CK5 Network
Become a member of the largest online community for Chevy K5 Blazer, Suburban and C/K series truck owners!

Sell the Cadi? Sell the Cutty?

  • Cutty

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Cadi

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Neither

    Votes: 1 33.3%
  • Both

    Votes: 2 66.7%

  • Total voters
    3

KSSIII

Registered Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2016
Posts
63
Reaction score
19
Location
St Paul MN
Hello All, the names Kris and I'm beginning my dream truck project.
Ku3X5Yj.jpg

Red Jimmy is for sale, The M1009 is going to be my lab rat apparently it's name is Mandarb "Not sure if I like it? but thats its name. Wish I knew the unit it came form."

Rough Drafts 2013
afcrrbC.jpg
q75lqJt.jpg

Lots of plans for this bad boy

-Tranny swap. The tranny is shot. Planning to start of with a 4speed manual (Get Donor Truck)

-Body work. this ones a walk in the park and its a Minnesota truck! I think. Minor stuff, cutting out rust, rust convert/prime/seal then covering the wheel wells with fender flares. Floors need some minor patching. Rockers need some patches, reinforce around the doors/body mounts. patch up the tailgate or replace, they all seem to rust in the same areas, bottom center and around each corner on the top. But the Frame is Solid! (And I got the flares, got them before I even imagined owning a K5)

-73 front clip swap (Already got fenders)

-Full convertible top conversion (already got a top)

-A little modernizing. LED lighting headlights, tailights.

-Maximize efficiency and dependability of the 6.2

-Budget turbo kit (Still researching this topic)

-New Exhaust

-off grid gear Solar panels, inverters, batteries, cargo racks, breakdown gear

-Interior restore

-Sweet paintjob, Bedliner and Metallic Blue


Lift?
New Axels?
Bigger Tires? Maybe

Hopefully i can get to them all since now I'm downsizing to Two projects and selling everything else



RIP Dreams of the past
Before
dnnUA1i.jpg

EqqfP9k.jpg

After
 

campfire

Adventure is out there!
Premium Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2013
Posts
25,363
Reaction score
14,660
Location
Northwoods Wisconsin / da U.P.
Cool starting point. I have a few questions/comments.

1, the drawings are really nicely done.
2, are you ditching the front CUCV gear when you switch the front clip? I'd be happy to take the brushguard off your hands. ;)
3, a convertable CUCV will definitely turn heads.
4, while modernizing the lights, don't forget the dashboard backlights!
5, replacing the injectors may be a good idea if you are aiming for efficiency.
6, a 6.5TD turbine setup is a bolt-on affair for a non-AC civilian truck. For yours you will want to relocate the second battery (perhaps right back over to the driver side where it normally goes), and then the parts will bolt on easily. This can be done very cheaply.
7, wait to redo the exhaust until you have your turbine setup. :D
8, converting to 12V may or may not be worth your time (only the starter and GP array run on 24V), but it is worth your time to convert the GPs to 12V either way. In stock form they burn out in a daisy chain as each failure raises the voltage for the remaining plugs. In civilian trucks they're all in parallel and do not have this problem.
 

F.S.F.W

1 ton status
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Feb 9, 2016
Posts
10,624
Reaction score
12,526
Location
Douglas Wyoming
That caddy is sweet! Good luck with this build! You will find a lot of great info from the guys on here!
 

campfire

Adventure is out there!
Premium Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2013
Posts
25,363
Reaction score
14,660
Location
Northwoods Wisconsin / da U.P.
-off grid gear Solar panels, inverters, batteries, cargo racks, breakdown gear

...

Lift?
New Axels?
Bigger Tires? Maybe

I'm also curious to know what your end goal is for the truck, as it sounds like an awesome camping setup. :thumb: If so, you might be a good addition to the annual U.P. overlanding trips when you get it running. :D

As for the lift/axles/tire question, you're going to hafta pick a defined goal and aim for it if you want to wind up with an efficient and effective rig. The combination of gears/tires/tranny that you pick can make the rig powerful, gutless, or miserable. If you change your mind halfway through the process, you may not be happy with the result. If you switch to new axles with a lower gearing, you may find yourself wanting O/D and deciding that the 465 swap was a bad idea. Or if you decide you want 35" tires you may decide that the truck is gutless on 3.08s. These things should be decided together rather than doing each one separately.

Also, the M1009s came stock with 1/2-ton 8.5" ten-bolt axles containing GM's "Gov-lock" traction aid. This is a locker that engages only after one wheel starts slipping. It's a pretty neat idea, but in practice, the shock loading tends to make the carriers fragment on these 8.5" Gov-lock units (the 9.5" and 10.5" units are less problematic). If durability is your goal, the Gov-lock is a liability, especially if you want larger tires. You can run it until it blows (which may or may not happen soon), you can replace the carrier with something else, or you can swap a different axle in. Lots of options here, but I wanted to make sure you were aware of the issues that many folks have run into with these axles (including myself twice!).
 

KSSIII

Registered Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2016
Posts
63
Reaction score
19
Location
St Paul MN
Cool starting point. I have a few questions/comments.

1, the drawings are really nicely done.
2, are you ditching the front CUCV gear when you switch the front clip? I'd be happy to take the brushguard off your hands. ;)
3, a convertable CUCV will definitely turn heads.
4, while modernizing the lights, don't forget the dashboard backlights!
5, replacing the injectors may be a good idea if you are aiming for efficiency.
6, a 6.5TD turbine setup is a bolt-on affair for a non-AC civilian truck. For yours you will want to relocate the second battery (perhaps right back over to the driver side where it normally goes), and then the parts will bolt on easily. This can be done very cheaply.
7, wait to redo the exhaust until you have your turbine setup. :D
8, converting to 12V may or may not be worth your time (only the starter and GP array run on 24V), but it is worth your time to convert the GPs to 12V either way. In stock form they burn out in a daisy chain as each failure raises the voltage for the remaining plugs. In civilian trucks they're all in parallel and do not have this problem.

1. Thankyou, It's always good to have a vision going
2. I'am probabley not going to keep the brushguard, If i can get it to you I'd let you have it
3. Oh yeah it would be fun for summer cruising
4. might even go digital
5. I will add that to the to-do list
6. This will most likely be my next big project after the manual swap might have to find another donor truck. I don't know what internal upgrades I need yet but it's definatly something I'd like to do soon
7. Agreed
8. Also added to the list
 

KSSIII

Registered Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2016
Posts
63
Reaction score
19
Location
St Paul MN
I'm also curious to know what your end goal is for the truck, as it sounds like an awesome camping setup. :thumb: If so, you might be a good addition to the annual U.P. overlanding trips when you get it running. :D

As for the lift/axles/tire question, you're going to hafta pick a defined goal and aim for it if you want to wind up with an efficient and effective rig. The combination of gears/tires/tranny that you pick can make the rig powerful, gutless, or miserable. If you change your mind halfway through the process, you may not be happy with the result. If you switch to new axles with a lower gearing, you may find yourself wanting O/D and deciding that the 465 swap was a bad idea. Or if you decide you want 35" tires you may decide that the truck is gutless on 3.08s. These things should be decided together rather than doing each one separately.

Also, the M1009s came stock with 1/2-ton 8.5" ten-bolt axles containing GM's "Gov-lock" traction aid. This is a locker that engages only after one wheel starts slipping. It's a pretty neat idea, but in practice, the shock loading tends to make the carriers fragment on these 8.5" Gov-lock units (the 9.5" and 10.5" units are less problematic). If durability is your goal, the Gov-lock is a liability, especially if you want larger tires. You can run it until it blows (which may or may not happen soon), you can replace the carrier with something else, or you can swap a different axle in. Lots of options here, but I wanted to make sure you were aware of the issues that many folks have run into with these axles (including myself twice!).

Thanks for the heads up. But, Yeah I'm not even sure if I want to lift it, it's just something I might do a few year down, getting the gearing, axels, etc sounds like a lot of time, money and decresing of thetruck integrity.
I'm also curious to know what your end goal is for the truck, as it sounds like an awesome camping setup. :thumb: If so, you might be a good addition to the annual U.P. overlanding trips when you get it running. :D

As for the lift/axles/tire question, you're going to hafta pick a defined goal and aim for it if you want to wind up with an efficient and effective rig. The combination of gears/tires/tranny that you pick can make the rig powerful, gutless, or miserable. If you change your mind halfway through the process, you may not be happy with the result. If you switch to new axles with a lower gearing, you may find yourself wanting O/D and deciding that the 465 swap was a bad idea. Or if you decide you want 35" tires you may decide that the truck is gutless on 3.08s. These things should be decided together rather than doing each one separately.

Also, the M1009s came stock with 1/2-ton 8.5" ten-bolt axles containing GM's "Gov-lock" traction aid. This is a locker that engages only after one wheel starts slipping. It's a pretty neat idea, but in practice, the shock loading tends to make the carriers fragment on these 8.5" Gov-lock units (the 9.5" and 10.5" units are less problematic). If durability is your goal, the Gov-lock is a liability, especially if you want larger tires. You can run it until it blows (which may or may not happen soon), you can replace the carrier with something else, or you can swap a different axle in. Lots of options here, but I wanted to make sure you were aware of the issues that many folks have run into with these axles (including myself twice!).

I guess im just putting together what is in my vison the perfect K5, but off grid capability or a camping setup is also in the plan. I do plan on taking this truck on road trips when its all said and done
 

campfire

Adventure is out there!
Premium Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2013
Posts
25,363
Reaction score
14,660
Location
Northwoods Wisconsin / da U.P.
6. This will most likely be my next big project after the manual swap might have to find another donor truck. I don't know what internal upgrades I need yet but it's definatly something I'd like to do soon

Depends on how much boost pressure you want to run. There are a number of folks running 10psi with no internal upgrades, but you won't want to run higher pressures. Unlike most boosted engines, the 6.2 has a 21.5:1 compression ratio (The boosted 6.5 runs 18:1 and the 6BT typically runs 17:1), so the pressure multiplies more than it would in a typical factory boosted engine. No running 30 psi in a 6.2, the head gaskets blow out sideways. The GM 6.5 engine is based on the 6.2. Externally they are the same, the accessories all swap, and the internal workings are very similar. Basically they reworked their old design to accept boost and make more power. As such, much of the new tech bolts on to the older 6.2 engines if you want the upgrades (increased cooling, serpentine setup, turbocharger, etc.). Your M1009 has a second ground-isolated alternator mounted where the A/C compressor would typically go.
 

campfire

Adventure is out there!
Premium Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2013
Posts
25,363
Reaction score
14,660
Location
Northwoods Wisconsin / da U.P.
Thanks for the heads up. But, Yeah I'm not even sure if I want to lift it, it's just something I might do a few year down, getting the gearing, axels, etc sounds like a lot of time, money and decresing of thetruck integrity.


I guess im just putting together what is in my vison the perfect K5, but off grid capability or a camping setup is also in the plan. I do plan on taking this truck on road trips when its all said and done

Yes, modifications burn time and money. And as I mentioned in the other thread, regearing will cost you cruising happiness, but 33s on the stock axles will be a pretty happy combination. I personally would swap a different axle or carrier in the rear, but that's just because I've already been through 2 Gov-lock failures. Yours may or may not last a long time.

And road trips = happy times. :D
 

KSSIII

Registered Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2016
Posts
63
Reaction score
19
Location
St Paul MN
Yes, modifications burn time and money. And as I mentioned in the other thread, regearing will cost you cruising happiness, but 33s on the stock axles will be a pretty happy combination. I personally would swap a different axle or carrier in the rear, but that's just because I've already been through 2 Gov-lock failures. Yours may or may not last a long time.

And road trips = happy times. :D

The donor truck has a dana 44 and a chevy 12bolt . I'm thinking of swapping those in also. gearing is still around 3.08 I think. dothe 12 bolts have gov-lock?
 

campfire

Adventure is out there!
Premium Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2013
Posts
25,363
Reaction score
14,660
Location
Northwoods Wisconsin / da U.P.
The donor truck has a dana 44 and a chevy 12bolt . I'm thinking of swapping those in also. gearing is still around 3.08 I think. dothe 12 bolts have gov-lock?

I don't think so, I think the older trucks came with either an Eaton posi or open diff. But I'm not 100% sure of that. But pull the cover and check the carrier type and gear ratio before you get too carried away. :rolleyes:

Does the donor truck have an RPO sheet showing which options it came with? That would also tell you what the truck originally had.
 

KSSIII

Registered Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2016
Posts
63
Reaction score
19
Location
St Paul MN
I don't think so, I think the older trucks came with either an Eaton posi or open diff. But I'm not 100% sure of that. But pull the cover and check the carrier type and gear ratio before you get too carried away. :rolleyes:

Does the donor truck have an RPO sheet showing which options it came with? That would also tell you what the truck originally had.
Will do, Im checking out the truck this weekend
 

KSSIII

Registered Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2016
Posts
63
Reaction score
19
Location
St Paul MN
Finally got my donor truck, these path few months have just been hell financially and everything else but I got it! Took this weekend and got the pedals swapped over just need to drop the tranny and transfercase buy a new clutch/flywheel. Also gonna transfer over the leaf springs, and maybe the cage!
F6HM4NJ.jpg
XYXegfP.jpg

Also managed to sell the Red K5 and the Cadi
 

KSSIII

Registered Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2016
Posts
63
Reaction score
19
Location
St Paul MN
Some updates on the swap

Got the pedals swapped (Piece of cake)
Just had to remove the steering column( disconnect all electrical connections/2 bolts under gauges/bolts on interior fire wall/ two bolts holding up column on exterior firewall/ and 1 bolt connecting the shaft.
Pedals were 4 bolts/clutch/pedal clips/ retainer

dont remember all the wrench/socket sizes. pretty much stuck my hand in a bucket and hoped I had the right one
0wSVN4f.jpg

Lowered the transmissions
Remove drive shafts 4 bolts at each ujoint
remove spedo and electrical connectors
remove tranny lines

Auto
transfercase( disconnected 6 bolts connecting the tranny and transfercase/ unbolted crossmember/ proped up tranny/ pulled it back a bit/ lowered it
Tranny( disconnected flywheel 6 bolts? just had to make sure the torque converter spun freely/ bellhousing bolts 6? pulled it back a bit and lowered it.
2kgp2pT.jpg
WHfaV6u.jpg

Manual
Just took down the tranny and the transfercase as one( disconnected 4 bolts on bellhousing/ proped up and unbolted crossmembers. pulled back to clear shaft)

To lower everything I used one hydrallicjack, a scissor jack and some jackstands. I wouldnt recomend using my meathod
SOUbUdM.jpg
lTLeQ0L.jpg

Now im cleaning up the sm465/205 and preparing it


gonna get the flywheel/clutch and bellhousing in tomorrow hopefully
also gonna clean the rear of the engine and fix any leaks i can find while im there

These are not fun to move around
AZ5sDeI.jpg
 

tRustyK5

Big meanie
Staff member
Super Moderator
Moderator
GMOTM Winner
Author
Joined
Jul 23, 2000
Posts
39,924
Reaction score
8,506
Location
E-town baby!
12 bolt truck rears got Gov Locks too. The car 12 bolts got the clutch type limited slip diffs. Pull the cover off, you'll see the cuckoo clock crap in there...
 

KSSIII

Registered Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2016
Posts
63
Reaction score
19
Location
St Paul MN
Here is the Sm465/205, It was from a mud truck. which was my last resort
9nNCEKo.jpg

Needs a new rear seal/ Im hoping the gears in side are alright, I did notice a hairline crack on the adaptor between the tranny and case nearer to the transfercase side which i'm a little worried about. Might need a new adaptor? Also noticed a small leak around a rod on the transfer case linkage near the adaptor bolt is there a gasket for it? is it a Pain in the ass to fix? its also right next to that crack which goes all along the top.
The leaking rod and a stain around the crack.
rXTQE3f.jpg
DeniTpJ.jpg

Transmission looks ok on the outside atleast
GmKxecl.jpg
 

KSSIII

Registered Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2016
Posts
63
Reaction score
19
Location
St Paul MN
12 bolt truck rears got Gov Locks too. The car 12 bolts got the clutch type limited slip diffs. Pull the cover off, you'll see the cuckoo clock crap in there...

Dang, The rear end on the mud truck is a 12 but looks like the guy put some work into it, if there's no gov lock i might swap it out
 
Top Bottom