edit: which I later realized was way to weak :o )

I measured and found that two 30 degree bends with 6" between, would be enough to avoid hitting the crossmember.
I cut the adjusting sleeve for the stock drag-link in half, and shoved them in a litle in each end of the tube,
and welded around them.

This way I can use stock draglink ends, and not worry about finding new ones when they wear out.
But there is one downside to it.
Since they are so long I cant have the first bend as close to the pitman-arm as I would like.
It's not a big deal though, I only have som slight rubbing with the crossmember when steering fully to the right,
at the same time as the right wheel is fully comressed.
And that can be fixed with sime minor trimming :grind:

Some more pictures:






On the first test-drive I discovered that it's really wobbly on the road.
When examining it, I saw that it moves the axle side-ways before it begins to steer.
The biggest cause seems to be my really long shackles (8.25")
and that the bushings between them and the frame are probably shot.
I have been thinking about upgrading those bolts to 9/16" anyway,
so I'll probably make or buy some polyurethane bushings for it.

The spring bushings are all new stock rubber bushings, but they seemed to deflect pretty much as well,
What do you think guys, should I go poly there as well...?
 
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