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MaxPF's 6.2 build

So, you're thinking of the stud girdle like mudman83 posted up then?

Rene
 
Yeah, except a bit more elaborate. It will tie the two sides together as well. Frankly I think just studs alone make the biggest difference. They don't put a bunch of static radial stress on the holes like bolts do. Less stress means less likelyhood of a crack starting (this seems to be where the cracks always start).
 
Well, I just spent more money :deal:

4bb9_1.JPG


It's a NOS GM crank for a 6.5 turbo motor. It is designed for a 1 piece rear main seal, so I will have to machine it to be useable in my 2 piece seal block. This was the only option available for a new crank - nobody makes 2-piece seal cranks anymore, and the NOS supply seem to have dried up :( Well, hopefully it works out - there are still a lot of rebuildable 6.2 blocks out there, and a new crank is the way to go.
 
Where do you get stud girdles?

I'm sure I've read where guys have replaced the 2 part seal with the single. Are you sure you can't do the same? Nobodys mentioned any machining, just a straight swap IIRC.:confused::confused:
 
I would also recommend a good 2 micron filter. I have added on to my Dodge CTD and it is a nice easy change since its a spin on. It is much larger then the stock filter and filters much finer. I am now able to go longer without having to change my filter which is nice considering I drive 5000 miles a month. I got my filter from Glacier Diesel Performance.

A bypass oil system would be a good idea on a motor that you actually put some time & effort into. A bypass oilfilter setup will keep your oil cleaner for much longer. You can get bypass setups from many different people including myself if your interested down the road. I will be adding one of the bypass kits to my truck very soon. I really want to be able to extend my oil drain intervals to 30,000+ miles. :D

Harley
 
BKinzey said:
Where do you get stud girdles?

I'm sure I've read where guys have replaced the 2 part seal with the single. Are you sure you can't do the same? Nobodys mentioned any machining, just a straight swap IIRC.:confused::confused:
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You can get one from Kennedy or DSG, but it looks pretty weak. I have no idea where Mudman83 got his beefy-looking girdle - you would need to ask him. I plan on machining my own out of 1010 cold rolled steel.

I haven't seen anything on a one piece seal for 2 piece blocks. They are both very different as far as the seal area goes.
 
Hossbaby50 said:
I would also recommend a good 2 micron filter. I have added on to my Dodge CTD and it is a nice easy change since its a spin on. It is much larger then the stock filter and filters much finer. I am now able to go longer without having to change my filter which is nice considering I drive 5000 miles a month. I got my filter from Glacier Diesel Performance.

A bypass oil system would be a good idea on a motor that you actually put some time & effort into. A bypass oilfilter setup will keep your oil cleaner for much longer. You can get bypass setups from many different people including myself if your interested down the road. I will be adding one of the bypass kits to my truck very soon. I really want to be able to extend my oil drain intervals to 30,000+ miles. :D

Harley
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I had planned on doing that. The reason my crank and cam got trashed was because some debris got bypassed around the oil filter and washed into the journals. I plan on making sure that can't happen to my rebuild...
 
My bad:o I was confusing the rope and neoprene rear main seals with the one piece and two piece:rolleyes:
 
MaxPF said:
You can get one from Kennedy or DSG, but it looks pretty weak. I have no idea where Mudman83 got his beefy-looking girdle - you would need to ask him.
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I got the one that DSG sells and realized it was crap, so I bought some 4140 steel, copied the DSG design but made it 1/2 inch thick and (with the help of my dad) machined it. It did not take long and is much stronger that the .25"angle iron stuff DSG sells. It could be easily extended to the rear main bolts if you had extra studs. I did not and didn't have time to get them so I figured it should be good enough because I will not tow and won't be running a marine injection pump for a while. I think you need to get a new oil pan or make your own pan to do a full girdle.
 
so those have been "topped" by 10 thou...so if you don't need to deck the block how much does that lower CR?

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
so those have been "topped" by 10 thou...so if you don't need to deck the block how much does that lower CR?

Rene
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A close rule of thumb is 1 point per .010". These pistons should give a 20.3:1 CR on a block that hasn't been decked. The decks on my block are flat to within .0015", so I'm not going to have it decked. That should be a good balance between easy cold weather starting and modest firing pressures with 5 PSI of boost.
 
MaxPF said:
A close rule of thumb is 1 point per .010". These pistons should give a 20.3:1 CR on a block that hasn't been decked. The decks on my block are flat to within .0015", so I'm not going to have it decked. That should be a good balance between easy cold weather starting and modest firing pressures with 5 PSI of boost.
Click to expand...

Good info! So 18:1 pistons would be about .030" under stock then...

Are those pistons ceramic coated or anything like that?

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
Good info! So 18:1 pistons would be about .030" under stock then...
Click to expand...
No piston manufacturer (to the best of my knowledge) makes an 18:1 piston for the 6.2. Mahle's catalog doesn't even show one for the 6.5. As far as I know all 18:1 pistons are made by either raising the pin bore .030" (supposedly Mahle does this with 6.5 pistons on a custom basis for some high volume marine engine builders) or by machining the crown. Kennedy's 18:1 pistons are of the latter type, but rather than simply cutting .030 off the crown they extend the Ricardo cup in a rather unique fashion:

lowcomppist_lrg.jpg


They claim this is better than simply reducing the compression height, and I tend to agree. The dish is deeper (probably .060-.080"), but the underside of the piston is domed, and the center is the thinnest part (.540" on a Mahle 6.2 piston). This machining avoids thinning the center of the piston. They also claim it is better for swirl, and they are probably right. Kennedy's pistons start out as regular Mahle pistons, and they do the machining and then have the crown ceramic coated and the skirts given a moly dry film coating. The only bad thing about them is the $995 price tag :yikes:

Are those pistons ceramic coated or anything like that?

Rene
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The Kennedy's are. I'm not sure about the others; I think the Peninsulars have hard anodized crowns. Mahle does this standard on stock compression 6.5 turbo pistons. I'm probably going to do this to mine, since I'm not sure of the many different available ceramic coatings, and because hard anodizing seem to work.
 
Still going...

RIght now I am in the process of getting fasteners for the bottom end. ARP doesn't make main stud kits for the 6.2/6.5, and I need custom length outer studs anyway, so I am having to order a custom stud set from them. They also don't make rod bolts for the 6.2/6.5, so I will have to have those made by their specialty products division. I'm almost afraid to find out how much they are going to cost :yikes:
 
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