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M1010 K30 -- Budget build (Back from the dead and considering 54" springs...)

Now the winch-mount is done :D


The lower braces got a little warped when I welded them.
So I cut them up again and tightened down all the bolts before welding it together again.
It's really important the surfaces where the bolts go are flat against each other, .


I also cut 1" along the whole length of them, both to save some weight and some groundclearance.
They are by far strong enough anyway.


Temporary mounting of the control-box

This will probably be a permanent solution :D

Some more random pics:






The angle-iron I've used is about 2 3/8 x 2 3/8 and 9/32" thick.

If I would do it again I would move it about an inch further back and a half inch up.
Then It would be completely hidden behind the bumper, now I'll have to cut some in the lower section of the bumper.

Next step is rewiring the rear lights.
Not something I look forward to :(
 
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so is it completely removable? looks good! now you just gotta throw the bumper on there
 
dfl701 said:
so is it completely removable? looks good! now you just gotta throw the bumper on there
Click to expand...


It is probably a little tight to remove as it "hugs" the frame from both sides.
And part of my front spring hanger is bolted to the bumperbracket,
so I would need to remove the springs to remove the winch-mount.

But it is definitely possible:D
 
dremu said:
So is that actually 7mm thick 60x60mm, is it inch stuff, or is it just kinda whatever you had?

-- A
Click to expand...

Yup, it's metric.
Just translated it for you guys:rolleyes:

I had both thinner and thicker material, but this seemed strong enough.

Since it's thicker than the bumperbrackets (7mm vs 4mm) it's important to grind it down at the ends, to get an even "burn" in both materials, when welded.
 
I test fitted the bumper tonight.
I looks pretty good from a distance :cool:


But as I had predicted, it needed some trimming and tweaking :grind:.
I think I'll try to reinforce it some, when I weld up the cuts again


(The wooden stick is all that holding it up for the moment)


Got a pair of pretty beefy shackles from the hardwarestore this morning too :pimp:
 
Some more pics:




I've had time to try it out pretty hard last week, when I went out hunting moose.
And I must say I'm really satisfied with the offroad manners

Here's the mandatory poser flex pic :D:rolleyes:


I soon realized the draglink was way to weak though :doah:


I straightened it out and reinforced it some as a temporary fix


Some of my friends got a little creative after a few beers the other day ;)
 
I started working on a hydro-assist this weekend.

I choose to tap the caps on the steering box
My tire rubs the box some, so the hoses would probably be in the way if I tapped the side of the box.

Removing the lower cap was a little tricky before I found an easy way.
There is a hole at the top where you can fit a small screwdriver and pry out one end of the locking-ring.
And after the locking-ring is gone, just turn the input shaft CCW (left), and let the powerpiston shove it out.
If you happen to loose the small steel bearings inside, here is a good guide to get it together again:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=570869
It happened to me, but wasn't as hard as I had thought.

I can't weld aluminium, so I couldn't weld any reinforcement to the lower cap.
Instead I used one of these:
(EDIT: which wasn't a good idea, the cap didn't hold up anyway, see later posts)

But now I needed to turn(sp?) the surface around the hole, so the washers sealed up properly.

What I didn't think about was that the cap also serves as a stop for the power-piston.
So I had to turn the nut down by 1mm and use a thinner washer on the inside, so it don't hit the nut first
(I turned the nut by 0.5mm on each side, so I didn't loose any threads)


I also grinded down the power-pistons end-cap slightly for some extra clearance.


For the top cap I used the same type of fitting, but without the nut, just to get the extra thread-length.


The hydraulic ram I bought from a local hardware-store.
It has a 1.5" diameter 1" rod and a 8" throw
I rewelded one of the mounting-ears to get the hose fittings straight up
Make sure it's completely extended when doing this, otherwise it will melt the seals.

I cut out the mounts from 10mm (~3/8") steel.
Yeah, I know, it's a little overkill.


I then made some steel bushings to fit M16 bolts instead of M20


Last thing yesterday I did some mock-up, to see that everything cleared.




It seems to work fine, so I spotwelded it for the time being.
 
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I finished up the hydro-assist this weekend.

To get the grease fittings more protected, and easier to access,
I welded up the old holes and tapped new ones on the ends.

I should have rotated this ear when I repositioned it, that way I would only need to re-tap the other side.

For the hoses I used banjo fittings at the ram ends.
And these fittings at the steeringbox ends:

That way I could easily rotate the hoses anyway I wanted, before I tightened it up.

Do not use pressed 90degree fittings on both ends of the hose.
The hose is so stiff, you can't line them up if they don't end up at the exact right angle.

Some more pic-whoring:D :








It ended up really well.
I don't notice any ill-effects, it's fast enough to turn the wheels even at idle, and it seems to be strong enough for most occasions
I also noticed some improvement in handling, the axle don't seem to move so much side-ways, since the ram turns the wheels compared to the axle, and not the frame.

Next step is probably to increase the oil-volume.
Stay tuned...;)
 
Thanks!
Now I just hope to get the time to do some serious wheeling, to try it all out.
I've hardly used the winch yet :o

Worst thing is, it's starting to get dark at 4pm already, this time of the year.

But all the more time for wrenching I guess;)
 
Before you beat on it too hard you might want to consider a beefier tie rod. The stockers bend fairly easy.
 
hmatiak said:
Before you beat on it too hard you might want to consider a beefier tie rod. The stockers bend fairly easy.
Click to expand...
I understand if the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton tie-rods are a little weak.
But I thought the 1-ton tie-rod would hold up pretty good...
It looks like it's made of solid forged steel, but I could be mistaken.:dunno:
 
Fred_M1010 said:
I understand if the 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton tie-rods are a little weak.
But I thought the 1-ton tie-rod would hold up pretty good...
It looks like it's made of solid forged steel, but I could be mistaken.:dunno:
Click to expand...

Just for experimental sake, try jacking the front of the truck up on the tie rod and watch how much it gives. You wont get the front tires off the ground. Not that this is a true test, but you will see how soft the steel is that is made of. Once it bends, good luck getting it back straight again.

If i remember correctly only the tre's are solid.

Stocker is just not gonna handle the 42's.
 
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