is this a common leak( rear oil pan under crankshaft? I noticed some oil dripping while its running. The bolts seemed to have loosened I'm contemplating putting loctite on them.
Trying to pinpoint the major leaks, but it looks like everything it sleaking
That oil crud on the back of the block is most likely from that rear main seal leak, the oil is probably getting slung around in there and coating everything... the side of your flexplate probably has the same stuff on it, huh?
Thats true I'm going to have to get it welded, now just to figure out how to mount it ocrrectly so it wont crack again. All it had when installed was a plate mounted to another cross member underneath it.Back to the Trans and T-case. The T-case adaptor (racetrack, or figure 8 style) between the SM 465 and NP 205 are prone to cracking. There is no such thing as an acceptable crack. If it's cracked, but not broken it needs to be repaired. It's not a tremendously difficult job, but it is specific, and a bit time consuming to do it right.
Cast iron is finicky to weld without making things worse.
The SM 465 is nearly bombproof. The biggest issues with them are all shifter related. You could probably search here and find more info on shifter fixes...
I havent grinded it down yet, I was actually trying to figure out how much of the nose I needed to grind down or the whole nose? I thought the portion tip of the of starter was needed for the starter to function properly? Still cant see the pictures lolThat was quick progress.
Did you grind down the nose on that starter motor? The CUCVs came with an enclosed nose starter that is not compatible with the manual flywheel. I took a grinder to mine when I installed the flywheel. Yours looks like it has already been opened up.
Pictures here if you wanna see what I'm talking about.
They're both pretty cheap items and simple to replace. I'd run through all the gaskets and put new freeze plugs in, all of it is super cheap.
I havent grinded it down yet, I was actually trying to figure out how much of the nose I needed to grind down or the whole nose? I thought the portion tip of the of starter was needed for the starter to function properly? Still cant see the pictures lol
It wouldnt be a bad idea to run through all my gaskets, For now I should just do the rear main seal and oil pan gasket awhile the transmissions out. Then I'll get to the rest later on
For whatever reason I forgot that you had a 6.2...
I don't know squat about 6.2's... thought it was a small block for whatever reason.Hey, I didn't think about it last night, but the intake manifold on a 6.2 carries no fluids, it's just a set of air pipes. There can be no oil leaking from the intake on this engine, the intake gasket is downright optional. Sorry I didn't catch that last night.
"Right Stuff" is very good gasket maker (can often be used in lieu of a gasket), Sets up in just a few minutes, and adheres well. The failure rate is low, but it is a pain to clean off if you ever want to reopen the sealed surface. Keep that in mind and use judiciously.
I new problem has risen D: i dont think its getting spark. I checked out the "distributor" i have never seen anything like it, its vacuum operated? Im pretty sure i got everything reconnected under the dash except for what appears to be a ground wire that was attached to the pedal assembly. Normally id just connect the coil straight to the battery but i dont see no coil haha