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M1028- [under new management]

got a slider put in this afternoon. Marty, I couldn't get yours to work, but I did use the seal you gave me. Thanks again.

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got a slider put in this afternoon. Marty, I couldn't get yours to work, but I did use the seal you gave me. Thanks again.
How do those sliding windows come out? I've been wanting to do that, but I need to figure out how they are removed/installed.


As I ponder about this more though, I'm beginning to wonder if this much angle on the short shaft puts me in CV territory, possibly killing my "off the shelf parts" goal.

Rear shaft section is currently 2'6" from center to center if anybody has any bright ideas. I could wire EDM out a "slip yoke eliminator" with a flange to fit on the rear slip shaft, then maybe run a k5 rear shaft (dont know length) if they come with CVs... I don't mind having to shorten and customize the front section, as it's unlikely that it will get injured.

All my joints are currently 1350s. I guess it wouldn't be the end of the world if I had to carry a spare conversion joint in my glove box if I could make a k5 shaft work..

I had assumed you already had a 2-piece rear shaft. I forgot some pickups don't. I think overall it's a great idea and virtually eliminates the need for an SYE kit. I wouldn't run a suburban or longbed truck (or anything longer) without a 2pc shaft.

On my crewcab I'm planning to relocate the carrier bearing so that I can put the shaft going down to the axle at the same angle it was in my K5. My K5 had the rear axle moved back 4" and an SYE, so it wasn't the factory angle. However it seemed to be a good angle for minimal vibration and didn't seem to get damaged except for way down by the axle yoke; no amount of angle is going to help that.

IIRC, my rear shaft on the K5 is 45" at ride height. I am running 1410 joints FWIW.
 
Mine is a bit shorter at 30 inches. Thanks for the info- pardon me if I missed it, but do you have to run a CV joint out back or does the 1410 give you the clearance you need? Also, even though it's not really pertinent, did you get your 4 inches of extra wheelbase by flipping 56s from front to rear? I've always wanted to try that, and would like to see some pics if that's the case.

I wouldn't really mind having to run a 1410 as I think it would be easier than figuring out a CV.. but I think my rear shaft might just be way too short to ever hope for any reliability. guess I'll run it until I break it. Definitely needs the bugs worked out still.


In other news I ordered this:
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/AWCOMP.html

I was going to write up a program and CNC plasma cut one out myself but this had all the bushings and hardware and I think it will be much easier this way.

Tuttle is getting closer :)
 
Those windows just basically push out from the inside out. Use a long piece of rope that fits into the rubber all the way around and pull through the inside and it will pull the rubber over the lip.
 
You better not puss out on Tuttle, Mike! It would be nice to get your traction bar done in time for it, but with how long Marty has been waiting for his parts they probably won't get here in time.
 
Does anyone else need that slider down there? If not, I'lll take it back sometime.

Martin
 
Red sounded interested, but I think everything he has already has a slider in it. he was talking about making some back-of-truck-cab-bolt-onto-k5-body thing someday. I've seen them before... doesn't sound like it's going to be anytime soon.

What parts are you waiting for? The guy at Ruff Stuff said he'd ship my stuff out today, so hopefully there aren't any troubles....


Which brings me to ask something of you fine folks. As far as my traction bar goes, I'd like to do something like the fine picture below, to get the bars closer to the driveshaft for a little protection. Is this retarded? The tube is going to be thick 1.25 DOM, so I can't feature I'm putting that much of a weak point in it.

I've never seen a traction bar like this and there's probably a reason for that.. But I at least want to ask. All I have is a NA 6.2..

I get that a straight tube would be stronger, but wouldn't this be strong enough? The side view would be triangulated just like every other bar in the world.

photo.JPG
 
Miatas have a bar like that. Of course that is a miata.
Red needs to use a dodge back window like I f$$$$$$ told him. I tried to get him to by that fiberglass one off here but he turned up his nose. Doesn't matter it has taken him 6 months plus to get even close to a BBC in his k10 he will never get that blazer done and I will just use it to hunt coons out of.
 
What is the significance of a dodge window?

Also turns out that muffler is a dual 3 in, single 3 out. Kind of excessive for my needs, but you can't beat free. I'll bring those wheels tomorrow BTW.
 
the window is smaller so you have more room to bolt it to the back of the cab.
 
If Red wants it, he can have it.

As for Ruff Stuff, I am still waiting on my traction bar kit to show up.

Martin
 
I just called Ruff Stuff. They said that they were waiting on one part that was suppose to show up tomorrow, so it should ship out tomorrow afternoon or Wednesday. I am guessing my parts I ordered from ORD are in my mail box....

Martin
 
what part is so hard for them to come by? I just got my shipping confirmation email with a trackin number in it a few minutes ago.
 
Mine is a bit shorter at 30 inches. Thanks for the info- pardon me if I missed it, but do you have to run a CV joint out back or does the 1410 give you the clearance you need? Also, even though it's not really pertinent, did you get your 4 inches of extra wheelbase by flipping 56s from front to rear? I've always wanted to try that, and would like to see some pics if that's the case.

Yes I ran 56s "backwards" in the K5. I'll look for good pics. If you want to look thru my photobucket you can use the link in my sig. The pics of the swap are in an album called "Winter Build 2006".

I have 1410 at both ends of the shaft, no CV. Before the SYE, I had a 1350 at the tcase for the slip yoke. With the 1350 I had to run a limit strap but with 1410 at both ends I didn't need it anymore.

I also run a front shaft with straight 1410, no CV.
 
Thanks for the info I'll look into that stuff. I threw my current rear shaft combo together to get it ready for memorial day and I still have some tinkering to do to it before I'm confident with it, but I'm 99% sure the 1350s are bad juju in my setup. hopefully theyll get me through the weekend in question though.
 
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